slngsht

Skip, good data point. Thank you.

not worried about door angle. that can be independent of windshield angle by a little creativity with the side brackets

had not thought about the critical angle. Have to put it in the sun and check it out. what about fore/aft positioning. I think maybe having the windshield more to the rear is better for wind protection, but not sure. Thoughts?

actually, thinking through the car museum thing, maybe it's better to hit that on the way back. I'm concerned we'll miss out on chilling out in the mountains if we make the trip too long.

have any of you tried a more slanted windshield angle? I'm finally getting around to looking at the windshield. I have to get new glass cut, so playing around with angle and placement. To me, the slanted windshield looks better than upright. Any reason why not to slant it? visibility from the inside is still good (i.e. top of the windshield is nowhere near the line of sight). couple of pics of possible locations (mirrors will be mounted back on the windshield frame). main difference is fore/aft location. I'm thinking the aft location would be better for wind protection???

Dermot, just let me know when you can. Your spot is good. Agreed, Skyline is not the place to cruise. If we do the museum, we'll stay off Skyline drive.

guys, here is an alternative... The current route is a 4.5 hr drive from DC, or about 3 hrs from Front Royal, VA to Snowshoe (if you're meeting me there). The 3 hrs from Front Royal are almost all fun country roads. As an alternative, from Front Royal, we can head south, to Luray Caverns. There are 2 very interesting attractions in Luray. The first is the caverns, and 2nd is the car museum by the caverns. The first time I went to the car museum, I thought it was just gonna be a bunch of classics. The museum is a gem: Doing this will still give us 3 hours of quality back roads (from Harrisonburg, instead of front royal), but will add another hour of highway driving, as well as another 45 minutes of access roads to get to the caverns and back. Then add a couple of hours for seeing the cavern and museum, and it's an additional 6 hours. So, if we leave DC at 8 AM, we will get to our final destination at 6 PM. It will be a long day. Thoughts?

damn. nice!

it's been absolutely beautiful around DC this year. I believe only one 90 degree day this year. Unfortunately, this weekend's activities don't include driving the seven

Does this mean we have another taker?

heh, yeah. The whole thing will be torn down, blasted, painted, rebuilt, etc... but only after I'm sure it will fit

some pics showing the Z wheels bolted up, inboard discs and calipers, dual spring setup with the massive lower arm (compare it to the half shaft).

Well, instead of continuing the dedion discussion, I'm starting a new topic. I picked up a complete 1975 XJS IRS setup, from driveshaft to lug nuts for $50 today. It appears in relatively decent shape - no signs of excessive leaks, rubber pieces are still place, turns freely, etc... alas, it's not a limited slip, but still a heck of a deal for $50. I weighed it as is, and the complete assembly with my Z06 wheels and tires weighs approximately 400 lbs. 100 lbs heavier than my current setup. There are some very obvious places to save weight. The Jag rear comes with 2 sets (4) shocks and springs... with a little work, 2 can be done away with. Also the lower control arm is massive. That can definitely be lightened up. Then there is the assembly frame. There are pros and cons to keeping that. As far as measurements relative to the car, initial quick measurements are positive. The assmebly is slightly narrower than my frame, height-wise it's a good fit, the overall width (wheel mount surface to wheel mount surface) is just about perfect, etc... I would have to think of how to hack the frame (yeah, some of the few original tubes still there) to get the assembly in there. Jag's original design of the "assmebly" was to allow mechanics easy access to brakes, etc... by simply dropping the whole thing out of the car with a few mounting bolts. Amazingly enough, even the bolt pattern matches my corvette wheels, and the internals of the Jag diff can be swaped with DANA 44, so rebuild parts, ratios, etc... are no problem at all. I have till Thanksgiving (start of the mod season) to figure out how to proceed. I'll post pics later.

The way to make sure that happens is to buy a one way plane ticket

:thumbs:

Tom, As I was reading, I kept telling myself "I can't believe he sold it!". Good thing you didn't. Doing modded builds is tough enough when the thing is in the garage - it's very difficult when it's a plane ride away. Smart move.

The biggest difference for me was removing the windshield.

It's been a while since I even looked at it, but my car came with ultra short 9" trailing arms. When I ripped the chassis apart, I lengthened them to I believe 14" (not 100% sure about that), but they are definitely located forward of the pinion. Mustangs and Camaros suffer from this problem to a lesser extent when going over bumps, and they have more than twice as much sprung weight, so it shouldn't be a surprise that ride quality is not good, especially given the fact that we sit much closer to the rear axle than in typical cars.

as kitcat pointed out, step 1 is to eliminate any leaks into the footpedal area. step 2 is to insulate the area. step 3 would be to put a vent in to bring fresh air in. step 4 would be to remove the hood or windshield

:iagree:

from the wayback machine - when Martin came east http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showpost.php?p=11788&postcount=35

I weasled similarly, and kept my vette. I saw a nice black vette on the road the other day. license plate was "BKT LST"

delete, delete, delete, delete, delete, delete. There! Now, MARTIN! That's a real bummer. I hope she finds a good home.

that ship sailed long ago... if it works, the rear that i'll be taking out wasn't from the the original Rotus either.