Vovchandr

That's a good question. What is the registration cap and cancellation? I still haven't signed up. Got the head back today

Some progress finally. Today the right caps were sourced and delivered to the shop. If anybody with a custom Zetec runs into this issue... Ferrea didn't fit. Manely weren't right. After talking to the very helpful people at Artistry in Engineering they discovered a supplier that works - https://www.vacmotorsports.com/ They have all sorts of custom varieties and I was able to order ~2.5mm ones that the shop can work with. They said they can take out any minor differences from the valve. VAC-LC-6-2.50 is the part number. I've ordered 8 of the 2.5mm and one of the 2.55 just in case. Shop also replaced all the valve seals and didn't find any other problems in the head. It should be ready for me tomorrow. One interesting note that the shop was surprised to see is mis matching original valve seals. Either two different generations or a mix of intake and exhaust ones (green vs brown). All my replacements had just one part number. Also got my report from BlackStone today. Not very good, I could potentially have a bottom end issue, but they didn't see evidence of blown head gasket. Random notes: *I've never over-nighted anything before in my life and broke that cherry on at least 3 items now. *Somehow a $6 part so far has cost me about ~$200. Lets see how many things I can return.

In regards to the wild card on the throttle revving is an issue I had. It was two fold. 1) Cable would travel free until I parked. Then when I got into it the pedal was "frozen" in off position until I gave it a push and then it worked fine again until next cold stop. Issue was it was freezing up inside the cable housing right above the exhaust manifold. I think it's only a LHD Zetec issue, and wouldnt be a problem in the routing for a RHD Duratec. 2) Issue 2 was the cable end cap was actually coming out of the housing under acceleration at random times and upon relief of the throttle wouldn't go back into the housing but rather get stuck on the outside of the housing causing acceleration or revving regardless of throttle input. Not sure on your exact setup but certainly sounds familiar. It's a two man job to catch that happening and took me a long time to figure out. Somebody was in the car playing with throttle and I was under the hood looking at it. Cold cylinder doesn't sound good however.

This is still in the back of my mind. Maybe going into the fall I'll see where the dominos fall. For the next few weeks its still a mad rush to get existing motor to work for the track weekend.

Here is what I have. They never came with the engine, they were installed by the builder on intake cam. In thousands Width: ~356.7 Height ~200 Depth ~101 ID ~235 In mm Width: ~9.06 Height ~5.08 Depth ~2.57 ID ~5.97 I've ordered from Ferrea C10004, C10005, C10008, C10011 and none of them were close. FocalJet is a forum isn't it? They sell caps? Google doesn't link to a store Checked Summit, Jegs, Crowley etc. Catcams might have something close

Yes the lash cap. Aren't these specifically hardened and treated in other specific manufacturing techniques? Not sure if a local machine shop can just cut one out and make it work.

Here is my dilemma Time to fix my car is running out and the part to fix is is potentially in the attic of the house. The owners I believe are in a senior age and it's too hot for them to go into the attic My last correspondence last week said this "THE NEXT ABLE BODY CUSTOMER THAT COMES OVER WILL GET VOLUNTEERED TO FETCH THEM" I'm aware that this isn't worth their time to hassle over a business proposition and reached out to them a few too many times over the last few weeks trying to get this $6 or however much part, so I'm not trying to push my luck too much but time is of the essence. If I was certain that the part was there I'd drive down but it would be a very long venture to do if I came back empty handed. I've considered ordering a pizza and tipping the delivery guy extra $20 to go into the attic, however I haven't proposed that yet. Biting my time at this moment.

I might have a favor to ask next week. Weighting options at the moment. It's a 16 hour round trip drive for me, and it would be much easier to find somebody local that might be able to help with a set of hands.

The engine and hard idle sound very similar to my car and it's issues. I however had ITB's and a problem with IAC. As the car would get warm it would hold but it was very hard to start at the beginning.

The seller was incredibly detailed and I found the answer to my question "I'm very short (5'4") and my mechanic was uncomfortable with the fit of the shoulder straps on me. He cut away some of the seat so that the should straps would be more level with my shoulders. If you are over 5'8", you'll probably want to replace the driver's seat or find a way to repair the change."

Unrelated: your driver seat upper seatbelt cutout is a strange shape for some reason. It doesn't match the typical shape like you see on the passenger where the bow is facing upward, your bow looks to be facing down.

Unfortunately the seats are fiberglass resin and heat gun application will not work as desired. Only way of executing your plan would be somebody skilled in fiberglass cutting the seat down the middle and adding middle filler to stretch it out. While plausible this will never be cost effective after all the labor hours involved in making it look good still after all the work. Your best bet is a new seat. Caterham offers a different style Tillett in the later years but I'm not sure if it's any wider in the sides. Alternatively I'm sure there are aftermarket solutions but it's going to be very hard to find a seat that's narrow enough to fit into S3 but wide enough to accommodate somebody who's too wide for the S3 seat. Moving the seat further back but adding some kind of liner/spacer into the back is going to be your best cost effective option to get yourself pushed out from the seat sides Disregard the CF, reference picture of the new style seat

Darn. Going there this weekend as a birthday trip in wine country. Wish scheduled lined up. I'd like to see pics as well

This came up on my YouTube suggestions

Current checkpoint is next week to see if they the lash caps are around and to get shipped I'll never forget the episode of deadliest catch, where some small ~$3 bolt sheared in the engine and caused the entire multi million dollar operation to grind to a halt and boat had to limp back to the dock to get repaired. That's sort of how I feel right now with the lash cap hunt.

@Croc Artistry In Engineering in VA

Thanks John. I'd follow up on that if I didn't have a direct lead right now. My measurements came out to be about 9.06 width, 5.20 height, 2.67 depth and 6mm ID.

@CarlB It appears you were right on the money. I've visited a second Ford dealer who was also confused and couldn't find a lash cap. Running out of ideas I tried calling the original builder that I had on the sheet to see if they would be willing to help out. Sure enough the phone number was still valid, they picked up and were very nice and confirmed that they used their own lash caps on the intake side to work with the cam profile. I send them the dimensions of the one I have a few minutes ago, they will try to match it against the boxes of leftovers they have and send it over to me (maybe with a few extras)

Lash caps are in. Doesn't look like any of them will work. Called Ferrea and they don't really have anything that will work it seems. Debating on buying a stock head to source the caps but at this point in time I have no guarantees that mine are even stock at this point in time. Since the head was build who knows what the builder used.

Zetecs varieties are still very confusing to me. One of my timing belt idle pulleys came in different than what I've had. Started looking into it. It appears there were two different varieties of Zetec with no obvious distinctions. From everything I've seen so far I have a Ford Contour Motor due to it being VCT and the position of the oil fill plug. Still no idea why the yellow valve cover but those are seen occasionally. In the first picture you can see idler is same size as tensioner. In second picture, idler is bigger vs Here is what the part numbers cross back over to Smaller Bigger As you can see there is a lot of overlap in 99. Might be a half year model thing. With my Caterham being a 2001 I always assumed by engine is around 2000. Looks like it might be a 1998?

I find that remark strange too as I was able to find other topics and part number of people talking about them. I placed an overnight order for 4x of them to be here by Monday. Listed for "6.08 mm Lash Caps - Specifications: 6.08 mm - .239 ID - .120 Deep Ford Focus 2.0L (for Valve Stem Stock size)" I hope they fit. Order one size bigger and smaller as well just in case. They needed valve dimensions from the shop but the shop was unable to provide me with them until Monday.

News from the machine shop Cylinder #1 that was making noise had a stuck valve lash cap. Guy said he needed vice grips to get it off and you can see the imprint. He said it would likely have made the noise I heard coming from that cylinder. Not sure how but I can go with that theory. He also indicated wear on that bucket for that cylinder pictured below. (See middle bucket in shot) With a new lash cap everything can go back together to end the year but he did recommend fixing it over winter property. I potentially need a new intake cam as well due to some mild wear on the lobe. Finding a lash cap replacement is a little difficult so far. Went to Ford and they couldn't even find the cap on their diagram or give me a part number... But also said regardless it wouldn't be available. Ok. Once replacement is found I can start putting things together.

Is this just a regular yearly inspection? Where is this inspection taking place? Some sort of chain? This seems like a lot of work for something most "seasoned" private places wouldn't bat an eye at. Regardless of that, do you also have to pass OBD2 due to being 1996+?