IamScotticus

Got on the mailing list.

Is your engine on a test stand?

The CarFax data knows if I changed the oil after the oil life meter runs out. I never went past 5%

The seller should be willing to send you a picture of the items with a unique identification that you specify, like the item with two dollar bills in a cross pattern. Something that verifies the seller is in possession of the item, or has access to it. If they can't provide proof, walk away. It hurts, but these frauds are really good at stealing photos and making listing for things they don't have. And the old "selling for a friend" or dead relative, etc. I bought a carb and manifold from a seller in France. I asked for a unique identifier which the seller did. All went well.

Missed opportunities, right? If only I had snagged Ford.com, etc, when they were all available.

Just think what would happen if the forum name became up for grabs

Yes, and thanks. One thing I learned while searching for distributors is they are very inexpensive, even refurbished.

I would have a fund-o-meter sticky on the top to show the finance status. If it ever falls to a negative the lights go out.

This is a good example of why I gladly support the forum. It takes money and work to keep it going.

nice paint. not even any overspray on the hole edges

would love to see a build thread with pics. no two 7s are the same

Forget wood and cobblibg together bits. Buy tools made for the purpose. Allstar chassis stands are very versatile and very capable of supporting a 7, and moving 7 around the shop. Something you will be doing more than you know. Also, these will get you the height you need to drop in the engine. https://allstarperformance.com/chassis-dollies-all10625/ Find these at Jegs, Summit, and others. Just call to make sure a seller has them in stock before you order. Here is a link to a previous discussion https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14187-wtb-chassis-stands/

I saw that. the purple version of VP Frosty only protects to zero degrees F. The Blue racing version has no freeze protection, but is more efficient. I can deal with the freezing issue, what I don't see mentioned are the pressure and boiling point numbers. WTH? perhaps its not an issue if the system is sealed properly.

I would opt for this https://vpracingfuels.com/product/stay-frosty-hi-performance-formula/?c=495&

Here is another coating option. https://swaintech.com/

In an effort to help, and a good reason to clear some junk out, here are some measurements from my 95/6 LC live axle chassis. These pics are taken standing over the left (drivar's) side. measurement from rear tube inside edge to mid tube inside edge is 20.75" Yes, the squab seat base boards fit inside these two. Distance from front tube inside edge to rear tube inside edge 42 3/8" Notice the angle of the cable clutch pedal lever. This much distance shouldn't be necessary with a hydraulic clutch. These pedals are really high Also, a measurement from the center of my brake pedal to the center of rear bulkhead is 50.75"

I would consider an external wrap only after a coating to preserve the headers. One that coats the insides as well. I believe Jet Hot is popular for this. https://www.jet-hot.com/ No experience, but The combination of the both should be very effective. I have felt the heat, and agree, especially in a LHD and left side exhaust, it gets very toasty. I carpeted my tunnel to be able to wear shorts and not get burned. Also considering pulling my inside Lamiplate pannel to put insulation in the wall. The external exhaust is part of the equation.

I love Sevens. No part of a Seven feels like a car.

OATs are excellent as long as all the components in the system can tolerate it. The negative is they will congeal if mixed with anything else. I guess you could say that about other coolants as well. But OATs like Dex- Cool seem to be the worst. One might think, with cars like 7s, things tend to break at the worst time. Using a coolant that is available everywhere, and compatible wirh many materials solves a lot of potential problems. How does Blue tolerate temporary mixing wirh Ethelene Glycol?

Ok, but what is "ordinary"? OAT? GREEN Ethel Glycol? There isnt a standard anymore.

Oh that's good stuff

Good info. Will look for the books. Probably easier to find the books than the engines

This head has had other sins committed on it. It could make a pope blush. Porting an exhautst through into a head bolt hole. The fix I believe is to sleeve with a brass valve guide.

One gets to buy another $100 of Evans coolant and flush. I suspect that with lower pressure on the hoses, the use of less flexible clamp rings like the Gates power grips are good permanent solutions.

From what I've read so far, the axle casing is vulnerable when thrashed with wider, and stickier tyres are on a race track. 6"< street rubber should have enough skip to avoid axle damage. I read somewhere that, though not the same handling as a DeDion, the Ital live axle is lighter than the complete DeDion tube and diff assembly. But still more unsprung weight than the DeDion tube alone. I think my plate is coming off or getting holes.