CarlB

Winding Road is a company in the racing business. They seem to be involved in all aspects of racing. They send out daily emails. I suspect I get them because I am a SCCA member. It is a good video, but what do we think the car is? I am not aware of any left-hand drive 620Rs. Check out the seats.

The part Croc gave you is the one I use in my 1999 Caterham with a ZeTec. It fits Ford and Mercury products with 2.5L engines from 1995 to 2004. The LuK part number LS0273.

You need to come see my shiny new paint!! I have a American car with backup lights.

Do you know the part number of the one you have now? The late 90s race version. I just replaced mine and I want to make sure I have the correct one. I installed the A frame first and had to use a lot of force to get the radius rods hooked up. The car is still on jack stands so I haven't put it on the ground to see if anything is binding.

I promise all new mirrors

Kitcat I have a feeling that outing in Colorado will change your mind about your Cat. I am looking forward to seeing you one way or the other, but hopefully with the Cat.

I know checking cam timing correctly is time consuming. With stock cams you can pull the cam cover and put the engine on top dead center. You can get close with a screwdriver in the number one spark plug hole and intake and exhaust valves closed. The back of the cams have slots in them. The slots should be in line and parallel to the surface the cam cover bolts to. I know it sounds different to adjust cam timing with a compression gauge, but it works. Generally it is the spot the cam will give the best low end power. This assumes you are close to the correct cam timing, but the engine ran at NJMP.

I do not understand what you mean by your number 1. Are you talking about the upper front suspension control arms? when you say rod ends are you referring to the Caterham supplied part?

The Zetec ignition system uses a waisted spark coil. The coil fires cylinders 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 at the same time. When 1 is on the firing stroke 4 should be on the exhaust stroke. From looking at the video the backfire does not look very violent, and the engine ran reasonably smooth. I do not have any definitive answers, but I would look at cam and ignition timing. If I remember correctly, you could not find any cam specs for the cams in the engine. I would adjust the intake cam with a compression gauge. Adjust the cam to the highest compression reading. This is out in left field, but do you know if your catalytic converter is plugged? Is it easy to pull off?

I need to think about your backfire. I will recommend you flush the cooling system with baking soda. Put about 1/3 cup of baking soda in plane water and get the car up to temperature. Then flush it. Baking soda is a mild way to clean the system.

I was under the impression fully charged batteries should measure between 13.3 and 13.7 volts when fully charged.

I will be there!! I was worried about the date because we are going to October Fest for the last weekend.

I find the seats JohnCH posted to be very comfortable. You should try them.

I haven't had a vender pay the import duty. My experience is like yours. I have had parts come from all the different services and different requirements at different times. I think it depends on how the paperwork gets filled out in the UK whether you have to pay. They have to identify what is inside and the value.

You might try Beachman. I think he has them.

Thank you for the help. I figured it out. The bell cranks on my car had been modified. The bushing in the center was not rubber mounted. It was solid. I did not realize it was a separate piece. Clearly it had suffered from over lubrication. I assumed that the through bolt would only tighten so far before bottoming out and the spacing of the components was designed to take up the slack but not bind. I looked on the Caterham web site and it looked like the bell cranks had a rubber bushing. Then I called Red Line and they confirmed the bell crank does have a rubber bushing.

One of the bell cranks on the watts links that locate the De Dion tube is binding when I tighten the bolt that holds it to the De Deion tube. I have had both apart and one is fine. I am confident I put them together correctly, although I admit I had to correct the orientation of the radius rods once. When I was assembling them, they both had some wear on the bell crack where the spacers that go in the bracket on the De Dion tube. Some people might describe this as wear on the area in contact around the through bolt on the bell crank. Has anyone experienced a similar problem, or can they suggest someone who might have had experience and I could speak to?

I own a Chevy truck and GM sent a survey. They want to know if I would consider an electric pickup if it went 300 miles between charges and there were plenty of places to charge the truck in half an hour. The truck performance was 0 to 60 in 5 seconds. I said no and the next question was would you consider an electric truck if it had lots of modern tech gadgets. I said no and that was the end of the survey that was supposed to take 15 minutes. I guess it is clear where GM is going.

Yes it is a DeDion axle. I do not know if it makes a difference but it is what Caterham calls the race DeDion tube. The hubs that hold the bearings and seals are cast iron, so I think they are production car parts of something. That you for helping.

When you were checking the torque did you use your torque wrench to loosen the bolt. Torque wrenches are not as accurate removing. The torque can change because of the friction between the bolt and the clamping surface. If it was lubricated you generally get more consistent clamping. Lubricated bolts have a lower torque setting. I would use a Allen head fine tread machine bolt. They are better than grade 8. Use a nyloc and if that doesn't work double nut the bolt.

Does anyone know what the rear wheel bearing grease seals are from? My car is a 1999 S3 Caterham and uses roller bearings. The iron bearing housing has to be a production car part. I took some measurements and I do not think they are Murkur parts.

I have been a real flake and done a number of things. I was in the tire business and as a spin off became a racing tire dealer and part owner in a race car shop. We raced formula fords mainly. When the tire manufacturers stopped pricing tires differently in different markets and the ability to make money on the difference, I got in the capital equipment business. First selling engines for a manufacturer, but most of the time as a HVAC salesman. That got me interested in energy projects and actually let me make a living with my education. I developed and reviewed projects for cost savings and showed how the savings impacted the financial performance of the building. I am retired now and comfortable. I have some simple advice. People will pay you to do something hard. Taking risk can be rewarding, but you better really want to do it. Invest in yourself. buy stock.

The tube end you have is not a flare and isn't intended to be used with a hose clamp. Late model cars use this type of connector and there is a fitting that goes over it, and a tool to remove it. Look in a Dorman catalog and you will see the different fittings.

You and Bruce are building an exceptional car! I have been thinking about making the cowl removable without drilling rivets, with the exception of the two on the outside of the body. I think I got lucky on the Classic carbon dash I got. It took some time to get it, but mine is nice quality. Sorry you have had problems after my good review. I have a disagreement with you about the Arch Switch protectors. I think they look good, but I am a R-53 MINI Cooper fan. Great job on the car.

What a great article.