CarlB

I do not have an SVT but I think the regular Zetec and the SVT are the same. The sensor is in the block not the bell housing. The sensors are a failure point on race cars. The signal is a wave, and the wiring can affect what the ECU sees. The wires should be shielded. I would replace the sensor and if that doesn't do it, look into the wiring.

The original equipment connectors the car companies use aren't made to be taken apart very many times. Wiring just wares out on our cars quicker than an ordinary production car.

I believe you will find the wiper motor is the same one used in all the British sports cars. Moss has them. The wipers are moved through a cable inside a tube and that is different for different cars. In the late 60s the motor changed to two speeds and the earlier one I believe has been discontinued. Here is some information that might help. I downloaded this off the web and there are some duplicates. I did not want to use the Lucus switch that is made to work with the wiper motor. I used the wiring diagram marked Factory Five. That worked for me. Lucas windscreen wiper motor 75704.docx

I have a Zetec and I mount mine on the engine compartment side of passenger foot well. If you would like to eliminate the sheet metal filter on the exhaust side of the block Quicksilver Racengines in Frederick Maryland has a part to eliminate it. If you eliminate the block breather your engine can't have much blowby.

I can recommend a transmission place. He is slow but does good work. Hopefully he will not retire on us. Quantum Mechanics 315 Riggs Street Building A unit 3 Oxford, Ct 06478 203-463-8299

I think the brakes are fine, but they haven't been used yet. I had everything ready the end of July and have not been able to touch the car. My wife broke her ankle and is just now starting to put weight on it. I am actually going to take the car back apart to get the guy who put a cage on Bartman's car to put one on mine.

Powerflex makes sway bar bushing. They are not the ones Caterham uses, but they should make the bar work a little quicker.

I use a similar device to the one Croc is using in my shop, and I have one of these in my truck after spending $1000.00 in repairs to replace wiring. AmazonSmile: Loraffe Under Hood Animal Repeller Rodent Repellent Ultrasonic Rat Deterrent LED Strobe Lights Keep Mice Away from Car Pest Control for 12V 24V Automobile Truck RV, Rodent Defense Vehicle Protection : Patio, Lawn & Garden Both work

I respectfully disagree. 6 cylinder engines that rev up and 12 cylinder engines have a special sound to me.

I wish I could have been there to drive, but I also missed the live sound of the F-1 car. But I am disappointed we do not have a video of the BMW. As close to a V-12 Farrari as you can get.

Great video thanks for sharing!

These are for doing wheel alignments. The square part at the bottom is a scale (sold separately). The idea is you can eliminate any inaccuracy of the wheel, and access for making adjustments is easier. When you use string to set the toe you can use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tire for a little more accuracy. To scale a car, you need to at least set the tire pressures. A better method is to measure and adjust the diameter of the tire. Wheel stands are already exactly the same height. Most pro racing teams use this method. The ones above called auto dollies are not the same thing. They are for moving the car around the shop.

You are getting some good advice. If you can go to NJMP you will see everything. I believe it would be well worth it. I am 5-11 and 210. I do not believe you will have a height problem, but I would order the lowered floors. Sitting lower relative to the windshield is an advantage. Everything said about width is true. I would add that if you make it to NJMP there is a big difference between the leather seats and the fiberglass seats. I have both and use the fiberglass seats on track. The leather seats are very comfortable for me. You will not be able to drive the car in wide shoes. The foot box is small and probably the biggest issue. my shoe size is 10.5 D and I can drive it around on the street in street shoes. I wouldn't use wide tennis shoes. The pedals take some getting used to.

So, what is the big development that will be announced?

Here is the pin out for my ECU. I assume it is the same as yours. I looked around for the name of the company Quicksilver gets connectors from but can't find it. If you need some connectors, I will get the name for you. ECU Pinout Zetec T-2.pdf

Yes it is the intake air temperature sensor.

To verify, you are correct, here are two pictures of my connector and senser. This is just a throwing parts at it solution, but you might want to replace the crank position sensor and look at the wire from the sensor to the ECU. Those sensors put out a square wave form and are difficult to test. The best way is with an oscilloscope. It isn't a strong signal, and the wire can pick up interference. When you posted pictures of the engine missing with fire in the intake, that could be a timing issue on those cylinders. Is the overheating happening only when the temperature under the bonnet would be the hotter than normal? If that sensor or wire are getting overheated that could cause your problem.

I haven't driven a Ariel but I suspect it doesn't drive as much like a go-cart as a Caterham. I raced go-carts. The handling is heavily influenced because of the solid axle. You drive a go-carts of the rear tire. You drive a Caterham of the rear tire. Generally independent rear suspension cars are driven off the front wheel. BMW had a driving experience I got to go to. They had pro drivers as instructors. My instructor ask me if I had raced go-carts because I drove the car off the rear tire. Then he tried to correct my driving.

My wife of 53 years is do good. With 11 screws and a plate, I guess she has more titanium parts than anyone's Caterham. The 9th of August is a good and bad day. It is our anniversary and the day she had breast cancer surgery and her ankle put back together. So far two of the three turned out fine, I am confident this one will as well.

It is highly unlikely I will be able to come. My wife broke her ankle a week ago. It was set and the swelling is down enough for it to be operated on tomorrow. She doesn't see the surgeon again until the 24th. Missing two things I was really looking forward to. This event and going to Octoberfest.

There are two companies I know can help you. One is Quicksilver Race Engines (301-698-9009) Speak to Eric. The second is Franz Diebold (540-808-2918) Franz works on all the IMSA and half the Indy cars. He also does real motorsport quality wiring.

I hadn't looked for the computer and and software sense it was handed to me when I got my car. I found the computer and it boots up. It is a Windows 98 /NT computer, and the software runs Dos. I never messed with it because Quicksilver is around the corner from me, and they know how to use the program. I can't get in the computer because I do not have the password. I will get in contact with Michael Dougherty. Hopefully he remembers.

I do not know much about it, but my car uses a Pectel ECU. I have all the software to tune the engine and I think I have a manual, but I will need to check. I would like to learn something about it and would be happy to share.

Other than the pictures in the original post, the pictures are of my car. We both have very similar cars. If I remember Bartman's car is a 2001 and mine is a 2000. The picture of his engine from the intake manifold side shows the motor mount. It is similar to mine. I will have a better look today, but the problem appears to be the engine is not sitting far enough back. The exhaust side mount points forward as well, but not as much.

Here are the measurements you were looking for and some pictures. The first measurement is from the back of the cylinder head to the fire wall 8 1/4 inches.  Here is a picture of the motor mount to the vertical frame member that has the lower rear control arm and the upper rear control attached to it. the distance from the vertical tube to the middle of the motor mount bolt is 7 5/8 inches I never paid any attention before, but we were talking about cars with Vauxhall engines, here is a picture of motor mount holes that might be for those engines. I only have them on the exhaust side.