KnifeySpoony

Hmmm no sound on videos for me.

Test continuity of plug wires with a meter. I had one go bad.

https://www.thedrive.com/news/33330/the-lightest-porsche-911-ever-is-full-of-holes

Is it enough to drip on the floor? Or just on the top/back of the oil tank? With my car, it's just some oil on the rim of the tank opening and underside of cap/threads that gets blown out with airflow once underway. It doesn't keep leaking once it's been distributed.

How much seepage? Just some mist around the cap and spray onto front of engine? It always does that no matter how much I wipe the threads and undersurface of cap. Once I wipe off the spray, it doesn't come back until I undo/replace the cap again.

Don't underestimate the likelihood of this... Seems most people just hit and run these days too.

I use Hagerty. But it's an agreed value, full coverage setup.

Standard 13" sizes 185/215- I don't think they came in other sizes but I could be wrong

Sold

De minimus exemption is gone.

Just wait.... I ordered a set of wheels from Caterham. About a month after they were delivered I got a tariff bill for 37.5% from our gov.

Oh - re: sounds limits, I blew a 95db at Laguna, so no go on most days there. I had a custom rear exit pipe made but blew a 95db again lol. And that is with the sound station off to the right. I think the intake is the loudest thing. I do have a full Caterham trackday exhaust setup with cat and second rear muffle but I've yet to try it.

I put it on during initial build so nothing to compare to. That said, it's definitely not that loud in general. In fact I cannot hear any exhaust noise over the roller barrel intake noise. If i'm up against the wall to my right at the track, then I can hear it a bit.

Gotta be a slave cylinder issue unfortunately. Gotta come out. That sucks! Oh well you will get good at it lol.

Your issue is not consistent with incorrect dip switch setting imo. I think you have a defective tach. I just replaced mine for incorrect clocking issues after a few years. They seem to be of low quality...

Yes, sold. This was a spare, as I got an extra one from Caterham to replace what they thought was a defective tach during my build, but it just needed dip switches set correctly (which they are somehow unaware of). So this was unneeded. However, that tach just started malfunctioning recently and I had to buy a new one (at much higher cost at today's rates).

Are these made in US or abroad? Will they be subject to tariffs? I just paid 37.5% tariff on new wheels from Caterham...

That's promising!

Perfect

Basically there was nothing visible or measurable wrt damage. (other than the rashed wheel and broken wing). I replaced the wing and wheel, then aligned the car. Was found to have increased caster on the left front (went from 7.1 to 7.7deg. So either the control arm bent slightly or the chassis mount deflect back, resulting in more caster. The car does indeed pull slightly to the right now, but not bad. Could move caster washers to try to decrease the asymmetry but haven't bothered. Car feels fine and has been worked hard since without issues.

I don't get it. That is literally what I described earlier and you said I was wrong...

More conflicting information here... When the engine "dies", is it rotating or not? Not to speak for the group but with each post we get more confused by your description of what's happening. I agree that a video would be helpful.

Maybe just your tach is showing 0 rpm? And you've lost power. But you're not actually at 0 rpm.

Not any clearer tbh. How can you be at zero rpms with the car in gear, clutch out, and moving?

The above statement contradicts your earlier statement.... What does "completely dead" mean to you? 0rpm? What does "restarts at idling speed" mean? We have been asking you this for 3 pages of posts and still this is unclear.