KnifeySpoony

I think you will find 18psi a bit low for street, but a good starting point for track. I think most aim for 21-24 hot - and you won't get that much gain on street. I start at 17 cold first session usually then bleed off as the day warms up. I'm running 2.5deg ears. On ZZS I had very uneven wear (pretty much entire outside half of tire) with 1.5deg. I swapped to 2.0 ears but also changed to ZZR around the same time. The wear is much better but still some shoulder wear so I recently swapped to 2.5deg ears when I did the race rear brake upgrade. I was concerned it might be too much, but balance still feels good though it's too early to say on tire wear. Gonna get proper tire temps next day out on track and find out. They make a 2.0 in the race ears so I can always drop back down. They have a 3.0 also but I assume that is intended for slicks only.

Also - re: caster - I'm one washer away from max and steering effort is very high on track. People that have driven my car think it's ridiculous. It is very fatiguing actually, but I enjoy it. I just imaging I'm driving a 70s F1 car. On the street it's fine though. ARB choice and rear setting will vary on other factors, especially your spring rates. I think I have the orange bar (can't remember actually - whatever comes with the "track" setup) and I'm at one hole from full stiff on rear bar.

You are on 888R? Not sure how much camber they like but I am running 3deg with ZZR and wear is good. I might bump to 2.5 and see how you wear - depends on your street/track balance of driving. I run zero toe because I prefer the feel. I run my ride height quite low 119mm/138mm - this puts front LCA parallel with ground. This puts bell housing clearance at 68mm which sounds scary but I've had no issues. I've even driven over a speed bump or two. Do you happen to know the spring rates on the cup suspension? Your push is probably just because you aren't getting heat into the front tires. I wouldn't judge car setup based on that tbh. Besides, that is easily fixed with a gentle prod of the throttle- rear will come right around, especially on cold tires on the street. These cars really can't do what they were meant to do/are capable of on the street. They are surprisingly fast and capable on track.

triple post lol

triple post

Looking good - you gonna get that sucker out to the track?

The most time I've spent in the car in a day is about 6hrs.

Yes tillett's are pricey but they're incredibly comfortable and weigh almost nothing.

Oh and just to clarify - when I say the car brakes harder, I don't just mean it brakes harder for a given pedal pressure. I mean that previously the fronts were locking so early, I couldn't slow the car well. Now the car is using all available traction front AND rear to slow the car.

First day on track yesterday (Sonoma) with the new setup. Was cold in AM, hard to get temp in tires so took 2 sessions to get them fully bedded. As they bedded, pedal feel improved more - it is much firmer now. Upon initial install I was slightly disappointed, thinking that it would be much firmer than prior. Now it actually is. With the pedal travelling less, heal and toe is much easier. Overall the brakes have way more power now, better pedal feel, much more confidence. The car was definitely overbraked at front in standard form (4 pot uprated brakes in front, sierra sliders in rear). Huge upgrade in braking performance - I could brake so much later and harder. Easy to dial in balance with the lever. If you're ok with giving up the handbrake, I highly recommend it. And that's just on the performance alone, which was not at all my reason for doing it- that was durability. Will report back on that after further outings.

After a couple ignition cycles and tach sweeps it did re-zero itself. However it did it again today -only after a couple hours of driving, it started to creep up again, this time reading about 3000rpm too high. Upon getting home, I cycled the ignition once and it re-zero'd. So now I'm considering replacing with OEM vs getting Stack gauge (for aesthetics, and perhaps improved build quality?)

You need to change the dipswitches on the back of the tach.

Re: the ECU flash - one of the first files they sent me was incorrect and the heated seats didn't work - they had to update and send another file. Re: the tach - does it not work at all, or just misreading? Definitely rebleed after first drive. Some bubbles always seem to materialize.

Not sure who are you actually replying to here? MV8 suggested nothing of the sort...

What was the approximate cost for that service?

Nice. Super slick looking

No idea, but I would run what you usually run and see how they do. Maybe a couple extra PSI given their warning about liking higher pressures.

I see you're also in the bay area. I also see you're running aeroscreen. I'm much more often too hot than too cold in the car. The car roasts you pretty well in anything above 60deg temps. I also don't have carpeting so the metal tunnel conducts heat really well to my right leg. In cold weather, more heat coming underneath the dash doesn't seem all that helpful to me if you're running an aeroscreen. There's so much turbulence at speed that warm air will not stay in the cockpit. On cold AM drives to fall trackdays it is wicked cold. I have heated seats but the cold turbulent air really sucks the heat out of you. However I can't imagine the heater would help all that much unless you are running a hood/sidescreens. Would be more useful to wear a heated jacket/gloves (which I am considering trying after a 36deg drive to Laguna one morning that just about killed me).

Flipping or getting otherwise launched isn't that uncommon with Caterham racing because of the exposed front wheels. I personally have made contact with another car on track (a tin top however) and was not launched thankfully. I should 100% have the full cage but I live dangerously.

You might be surprised how much belts stretch in a crash. That said we all have our risk tolerance. I don't have any padding on my bar. Even with a helmet (which I always wear in my car) it's not ideal from a safety perspective.

This is the tray. I used double stick tape to keep it from shifting on the old battery tray/platform. I also put some adhesive backed foam to line tray so the battery fits in snugly. I cut off the two tabs that were in the way. I also cut off the vertical tabs off the old platform, obviously. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09L2WFQVZ?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1 And this is the top bracket. The J hooks are extra long, I just cut off the excess. The hooks work perfectly in the side holes on the factory tray. I also chose this bracket as it does not interfere/cover the restart button on the battery (though I have yet to need it) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09TZ365CD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 This setup has been rock solid for me. I initially wanted to have the battery laying down (for aesthetics only, as it's so light the weight up high really isn't an issue), but this was simpler and has worked out fine.

Not to dissuade either of you from that slick looking solution, but just fyi this is what I did for my car - I can provide links to parts if you are interested.

You have to deflect the bush enough to get the bolts in. Massive PITA and takes a lot of muscle/prying/hammering/swearing.

Thank you. Yeah the ride height/gearing consequences are a concern for me as well. Geometry wise, I'm ok raising my front (currently, my front is quite low, with LCA parallel to ground). Raising the rear is ok too but that would mean a smaller tire and shorter gearing. I'm right at the top of 4th on the longest straights on my 2 home tracks so I'd really prefer not to have to go to 5th (nitpicking I know). Why is rear ride height change an issue for you? Seems just as easy as the front. I'm as low as I can go on my spring perches on rear (actually I've removed the locking perch in able to go as low as I am currently), so any larger diameter tire in rear will require raising the front. I have also considered going to a 15" setup to run A7s in 205/225 but the diameters are quite a bit off. Would require new wingstays and front wings as well. Also I drive my car to the track, so driving on slicks is kinda sketchy. I'm severely grieving the loss of the ZZR in our sizes...

Tell me about the sizes on the R7s and slicks