KnifeySpoony

Given early failure probably had the carbon plates. Known issue as I assume you've discovered online. My 2020/2021 build presumably with sintered plates is doing well at >6000, mostly track miles. It has been very clunky at low speeds since day one, but still passes preload torque test with flying colors. All plated diffs are wear items. When mine gives up I will have to decide on Titan vs Tracsport for a rebuild/replacement. I guess depends on when it goes. I love the feel of it though. So much better than a torsen.

SV is a grotesque abomination and should be banished to the bowels of Hades.

Update: So I went to throw parts at the problem (new fuel pump), and this time when I pulled the pump out, I could see the broken baffle plate loose in the bottom of the tank. I guess the first time I checked it must've been on the far right of the tank so even peering over with a light I didn't see anything. This time is was sitting there in plain view. So the lessons are - yes these cars do have baffled tanks, yes they do need the baffle, and yes my first intuition was actually correct. Anyway, gonna order a new tank from CC and hope it is made better than this one was...

I guess if you know how to tune 3 way dampers, go for it. Having a 3 way is no guarantee of perfection though. Even though I know all the theory of damper tuning, I feel I would just chase my tail trying to set it up. Suspension can be a bit of a black art with cars to me. I had 2 way penskes on another car and felt like I never got the full benefit from them.

Don't forget to add in the spring rate from the bushes. Not sure how much that adds. But obviously they limit both droop and compression in theory. My S3 with track pack has 250/215 spring rates. With my damper and low ride height, I have a lot more droop than compression, esp up front. I know I must be in the bump stops a lot but I've never felt a "hard" hit like I've bottomed the shock, even smashing curbs/G outs on track. That said, why not just try the track pack shock/damper setup from caterham. My car is 1200lbs and it works very well on track. The damping is well-matched to the spring rate. It feels quite stiff on road (it's no cruiser), but good on track. Definitely wouldn't want it any softer on track though. With your car being heaver and street-focused, they could be a good setup for you. Why re-engineer what caterham has presumably already worked out?

pics plz

Lol these robo articles are pointless.

White or black. Anything else is naff.

AFAIK the towing and club membership is all wrapped into the policy. It was a flatbed. The magazine ain't bad either.

Another perk of Hagerty is the free towing - I had to utilize that service a couple years ago. Got a 80 mile tow for "free". Not sure if other companies provide this or not.

I've tried both and not felt a difference in my car. I know on blatchat some people really favor the BR7.

I'd love to run at ORP, but I'm lame and don't want to drive my car to Oregon in the summer heat. If someone had trailer room, I would gladly tag along if they can pick me up along the way.

Fabulous

I assume some of the structure will carry over from the Audi TT for cost savings/ease in homologation.

They have the EV 7 mule they've shown some. Hopefully they will release that as well. More options is never a bad thing imo. That said, I'm not holding my breath about the Project V actually coming to fruition.

Your Rivian is almost 3x the weight. If Caterham can achieve their goals, it seems like their EV could be lighter than the original Tesla roadster. I think that is the point - not 0-60 or charge times.

The 13" apollo rears are hubcentric on my car. Fronts are not.

How does this differ from a Millington Diamond?

Yes the rear circuit is all hose. I had my concerns about about pedal feel/etc, but was reassured it would be fine. I guess this setup is popular with 7 racers in the UK/europe. I'm sure having more solid line would improve pedal feel even further but even with this setup the improvement over stock is dramatic. Certainly the caliper improvement more than makes up for any downside to the soft lines.

I have lowered floor and carbon seats, so sitting very low, however I am 6'1" so that may be enough to get me up into the airstream more. Even at my height I am barely able to see the front wings. Are you able to with those seats?

Wow not my experience at all. Wonder why. My experience is very windy and turbulent above 60mph. I wear a full face helmet at freeway speeds for it to be tolerable.

I just say it's not that fast, it's more about the handling. The look of disappointment is priceless.

Re: the 2021 car you're looking at. I'm not sure I understand why putting a bias valve on the stock setup makes any sense. Sure, you could reduce the contribution of the rear brakes and make them last longer, but at the expense of massive performance loss. The car with that setup is already overbraked at the front. Making it worse doesn't make any sense to me. The solution is to upgrade the rear hardware. The problem was solved by Caterham years ago when they developed the race rear setup.

While certainly some people get long life from the standard rear brakes, there are many people that have the same issues I've had. Comes down to the usual variables, of course (pace, power, circuit, weather, etc). But also, caliper quality may have declined over the years. There was a thread on blatchat I took part in debating this issue. Various posters telling me I'm doing something wrong lol. Tell me they are fast, but their rear brakes last forever. Then post videos to prove it showing tracks that have no real hard braking zones. Check out this quote from the DPR Motorsports website regarding the uprate rear brake upgrade: "This upgrade provides far better rear brake pad longevity, much improved brake pedal compliance and a more robust and leak free system as found with the standard rear Caterham calipers. If you are tired of going through so many rear standard pads and discs after only a few track days this is a ‘must have’ upgrade!" This exactly describes my problems - pads that disintegrate after a few days on track, and failing caliper seals. I clearly was not the only one... The firm pedal and greatly improved braking performance by optimizing bias are the icing on the cake really.

Does the bias valve negatively affect pedal feel in some way? I suppose it's possible but it's still dramatically improved over stock. The pedal is much firmer and with much less dead zone. It's a huge upgrade in feel alone. I suppose it's possible to find a lower friction pad that could balance with the front, but the increase in braking power with the new hardware is dramatic, so you would need to make sure you're running a very high friction pad up front. And if you run a low friction pad in rear, it may not be able to cope with the heat. Even with the larger/vented rotors, the rear brakes still run quite a bit hotter than the fronts. Re: connection - the connectors look the same as they do going into the bias valve in my photo.