Vovchandr

Yeah. I think it was over winter. I send the whole thing out. Was expecting to do the $100 rebuild but it turned out to be not so. They were very nice to deal with though. New manifold didn't have vacuum ports at all, but I specifically asked them to redrill them in case I ever wanted my IAC to work (so far I haven't even tried and kept them plugged). They said nobody really uses IAC on ITBs After dealing with my car I can't tell if Tom would be delighted or frightened to deal with another "sister configuration" to what mine was. To properly tune a car he wants a few things. He wants adjustible cam gears in place, wideband installed, datalogging strongly preferred and at least laptop properly working with tuning software for ECU. My car did not have a knock sensor but those help. Just looked it up: Rebuild was $1100.... dont recall if that includes shipping back.

Between the software and the throttle bodies take pictures of EVERYTHING and screen shots of "point zero" if you need to go back to it. Count the threads on the linkages if you have to. You want to have a "known good" to come back to. I know you said you already adjusted one, its still fine take measurements and counts to go back to this stage if needed. At least you know at this stage only one is "compromised". You're not screwed but this will be painful. I never messed around with this too much alone and let the tuner at the time try to set everything to a "good zero" position before continuing with tuning. Smart but scared the hell out of me and was lots of adjusting back and forth. You can use feeler gauges of even a piece of folder paper to measure the gap quickly as you're doing adjustments. You stick them into the butterfly to see if they all allow the same amount in/past them in the "closed" position. For what it's worth, fair warning I sent mine out from a running car to Borla/TWM to make sure they are fine and aren't a variable in my troubleshooting. They sell a "tune up" for $100. When they got mine they told me almost everything on mine was "beyond repair" and was needed to be replaced and so they did. I got back essentially a new unit by the time they were done. Also at some point in time might be worth taking them off regardless to make sure you dont have same issues as me. My runners developed a collapse in the thin metal by the gasket and were a problem on a few cylinders. Hopefully you dont have this problem but its good to double check. Also the mysterious flash out still happens on my car all the time.

Contact SoftBitsforSevens. I had a great experience and they make it to your dimensions Soft Bits for Sevens (@softbitsshop) • Instagram photos and videos

Well you're not an SV if thats what you're asking. In regards to the front being wide track or not we'd need an image of the top or your front shock but according to old images you're uploaded from the little bit I can see I believe you're narrow front end

I got little vacuum caps at a local part store or Harbor Freight if you need a quick fix To make them all match pretty well you'll have to go through the linkages sand it's a huge PITA. If I recall you have to start on Cyl1 (closest to front) and go back from there. You'll need the vacuum measuring tool I posted either here or elsewhere. Don't have an answer whether its proper to do it cold or warm.

Not a repost. I've never seen it before. Very cool Thank you

Yes (in regards to Wide Body chassis) Not going to take your sale topic on a tangent but for any buyer considering this 7 in NY, it being titled is a HUGE bonus.

Very very cool. Jealous of you figuring out the NY reg dilemma. Seems like everybody else has figured it out but me! lol (titled as a 2001 from NC) You might want to indicate that it's an SV for potential buyers as it's a crucial distinction and non owners in the market often can't tell the difference.

I see. You clearly have more confidence in your abilities than me. My adventures with MS3 ended when I put one into my NA Miata, (PNP unit) and the timing was completely off and that's where I left it ~ 14 years ago now or so lol. Runs on stock ECU Did not run on MS3.. Probably a very simple fix. Maybe I'm smart enough 14 years later to fix it? I'll be following your ventures and learning along the way. Very curious to what you'd put down for power with the ITB's. Sounds like there's a bit of legwork still to go in that department. Any chance of you trying to go all the way to NJ for USA7's at NJMP event? It's a great day. Might be a bit too far for just a visit without the car but still a blast to be a part of. Iconic event for any 7 owner. Participants even get to meet the "mighty @Croc " in person.

Gotcha. I'm only asking because I'm potentially going to have to redo my harness for my Zetec if I decide to go with a different standalone other than the Pectel. What are you going with? (sorry if you mentioned it, havent read the whole thread). Stock ECU and stock harness seems like it would be a pretty straight forward path.

What are the goals for this year? Get it running as is? Swap the harness out? Dyno it at some point in time?

Charlie Crowell

Detik - Detik Caterham Fitra Eri Melintir | Vlog Pertama Crewnyabapak ( Seconds - Seconds Caterham Fitra Eri Melintir | Dad's Crew's First Vlog) NO WONDER IT'S EXPENSIVE, THIS CAR IS CONTINUOUSLY HYSTERIC! MOBIL PALING EKSTREM YANG PERNAH SAYA MILIKI | CATERHAM SEVEN 620S 2022

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Just so we are all on the same page many 4 points have the extra one or two points that can be added, a la, Caterham On the street I never use the 6pts

Who knew that a "missed connections" thread here would come to a happy ending?

Options are limited if you want to be FIA In date for track days and dont like yellow. If you don't care for date this guy has been trying to get rid of his expired OEM for sometime in NH

See above. @dallasdude knows his stuff! Emissions only and was defeated before my ownership. Since then I've swapped to adjustable cam gears further making it useless. I didn't know my cam options were limited in this head. It is a mystique/contour motor. Is a Ford racing head worth the gains? My understand is that those are worth a couple of thousand on the regular. SVT motor is always an option in the back of my mind but from what I've seen between ITBs and new header most of the gains on the stock SVT are neutralized by letting regular Zetec breathe better so it might not be too much of an improvement in the end.

What would you recommend in my situation? For whatever the reason I appear to have a pretty low output VCT Zetec (VCT removed) with freshly rebuilt ITBs and good compression and leak down doing 135 to the wheels I'm considering going FI (I have a Rotrex Sc already( or maybe other bolton's like cams before completely giving up on it and going Duratec and cutting a new hole on the other side of skin for exhaust (already have Duratec too on standby) Tuning on Pectel unfortunately

You had more than one job? I feel like you were born an actuary.