Vovchandr

Compression used to be much better before the head gasket change, but I'm pretty sure it was at least done on warm engine last time. I'm not sure what you mean about cams "resting"? As far as Coolant Temps Sensors and temp charts I'm not sure how to proceed with that. I don't believe my ecu provides any temp charts.

Not yet. It's been in my shopping cart. Mike make the jump now, even though it seems backordered on the site.

So I've done a quick dry/cold compression test and got (front to back ) 150/150/180/180. Peculiar. Still have yet to do wet/warm test and leakdown test. Also question for the experts. Am I crazy to try to rotate the cams to match what they looked like before I changed the headgasket as seen in the picture above? Due to the backfiring I can assume the exhaust might be fine so I'll set that as a 0 and rotate the intake alone? Maybe rotate both towards each other slightly? I know nothing about messing with timing but still no luck finding anybody who's willing to take this on. I should be non interference so thinking of trying a wild card in meantime. Any advice? I'm essentially trying to dial in physical cam positions to whatever the ECU would be mapped to right (if the engine is out of sync with ecu right now?)

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tail of the dragon! halfway through our 2,000 mile road trip. part 2 of 3(?) Fairly certain he's a member but can't think of the name/find the intro thread or post. Tag if you remember.

The Caterham 7 - A True Driving Experience

Congrats!

Woah. Didn't know somebody was trying to challenge Morgan for the strangest front end

Ep 122 - 14,000RPM HONDA SUPERBIKE POWERED WEAPON // Shayman test drive

We Put 8 Tires on this Car to Make it FASTER

Introducing the Caterham Seven 420 CUP

Sorry to hear about the failure. Been there with witnessing wobbling fenders on the last few track days. The pictures I got showed that yours was riveted on at the front mount. Clever. I was going to glue it on front and back but will consider the same mount style now on front. Westermann advice was essentially "it should fit, if it doesn't it should fit with a little bit of mallet persuasion" so I did, then it did. Haven't mounted them yet, but might in the neat future. Yours look to sit higher than mine when mocked up but we shall see how it looks like in practice. I do not like the low mount (height of the front of fender from the ground) look and since this is purely aesthetic for me, I'll mess with it to get it right.

Unfortunate misspelling of my name or foreshadowing?

I should have a chance to dig into it this week. Still no luck with tuners at this moment. I'm leaning towards this being a primary timing/cam issue at this moment. I'll do compression test/leak down/ and exhaust gasses in coolant tests to establish a baseline. Cat is likely clogged or close to clogged so I'm planning to take it out. I have an OEM backup with a virgin Cat in place just in case I need to go back to that configuration. Primary question to all experts. This blacktop (Non SVT) Zetec is non interference. I should have no risk trying to use my adjustable cam to dial in the timing a little bit right? I know for a fact that the car pre head gasket change and post head gasket change has cams in different positions. They were not at 0 position before change and are 0'ed out now. I have a hunch maybe the non 0 configuration was on purpose and will be better. Car is misfiring/backfiring at cold and warm throughout the RPMs. I also don't think I go into the idle table due to me removing the IAC and having the ITB's stop on idle screw. I'll consider putting the IAC lines back on. I know it's unusual to have IAC on ITB's but thats how it came and I can't find any parameters in the tuning software to adjust the idle table or IAC at all. Here it is prior to taking it apart. Wasn't sure if it was intentional or accidental slip. (still honestly not sure) I'll go back through and use the suggestions one by one given here so far.

Major upgrade plugged the hole by roll bar

Aero screen here - Safety glasses, hat and airpods pro for noise cancelling or sound Seems to work even on the highway. Ear plugs or nothing at all if I get annoying with the ear plugs. Over a decade of motorcycle riding same way. Safety glasses when visor is up and pretty much never ear plugs. Helmet was sufficient most of the time. Ear plugs/noise cancelling aren't always ideal as they rob a lot of senses while driving. It's a very drastic difference to go back and forth between the two and a complete attack on senses the minute you take them out.

No handbrake on center tunnel makes it a 90's chassis at best unless race specs have something else going on. Not sure why they label it as 620r as exhaust is on the left hand side as well. Old headlight mounts also lead it to likely be a 90's car. Transmission is not sequential and most obviously like you said they never made a LHD 620R.

I learned that we need bigger nose cone whiskers if we plan to go airborne 😳 On a serious note, makes me consider track insurance more seriously, he glad I got a HANs and other safety

I'm bumping this because it's the first time I came across this thread and I personally found it invaluable. It's been a number of years since this post was seen as active and there are many new members that can have some key takeaways from this well documented experience.

Caterham R500 RC Office Race

Sons first time in a Caterham

I'm obviously not the best source to a solution as I still have my own problems, but one thing that jumps out at me is the needing to jump a healthy battery. That in my experience means a bad ground somewhere. Either at the terminal or elsewhere like a starter or a corroded wire. Throwing extra juice at the problem can help bypass a bad ground. Once started the bad ground should be an issue for the rest of the operation. Your backfire is likely unrelated to the battery issues but is likely timing related. I don't have enough knowledge to know whether a mildly bad timing will allow it to run but have it struggle to start? Are you ITB's and aftermarket ECU or regular intake manifold and stock ECU?

It can wait indefinitely! I was hoping to compare in person at the 7s NJMP event but unfortunately I won't be able to make this year. I was wondering if Westermann changed the design over the years as mine appear somewhat different shape than yours. Orientation on the lower ones definitely changed from 45 degree to 0 unfortunately. Not too happy about that. Do you know if you or the previous owner cut yours to go around the sway bar socket or did they come like that originally? Trying to figure out the mounting. Double sided tape has held fine for you? Unfortunate about the existing stay. Very curious as to how it would have failed in details. Although aluminum is quite a soft metal to be putting up with a lot of these forces.

Can you explain how yours got wobbly? Other than bending the straight arm I see no other room for adjustments here without cutting and rewelding the said arm. Are you hitting in height or width? Also while I have your attention, can you take a top down picture of your wish bone aeros? As such

After a back and forth with Westermann they said that the wing stays just need a little mallet action, the one of the aero pieces is just part of processing (but they could send me one that looks fine) and that the mirrors are inadequate and will be replaced. They advertise them as convex but say that will come "slightly curved". We shall see. Using the suggestion I beat the one wing stays into place. Soft aluminum bent up top and the hub steel stud forced it's way through the bottom hole. Not a very delicate procedure. These CSR fenders are quite more aggressive than I expected. Cut angle was expected but how far forward/low on the tire they go compared to my regular ones that I mounted was a surprise. Mocked up for now