IamScotticus

The Miata I was referring to is the Westfield Miata kit like this https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/13517-danms-westfield-miata/

Here are some suggestions for reading So, let's start with this, the Trials car. Made from the tiny Austin 7, this basic design led to the Lotus 6 then Lotus 7, a wider and longer street version of the Trials car, but not much larger. This means the origins of the 7 come from parts and builds based on the very small cars available in UK at the time. They were cheap, plentiful, and perfect. The charm and attraction in the form of the Lotus 7 is the amazing confluence of parts, from around 5 different cars, working together so well. 60 years ago in England. There is one problem, these cars or parts aren't found in the USA in the average breakers yard. What made the 7 come together easily for UK builders? A chassis expertly built with suspension included and access to parts that suited the car. Back then, there were small engines that fit in the space frame, the transmissions were narrow and simple, the rear axles were light and narrow. I think what challenges 7 scratch builders the most is getting parts that suit, and fit, the car. But how many rear wheel drives are there to pull parts from here and now? You have to build a chassis around the parts. I anticipate that the end result will likely be a chassis much larger than standard, then the available fiberglass body parts will look ridiculous on it. You could have them beaten out of sheet metal. I am in favor of a larger 7 to accept a variety of engines starting with the 2L "Pinto" (see Racer Walsh). Possibly using a Dayna rear diff and T-5 transmission. You want to start with components that have plenty of support in Spares and support from a racing class or other fan base to get help from. All this, if you find the right parts and support, for a completed project under $20k and within your lifetime, will probably not be a Seven, unless you find a Suzuki Samaurai or Geo Tracker donor vehicle. Or Flyin Miata Westfield. I'm all for building projects, but despite it's simplicity, the 7 is a challenge to do well and have some value in it when finished. I've seen too many projects get stalled on something; life, money, family, job, whatever. Better to buy a finished car from a reputable constructor like Birkin, Westfield, Caterham, etc., and tear that apart and build up as you like. At least you have a well engineered chassis to build on. The money will be the same either way. I would like to see you driving and enjoying a 7, taking five years to pay off the loan, not taking five years to build something that may not drive as well and definitely won't have any value.

@Taber10 Please keep up on what you find...

Caterham has used Ford Sierra diffs almost exclusively on all models since 2000. Your situation wouldn't be unique to <2014 Zetec. Ths exception would be if somehow you have a Live Axle, but I doubt Caterham would have put that combination together.

Prestone? Your Google search is as good as mine. Previous advice on flushing is already given on this thread

No, not BV, but probably a DC motor (direct current). It runs on two AA batteries. Not letting go yet. I just got it and want to enjoy having it for a while. No manufactures info on the bottom other than "700".

@Carz01a BV? I'm mot very good at abbreviations. Anyway, I will entertain somewhere around $16K depending on the transportation costs.

I did the orange & green mix and the solidified sludge clogged up my water pump and head passages, and maybe some radiator. If I hadn't drained the coolant a year or two after parking it, Im sure the radiator would have been packed as well. So I need to clean the engine and head out. I did a lot if reading on the Dex-Cool OAT subject. Although I need to be a chemist to fully understand the sludge phenomena, there are some points I came away wirh: OAT coolants are excellent coolants. However, (1) you must not mix them with anything else but water and,(2) all the components and materials the OAT contacts must be compatible with that coolant. OAT will attack some silicone hose. Most kit car builds will have a combination of manufacturers parts, Ford with BL, etc. The coolant you choose needs to be safe for all the components involved.

Here is something I bought from a well known member here. It's like a go-cart. It has a motor

This may help Mines all pitted from being left outside. Boo. Bad Scotticus

What has been left out here is the OE Prowler front bumper. Could someone with image skills put one on a Caterham, just to see what might have been?

Which Loti?

kids drifting, donuts, showing off for a instagram video. this is what your teen will do with shiny toy you buy for them

Always confirm PCD! Bad MOSS! Should have PCD! Sevens will generally have a Triumph 3 3/4" or Ford 4 1/4" PCD. And then it could be something different. Also ensure there is clearance for the calipers. I measured Twogates Minilite repros at: offset: +22mm (.86") the mount face pace from the centerline backspace: 122mm (4.4") the mount face space to the inside rim edge

That's a steal

Yea, you got a unicorn there

Thanks.

If anybody's interested (nobody's interested), the spacing on my 95 Xflow is 11" from square (master cylinder mount) crossmember to rear head face. I think my engine placement is about as far forward as possible. I can't even fit a toothed belt pulley kit. I can't get a socket and bar between the crank nut and the chassis tubes. With only two inches between the bell housing starter bulge and the footwell corner, not enough space available to attempt a push back. Unless I shortened the footwell. nah. Il'l just keep wrench nicking my chassis tubes.

This is the AMC Jeep cap I know fits. Common part number 8084. Most auto parts stores should have one. But I want to get a blue one like bball's. You know, color = power. Actually, I want to know if bball's blue cap has a longer neck than the yellow 8084, which is only 15mm deep and could pop off with little effort. I think too thick a breather hose could walk it off with enough vibration. here's a link to one: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/masterpro-select-caps/masterpro-select-caps-crankcase-breather-cap/omp0/8084/v/a/1201/automotive-car-2002-mini-cooper?q=8084&pos=1

Not a 7, but still very cool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224844906747

@bball7754 have part number for that filler cap?

This more like it https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-600-025-05 Better: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-605-125-05 The capacity could be bigger, The top hole would go to a a Filtered vent or air intake. The top would need holes cut to accept crank case vent hose and rocker cover vent hose. The tank should be checked after every drive. Why this type of tank? It's translucent, you can SEE the oil level. No sight tube to clog up or leak. Sorry, I can't post pictures. I exceeded data limits.

Your oil overflow system is too complicated, low capacity and getting plugged up. Oil separation box with PCV valve needs cleaning out. The Ford cap has a mesh vent thar should have released pressure, but oil mist makes the engine bay dirty. There are caps with breather nipples to run a hose to the catch tank. Burton has a metal one and I got a plastic one for a 70s AMC Javelin. It fits! I will try to find a catch tank better for you.

It's not self-driving, yet

I wonder what Arch would do with it?