KnifeySpoony

De minimus exemption is gone.

Just wait.... I ordered a set of wheels from Caterham. About a month after they were delivered I got a tariff bill for 37.5% from our gov.

Oh - re: sounds limits, I blew a 95db at Laguna, so no go on most days there. I had a custom rear exit pipe made but blew a 95db again lol. And that is with the sound station off to the right. I think the intake is the loudest thing. I do have a full Caterham trackday exhaust setup with cat and second rear muffle but I've yet to try it.

I put it on during initial build so nothing to compare to. That said, it's definitely not that loud in general. In fact I cannot hear any exhaust noise over the roller barrel intake noise. If i'm up against the wall to my right at the track, then I can hear it a bit.

Gotta be a slave cylinder issue unfortunately. Gotta come out. That sucks! Oh well you will get good at it lol.

Your issue is not consistent with incorrect dip switch setting imo. I think you have a defective tach. I just replaced mine for incorrect clocking issues after a few years. They seem to be of low quality...

Yes, sold. This was a spare, as I got an extra one from Caterham to replace what they thought was a defective tach during my build, but it just needed dip switches set correctly (which they are somehow unaware of). So this was unneeded. However, that tach just started malfunctioning recently and I had to buy a new one (at much higher cost at today's rates).

Are these made in US or abroad? Will they be subject to tariffs? I just paid 37.5% tariff on new wheels from Caterham...

That's promising!

Perfect

Basically there was nothing visible or measurable wrt damage. (other than the rashed wheel and broken wing). I replaced the wing and wheel, then aligned the car. Was found to have increased caster on the left front (went from 7.1 to 7.7deg. So either the control arm bent slightly or the chassis mount deflect back, resulting in more caster. The car does indeed pull slightly to the right now, but not bad. Could move caster washers to try to decrease the asymmetry but haven't bothered. Car feels fine and has been worked hard since without issues.

I don't get it. That is literally what I described earlier and you said I was wrong...

More conflicting information here... When the engine "dies", is it rotating or not? Not to speak for the group but with each post we get more confused by your description of what's happening. I agree that a video would be helpful.

Maybe just your tach is showing 0 rpm? And you've lost power. But you're not actually at 0 rpm.

Not any clearer tbh. How can you be at zero rpms with the car in gear, clutch out, and moving?

The above statement contradicts your earlier statement.... What does "completely dead" mean to you? 0rpm? What does "restarts at idling speed" mean? We have been asking you this for 3 pages of posts and still this is unclear.

I wouldn't think of the engine as "dying"- ie shutting off, then restarting. What the OP is describing is simply loss of power. When he declutches, the engine just idles normally. Nothing is "restarting". Am I wrong?

Hmmm my clutch modulates very smoothly on my 420R. Very easy to engage 1st gear smoothly

You mean it didn't go in with tenderness and whispering sweet nothings? Maybe you didn't whisper softly enough...

This is an initial install afaik. Nothing is being "replaced', and even so, this is not an an usual issue for late model 7 diffs. Most are seeing tolerances such that significant bushing deflection is requiring to get the bolts through. I speak from experience, it seems you are speaking from speculation. "alignment" is not possible without force, because the hard rubber bushings need to deflect. This has been for many years actually if you go look at threads on blatchat going back ~10rs. There are various strategies in terms of order of operations, but it typically requires a lot force at some point in the process.

Have you ever installed a diff into a late model Caterham? Until you walk in a man's shoes...

TADTS. Hit it with a bigger hammer. I think they call it a BFH. I think i used an impact wrench to help drive it through at some points during the install as well. It was a real motherfucker.

Even very small difference in idle voltage make a big difference (I learned the hard way). However at 4.58 it should still rev, but could have fueling issues. My guess is your TPS is bad. You can pick one up at your local Ford parts counter.

Measuring TPS voltage on back of the connector is possible but annoying. I advise getting an easimap adapter to make it easier. Re: your car's behavior - it sounds like the TPS is indeed not working. I know from experience that the car will idle fine with the TPS unplugged but will bog/die if the throttle is opened. Sounds similar to your behavior.