KnifeySpoony

This is the tray. I used double stick tape to keep it from shifting on the old battery tray/platform. I also put some adhesive backed foam to line tray so the battery fits in snugly. I cut off the two tabs that were in the way. I also cut off the vertical tabs off the old platform, obviously. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L2WFQVZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 And this is the top bracket. The J hooks are extra long, I just cut off the excess. The hooks work perfectly in the side holes on the factory tray. I also chose this bracket as it does not interfere/cover the restart button on the battery (though I have yet to need it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TZ365CD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 This setup has been rock solid for me. I initially wanted to have the battery laying down (for aesthetics only, as it's so light the weight up high really isn't an issue), but this was simpler and has worked out fine.

Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested.

You have to deflect the bush enough to get the bolts in. Massive PITA and takes a lot of muscle/prying/hammering/swearing.

Thank you. Yeah the ride height/gearing consequences are a concern for me as well. Geometry wise, I'm ok raising my front (currently, my front is quite low, with LCA parallel to ground). Raising the rear is ok too but that would mean a smaller tire and shorter gearing. I'm right at the top of 4th on the longest straights on my 2 home tracks so I'd really prefer not to have to go to 5th (nitpicking I know). Why is rear ride height change an issue for you? Seems just as easy as the front. I'm as low as I can go on my spring perches on rear (actually I've removed the locking perch in able to go as low as I am currently), so any larger diameter tire in rear will require raising the front. I have also considered going to a 15" setup to run A7s in 205/225 but the diameters are quite a bit off. Would require new wingstays and front wings as well. Also I drive my car to the track, so driving on slicks is kinda sketchy. I'm severely grieving the loss of the ZZR in our sizes...

Tell me about the sizes on the R7s and slicks

My tach started having an issue yesterday. Was working earlier during a long drive, then at some pointed I noted that the tach was reading high, but still moving/responding generally normally. It seems to be reading about 1k too high. With the car off, the tach comes to rest at 1k, it's not zeroing out. Any thoughts? It's almost like i just jumped a tooth or something.

I can confirm, the valve is indeed necessary. It easily locks the rears in 4 of the 7 more "open" positions on the valve. Ended up on position 3, but that was just on the street. With different tire/brake temps and after they're fully bedded, that may change.

Even more simplified: With "control arms": Even more pared down: With lights: I feel like someone with some drawing ability could make something like this look good. Would scale down small well I think.

Make it any font you want, it was just intended to be a jumping-off point, spitballing off of SENC's idea. I am also not a graphic designer (if that isn't already abundantly clear).

Even more simplified:

I really like this idea. Maybe a simplified line drawing of the car. Sorry for heinous mouse drawing in MS paint.

LOL IANAL. This is just my day job. I just posted a picture from the internet as an idea. Thought it might make for a good jumping-off point. Crazy you can copyright a number...

to wit...

There's a bunch of people selling knockoff stickers, wheel center caps etc with that and similar logos - I mean - Lotus hasn't sold the 7 for 52 years - I doubt they'd come after you...

here's a drawing as a starting point:

Replace the "super" with "USA"?

Wrong map I don't think it will run at all. The TPS tuns opposite direction AFAIK. If you have the wrong injectors it will run, but super rich.

Sounds like all par for course. The diff was a real MFer for me too. Definitely involved the most swearing and hammers of any part of the build. Re: the Watts linkage - it looks like you got yours on, but what issues did you have? (I have it on my as well) Re: the ECU - you most likely have the regular plenum tune loaded. I had to flash the ECU with the RBTB tune. You can either send it to a "dealer" to have it done, or you can get the easimap cable and free software and do it yourself, which is what I did. The friendly folks at the home office in UK emailed me the correct file. BTW, does the roller barrel kit still come with the green injectors? If so, don't use them, they are incorrect. The new RBTB tune (at least for me in 2021) used the standard black injectors. Don't be surprised if your tach reads wrong after the flash. I had to adjust the dipswitches on the tach even thought caterham seemed unaware of the issue and even sent me a new tach trying to fix the issue.

Very happy to see a proper 7 U-turn. It's literally the only way.

I made on the thread on the install: I left the solid line in the car in case I ever want to go back. I figure if I always ran the valve open and it interfered with pedal feel, I could just pull it out and revert to the old line. Oh and I had it backwards - when the valve is set to minimum rear brake, you can feel the mechanism reduce flow, hence "hitting the wall".

Just finished this and bled the system today. I do think the valve does something to the pedal feel. Sitting in the garage, when i press the brake, if the bias valve is open you can hear and feel a click within the valve and you can also feel it in the pedal. Like the pedal hits a wall and firms up. But if the valve is closed to max, no noise and more consistent/natural pedal feel. Not sure if it will be noticeable in track though. Did you ever do the upgrade?

Must resist urge to buy spares...

Sorry to derail thread, but does anyone know if the BMW diff LSD can be serviced/rebuilt without pulling the diff?

So after pondering this for a couple years, then my hand being forced by the abysmal quality of the stock Sierra calipers and shockingly short pad life in the rear, I finally upgraded the Caterham uprated brake kit. The hard part of this is installing the (supposedly mandatory) bias valve. Most of my trepidation was due to my complete ignorance and fear of brake line fittings/flares etc. Thankfully DPR Motorsports in the UK agreed to sell me their flexible line kit with all premade lines to simplify the install. Still need to bleed and leak check but it's all in. Pics below. Will give updates on braking performance and pad life as I go.

Yeah I've read 1-1.5x diameter of screw when going into steel. With both washers I'm just under 1x so I definitely need to make a change of some kind.