KnifeySpoony

I wouldn't think of the engine as "dying"- ie shutting off, then restarting. What the OP is describing is simply loss of power. When he declutches, the engine just idles normally. Nothing is "restarting". Am I wrong?

Hmmm my clutch modulates very smoothly on my 420R. Very easy to engage 1st gear smoothly

You mean it didn't go in with tenderness and whispering sweet nothings? Maybe you didn't whisper softly enough...

This is an initial install afaik. Nothing is being "replaced', and even so, this is not an an usual issue for late model 7 diffs. Most are seeing tolerances such that significant bushing deflection is requiring to get the bolts through. I speak from experience, it seems you are speaking from speculation. "alignment" is not possible without force, because the hard rubber bushings need to deflect. This has been for many years actually if you go look at threads on blatchat going back ~10rs. There are various strategies in terms of order of operations, but it typically requires a lot force at some point in the process.

Have you ever installed a diff into a late model Caterham? Until you walk in a man's shoes...

TADTS. Hit it with a bigger hammer. I think they call it a BFH. I think i used an impact wrench to help drive it through at some points during the install as well. It was a real motherfucker.

Even very small difference in idle voltage make a big difference (I learned the hard way). However at 4.58 it should still rev, but could have fueling issues. My guess is your TPS is bad. You can pick one up at your local Ford parts counter.

Measuring TPS voltage on back of the connector is possible but annoying. I advise getting an easimap adapter to make it easier. Re: your car's behavior - it sounds like the TPS is indeed not working. I know from experience that the car will idle fine with the TPS unplugged but will bog/die if the throttle is opened. Sounds similar to your behavior.

Glad you got it sorted. Hopefully the spring on the barrel wasn't strong enough to damage the TPS. You should check the idle voltage IMO. I would get set up to do that anyway, as I have seen the voltage drift and need adjusting, and had a TPS go bad.

It should pop off. And yes you want to remove the tps because when the barrels come off, they will rotate beyond their (and the tps's) normal rotation range.

I can try to take a pic/vid but I think with the trumpets/backing plate on will be hard to see anything (and they are annoying to take off/on, sorry). Given that you've already taken the trumpets off, I would just take the intakes off and see if each side is operating correctly on their own, and if so, reinstall them. The mechanism of each side has to interlock correctly (under tension which makes it challenging) during installation. Also have to make sure the gaskets don't dislodge from their grooves during installation. If the spring is still binding, then you may be correct that there is a flaw with the intake itself and may need replacing/fixing.

Fwiw my solution solved the leak and i never touched it again. Re:oil overflow, yeah i had to cut the tube inside the bottle much shorter as it was near the bottom of the tank.

No need to take the intake off. Just make sure the open and close stops are properly set and working properly. Sounds like the WOT stop needs to be adjusted. Super simple. The tps adjustment is only for idle voltage. So hopefully that's ok. You can check with a multimeter.

100% not right, definitely don't drive it. Something is clearly interfering with the barrel or cable movement. If you're not comfortable working on the car, have your dealer look at it. If you are, I would disconnect the cable from the barrels- see if they open and close freely. The spring on the barrels is strong; when I let off the throttle, the barrels snap shut and the stop on the barrels bangs loudly against the stop screw. If the barrels move fine, then the issue is with the cable. It's possible something is assembled incorrectly, but can't tell from the video.

I wouldn't use heat on the lens/LED. I would use floss or a plastic scraper. Keep in mind you're doing that not in between the alu base and the bar but between the alu base and the light unit. The alu base is screwed into the bar.

FYI there is no factory CHMSL except on the EURO 5 cars I think. That brake light you have looks like the Beachman aftermarket one: https://www.beachmanracing.com/rollbar-mounted-light

what was the prompt?

The 620r tank is not trunk mounted. It's still in the engine bay: https://caterhamcars.com/assets/RetailerHub/users/caterhamsilverstone/620R Roulette Green/19.jpg

Seems an odd/dumb design... Can you just change to more traditional dry sump tank layout? Pop in the nice triangular tank up front? Or the rear mounted 620 tank? Seems like it almost might be worth the faff.

Having read a bit about the CSR oil level issues, I still don't understand how the total oil amount in the system is so hard to determine. With the engine running, don't the scavenge pumps deplete the oil in the sump and fill the oil tank? I get that the bellhousing mounted tank is different than the tanks on 420R and 620R, but why doesn't the tank "fill" while the engine is running, which can then be checked in the tank? Is it a matter of the oil settling so quickly back into the sump out of the tank once the engine is shut off? Can the oil level in the tank be checked with the engine running (this can be done on my 420R btw)?

I've read mixed instructions on the internets - some say simultaneously push in the 3 little tabs. Other people say to push in the ring. I tried the later but was unsuccessful.

Pulled the fuel pump. Indeed there is no baffle that I can see. The float arm and completely detached from the pump and was loose in the tank - that's what was rattling around. I don't think I mentioned but the fuel gauge never reading full was another symptom that appeared on the last day I drove the care. My working theory was that the mythical detached baffle was preventing the float from rising fully... Anyway, I reattached it and put the pump back in. So back to square on the fuel starve. I suppose it could just be a product of more lateral grip. I also wonder if the pump could be slowly failing? Also related; how does one disconnect this fuel line? I struggled with it for a while, then just left it connected when I pulled the pump.

OK, i'm pretty sure the baffle in the tank has failed. I can hear something rattling around in the tank. New project awaits. Any chance of repairing a baffle in situ, or this just means new tank is going in?

Oh woops, missed that. I have never heard of those tires - looks like they need to be ordered from Europe in 13" sizes? Please report back on fitment and performance.