scannon

390 miles, Grand Junction, CO to St. George, Utah. 60 miles into this section of the trip a coil pack failed. A friend in Grand Junction towed me on a rope behind his truck. The temp was 102F that summer day. I picked up a new coil pack at Flyin Miata and installed it and headed out again the next morning. No other problems on the round trip from Erie, CO to St. George with an overnight stop each way in Grand Junction. The total for the round trip was just over 1,300 miles. The bolt holding the muffler to the body failed on the Bear Creek Highway in Wyoming on a Se7ens trip. I drove to the next stop with a gloved hand on the muffler. Got some bolts and nuts and fixed it. On the GBB (Grizzly Bear Blat) during an overnight stop in a Canadian town I was parked on the street waiting for a friend to gas up to do a side trip. I started smelling gas fumes thinking it was a spill in the gas station and got out of the car to see where the fumes were coming from. Before I got into the station I realized as I walked past the front of the car that the fumes were coming from the louvers in the hood. I took off the hood and discovered the rubber fuel line between the hard line from the tank to the fuel rail had surface cracks all over it and was seeping fuel. The hose was marked for fuel injection and only a few years old. There happened to be a NAPA parts store about 5 blocks away. I picked up some new fuel injection line and back to the hotel. Had it fixed in 15 minutes and was on the way to the side trip.

That loop looks to be a place to attach a tow strap hook should it be needed.

This Westfield 7 was built by a friend of mine. I've seen it many times and have had it on my lift a few times to help with minor problems. She built it herself with very little help from her husband. She is very active in LOCO planning and leading many club trips and activities. She and her husband are getting ready to move to Mexico which is the reason for the sale.

Thinking back it was 15 psi. The exhaust quickly expanded from 2 1/4" to 3" after leaving the turbo. The waste gate joined the main exhaust 18" down stream although according to Corky Bell 20" was the ideal length. The rest of the exhaust was 3" until it came out of the muffler where it was divided into two Caterham OEM tail pipes out the back. The only other engine upgrades were larger injectors and fuel rail. The dyno plots show the Link vs. Hydra results. Link vs Hydra dyno plots.pdf

When I built my SV I had planned to go naturally aspirated first but as I got deeper into the build I decided it would be much easier to turbocharge it during the build. I used an FM exhaust manifold and an intercooler from Fast Forward Superchargers as it had both inlet and outlet pointing up on the ends of it. I fabricated the plumbing from exhaust tubing and some 90 degree elbows. I powder coated all the blue metal you seen in the pictures below using an old electric oven and a Eastridge powder coating set. I consulted with Corky Bell about the design of the exhaust system and had it fabricated by a local shop using all mandrel bends. For the first iteration I used a Link ECU that I had on hand and the next winter I changed it out for a Hydra Nemesis ECU which netted a 60 RWHP gain over the Link. Both were tuned by FM's Jeremy. Wiring in the ECU was the biggest and hardest part of the build but it started on the first attempt. I never had a problem with getting more HP than I wanted in an given moment. The final tune gave 301 RWHP at 14psi boost, I ran it at 12psi most of the time as the engine was bone stock 1.8 out of a 2002 Miata. 100 HP just isn't enough for me.

Is that an aftermarket turbo manifold I see on the engine? Great deal for someone,

Yes, quite the find. That's the first Se7en I've seen with air conditioning. How about some pictures of the dash area, I'd like to see how they handled the AC vents?

Have you inspected closely the key way in the nose of the crankshaft and in the harmonic balancer? This is a critical area of failure in the 1.6 Miata engines. If both slots are good purchase a new key and main bolt. Make sure you use the correct torque on it during assembly as there are two different torque specs depending on which of the three crankshafts used. Over torquing can lead to failure. Everything you need to know about the 1.6 crankshaft is contained in this: https://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html In 2006 I installed a 1.8 Miata engine and transmission in a Caterham SV chassis.

1963 British Sports Car Racing, lots of 7 content.

My 2005 SV came without an engine or transmission. At that time all came that way and you had to buy and engine and transmission from a separate business. There was such a separate business next door to the dealer. They stocked engines and transmissions and you could arrange to have the dealer assemble your car. This changed recently when it was mandatory to buy the engine and transmission with the car and if you wanted something else you had a spare engine and transmission to sell. I don't know how they get around this at least in Colorado which requires you to present proof of sale to you from another entity of the engine as well as an MSO for the chassis. When I bought my Caterham I had no knowledge of the Zetec engines and T5 transmissions and I was very comfortable building and turbo charging Miata engines so I borrowed an empty engine and head and set about figuring out how to make the Miata engine and transmission fit in the car. With the help of an expert machinist and car guy we designed and fabricated the engine mounts. I had a broken Miata 5 speed transmission and it would not fit in the chassis tunnel. It took 11 install as far as it would go, mark up what was preventing it from going in, pull it out and use a sawzall and die grinder to cut off the offending pieces and try again. The tail shaft housing was pretty hacked up and I removed it from the transmission and my machinist friend took it and the tail shaft housing from the trans that was to go into the car and created a thing of beauty that I regretted no one but me would see. I also had to shave some excess material off the gear box section but in the end it had about 1.8" clearance in several places. I used the motor mounts that came with the car and they were stiff enough the engine couldn't torque sideways even with 301 HP at the wheels. I witnessed this standing beside the engine during the dyno run. From left to right: unmodified, modified and the hacked up tail shaft housing

I put a label on it that said "Caterham Butt Extractor". Those pictures brought back some great memories of the 11 years I owned that 7.

Bob Simon is the producer of the Mirrors for Sevens (wink) rjsimon@qualmach.com He has moved but I think that is still a good email for him.

That is Alaskossie, I had a hand in building his car then stored it in my shop until he was ready to make his epic journey from Colorado to California and on to Alaska. When Tom came back to Colorado to drive his 7 the first time I gathered up a bunch of 7s at my shop. We had a great time then headed to the mountains for a long blat.

It's not a Caterham but I am taking delivery of a C8 Corvette convertible at the National Corvette Museum in Bowling Green, KY on August 13th which is my 77th birthday, and driving it home. Its a little more comfortable than a Se7en but doing my bit towards the 77 year old guys trend of driving cross country.

https://123movies.page/tv/car-sos-34769.442299

I have seen and driven this 7 and know the owner. Its sad to see it go but the owner can no longer drive. If it were an SV I would jump on it right now but sadly the S3 size is almost impossible for me to get in and out of nor can my big feet depress just one pedal at a time. When I drove it I had to take my shoes off. Its going to make the new owner very happy. Here's a few more pictures from when the owner brought it by for me to see and I took a short drive in it.

I want them. How much for everything shipped to 80516?

The article says the driver of the 7 lost control and had spun backwards into the oncoming lanebefore hitting the Polo. The passenger in the 7 died and the driver is in an induced coma.

This Stalker is still for sale here in Denver. $31k seems like a fairly low price for it. It keeps tempting me but I have a C8 coming I need to pay for. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-2014-lotus-super-brunton-stalker/7300053440.html

When I got tired of fumbling with the steering column ignition switch under the dash I put a simple ignition switch w/o a steering lock on the dash. It was fairly simple to do and much easier to live with. I removed the old switch and its steering lock. IIRC the new ignition switch was for a '60s Chevrolet truck purchased new from NAPA. It is the silver circle between the two gauges on the right side of the dash board.

I have a brand new one similar to the one in the picture. It has the cat converter and muffler as a unit. It came with my 2005 Caterham SV for a Zetec engine. There are ports for two O2 sensors. Never been on a car. Make me an offer.

I put a Miata engine into a Caterham 7 build about 15 years ago. I spent roughly 80 hours on the engine wiring. The car was plug and play for a Zetec engine and I didn't have to deal with anything but the. I removed a complete wiring harness from a '96 Miata, identified every wire, connection and color then removed all wiring not required for the ECU, shortened the remaining wiring to the correct length and installed and connected it to the car. I turbocharged the engine and used a Link ECU that fit in the original Miata box and had the same wiring connectors. To my complete amazement and joy it started on the first attempt. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUgYhYk7B1M

Hope you have a better time understanding the owner, his accent was hard to understand but still worth the time.

A Caterham without the BLAT just isn't a Caterham to me. I will never own any electric powered car or truck.

Current 5 speed gear boxes use Miata gear sets and parts of the case.