IamScotticus

A BDR with 5 spd. Good for $20k. PO probably had more than that In it. Possibly pushing the limits of that live axle.

I stole it from a bloke on the Westfield forum

I think I read on a MOG forum that the 4/4 MC is a reproduction of the Giirling. Hence its black coating.

Well, as for rebuilding brakes, it's like carbs. You can spend, or invest, your time and energy doing the work going through the learning, or just buy the NOS or rebuilds and go straight to bolting on. If anything, learn to build lines and pressure bleed. You won't save $ on the rebuilding of the components, but on the assembly and bleeding labor, and eliminating many errors. Not the same equation for the guy who is servicing customers cars. If he has the skills and tools to gain a little more profit margin by rebuilding, he should.

Did anyone find out what the Girling 74660152 was OEM on?

Ken at Dave Besn is a goid source for rebuild kits. 2097545802 I'm actually considering fitting an early 80s Mazda RX7 drum brake MC. I may have more new old stock availability. They may be 7/8".

You are living the whole 7 experience

Loose rivet tails in frame tubes wouldn't be heard over all the louder sounds of engine, tire noise, wind buffetting, etc. The formulas of cavity protection should have a viscous creeping property to spread and cover areas not directly applied. Even if all you did was a small shot in every 5/32 rivet hole, it should spread, if that formula has that property. I heard something about rust prevention "cubes". I didn't get enough info to get a trade name and I haven't found anything yet. The prospect of a loose solid granular substance doing the protection is interesting to me.

After paint, will you apply one of the Cavity rust inhibitiors like Fluid Film or Cosmoline? I have a long list of candidates if you're interested.

My chassis and suspension is a mess because of powdercoating. All over the thing there are areas I need to sand down and recover. It will never be done right until a full tear down is done. Paint is so easy to repair and re-apply.

I can understand why you would want a color match, for authenticity. But I doubt even Lotus paid much attention to the shades of grey the chassis were painted, as long as it was a shade that would reveal cracks. I wouldn't be surprised if all the various chassis builders used different shades.

can you take a sample to one of the hardware stores with a digital color matching code machine?

I'll have ask him how he gets his.

So... What did Marina Man have?

On the cylinders, they may have been increased in capacity from the standard saloon for lower pressure on a light weight car.

These shoes look like mine. Some things have to be checked to be sure, but the info is interesting. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ferodo/1511230 AUSTIN AUSTIN Maxi Hatchback (Year of Construction 04.1969 - 10.1980, 68 - 90 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Hatchback (ADO 67) (Year of Construction 05.1973 - 10.1983, 45 - 91 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Estate (ADO 67) (Year of Construction 08.1975 - 12.1983, 58 - 76 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Maxi II (Year of Construction 10.1980 - 12.1982, 72 - 91 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Saloon (Year of Construction 02.1973 - 12.1984, 56 - 69 PS, Petrol FORD FORD Escort Mk1 Saloon (AFH, ATH) (Year of Construction 01.1968 - 02.1976, 34 - 72 PS, Petrol) FORD Escort Mk2 Saloon (ATH) (Year of Construction 12.1974 - 08.1980, 45 - 48 PS, Petrol) FORD Escort Mk1 Estate (ADH) (Year of Construction 06.1968 - 02.1976, 40 - 57 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Saloon (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1972, 46 - 76 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Coupe (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1972, 46 - 140 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Estate (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1970, 46 - 82 PS, Petrol) 1200, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1198 ccm, 46 PS 1200, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1198 ccm, 48 PS 1500, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1500 ccm, 58 PS 1500 GT, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1500 ccm, 76 PS 1600 GT, Year of Construction 10.1967 - 03.1970, 1599 ccm, 82 PS LOTUS LOTUS Europa S1 Coupe (Year of Construction 10.1966 - 10.1970, 78 PS, Petrol) LOTUS Europa S2 Coupe (Year of Construction 05.1970 - 04.1976, 106 PS, Petrol) MORRIS MORRIS Marina Saloon (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 12.1979, 60 - 95 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina Coupe (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 06.1980, 57 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina Estate (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 10.1975, 78 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Ital Saloon (Year of Construction 07.1980 - 03.1984, 60 - 79 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Ital Estate (Year of Construction 07.1980 - 03.1984, 60 - 79 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina II Saloon (Year of Construction 10.1975 - 09.1978, 50 - 73 PS, Diesel, Petrol) MORRIS Marina III (Year of Construction 10.1978 - 10.1980, 57 - 106 PS, Petrol) TRIUMPH TRIUMPH 1300 Saloon (Year of Construction 01.1967 - 12.1970, 76 PS, Petrol) TRIUMPH Dolomite Saloon (Year of Construction 01.1977 - 12.1981, 59 PS, Petrol)

While on the subject of these, there are two articles you should have, as well as the Haynes manuals for Ital and Marina. The Ital Axle Debate- by Graham Skykes (Low-lying Archives) Compatibility of the Ital Axle with the British Leyland parts bin- by Ellie Boone Low-lying Nov 2017 Unfortunately, these aren't about the brakes

What a blast from the past. I spent so much time in JC Witney catalogs. So much of thst stuff looked really cheap. But I didn't care. It was there.

What are ya using for diff oil? It's interesting, Caterham has always written in the build manuals that the axles are Itals, but the narrower hub keys are Marinas', and probably the cylinders too.

Try Derek Moore at Caterham Midlands ( previously Classic Carriage) 01455 841616. They supplied the axles to Caterham back then. And there's Skip Harris "The Marina Man" marinaman@marinaman.org. He should know how to get them if anyone. I would say early TR 7 4spd shoes would work but the more I look into the TR7s axles, the more minor differences I find, so I'm not sure about that. I need them for my car too as spares. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/drive-it-like-a-race-car-1975-austin-marina-gt

That can't end well. At least he's ahead of the output end

Want a Jim Clark edition

delete

I can't make a particular recommendation, but I can make a suggestion... Some questions to ask: For what kind of storage? Temporary outdoors? For an occasional shower? In the garage between outings? In the garage for months or yesrs at a time? Your enemy is moisture. Any non breathing material should be only for temporary use. Any long term covering, or indoors cover needs to breathe. For my use, I use two low thread count bed sheets for garage storage. I have learned that the pedal box cover (if you have one) will trap enough moisture to rot out the frame it's covering over a long term, in my case, but probably not on a regular driver.

@Steve in Lititz PA I have you to thank! I didn't know I needed that part. I was wondering where the clips went