IamScotticus

I should have taken that too. But I'm not a fan of the hood anyway. The doors I had were second hand and not correct for my year. Old 80s or 70s pieces.

William Tisnes (say that ten times fast) purchasing manager at Rentech is handling the sales of these parts. I have already got some myself and can say this is 100% legitimate. The parts came off a Cat that were replaced with customer specified custom carbon fiber parts. This was a side project for a customer who had his Mercedes upgraded there. So, yea, this is money and I doubt anyone will miss these spares. I'm sure they have permission. If not permission, perhaps a lien. Doesn't matter. Buy these parts. The packing and shipping was excellent. PM me with any questions. Parts I got: Black windscreen & stanchions Battery tray Washer bottle Doors

Please share the brand and model of the lift!

Yea, heat and penetrant.

I have the part numbers, I just need a picture. Unfortunately, the term "expansion" is used for both open and closed systems. The "cover" Cat has used for the oil catch/coolant expansion bottle is this: The pressure cap for the round expansion tank Land Rover LR3, is this: The square Rover 200&400 EAP 8713 and Oval Rover 600 A111K6004F Cap Is this:

Update: Yes this place does have wheels available Need to call them back. Thanks again

Here... https://www.classicgrpcars.co.uk/products/ I don't see any clams

A poster requested a 7 book list so I'm doing a 7 book thread soon. If you have a book that has enough 7 content in it worth mentioning, could you include it?

Anything ever happen here?

I can do that in another thread. There may already be one.

is the RS14 a standard Sierra calliper? Just fmi.

I have been thinking of options for my refresh. Replacement of the plastic rocker switches with short Lucas type toggles. Doing so will free up room for an AFR meter, or cigarette lighter. This led me to the conclusion that I will need a panel that will support more weight. I am exploring the idea of having a flat panel cut from thick aluminum and attaching it to the frame tubes with metal screws or rivnuts. I suppose a wood panel wood work. It wood be more english.

A good start is Tony Weale's book

Yes, a significant design improvement for the 7. I wouldn't consider it a change that deserves its own series. The back seat bulkhead was moved 2" back. The external chassis measurement didn't change. The change is almost imperceptible to the onlooker. I do agree, the SV would deserve a series number

I have seen references to the S5 designation. Can someone provide a definition? The S1 had both DeDion and live axles. The axles, suspensions and engines came and went, but the basic form of a Lotus 7 has been maintained, metric, imperial, Caged, Arch, Uniroyal or otherwise. Perhaps a series sub designation is necessary when a percentage of changes result in obvious external appearance changes to the basic form. For example, the S2 replaces metal wings and nose with fiberglass. The S3, a wider track, updated instruments panel and roll bar. For Caterham that would include a taller and longer bonnet. S4, we know what that was. Back to S3, there is an S5 derivative. CSR? That would qualify.

Still an S3.

I was reviewing the current Cat build manual and noticed the recommended use of WD-40 on the wing area to be glued to "help [the glue]spread out". Can someone explain how this works?

Thsts a propper Crossflow. I have often wondered if the middle wing supports were necessary?

I thought I had bought some. I will look...I perused the usual vendors, nope. Nada.

I did the butterflies. Good solution. Just get the stainless version. mine rusted.

Good suggestion. Thanks

Good suggestion. Thanks

That is OK. The spare can be thinner. It won't be in the rotation. Even better if I can get a Lotus hub cap on.

A drained battery needs a full recharge before its reliable. You can jump a car, it will (usually) run off the alternator, but the battery may not get the charge it needs, especially an AGM. As it has already been mentioned, AGMs chemistry needs specific cycles, I doubt the alternator is doing that for you. With any dead battery, you don't know how dead it is. So going out on a jump and hoping to be topped off at your destination isn't a good bet. What is a good bet is you won't have any problem finding someone to give you a jump. For this, make it as easy as possible to get jumped without having to take the car apart for the gushing admirers. Make sure you have good terminals to clamp onto or even better, have auxiliary jump connectors routed to the cockpit. This advice is not considering any specific protections for engine and other electronics that may get fried from a jump. I like taking the battery home. It makes stealing the car a little harder. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1335

Another one. Can see the back side on these pics. https://www.historicmotorsport.net/shop/used-parts/electrical-used-parts/reconditioned-mk1-escort-wiper-switch/ Another. I'd say the bezel is a match https://www.retrofordinternational.com/ford-fiesta-mk1-new-genuine-ford-rear-screen-wash-switch-6601-p.asp It may be possible English Ford used Lucas. I wouldn't rule it out. Are you able to find a part number on the housing?