IamScotticus

Found the problem! Low blinker fluid!

Looking for a machinists flat bar for checking flatness and warpage of things like head faces, port faces, block tops, flywheel and pulley runout. And feeler gauges.... All that cool engine stuff better left to a professional...

Good reads. Damn pot holes! Im constantly scouting my streets for the damn things and they're everywhere. I know when they jar me and my Colorado on 32s, they'll be hard on a 7. I had a collision with a spun out '64 F150, hitting it at 60 at night in a VW Rabbit. I looked down to change a radio station, looking up and had about two seconds. Decided to stay on the road and veer right but still hit him. I was unscathed, amazingly, but the mental thing stuck for a few years. I was terrified going over hills. I puckered if I couldn't see what was on the other side.

90s Cat Live axle, uprated front wishbone cycle wing conversion FIA bar with rollover hoop. non standard seats, unknown.

Backfres=lean conditions. Intake manifold leak? Exhaust manifold leak? Idle mix adjustment?

Somebody made them for Birkin. Nothing on Birkin web site.

what seats are those? Do they have a name?

If your damage is skin only, a good paint less dent repair man can get this very close to straight and once tears filled, and painted, you might be able to live with it. take off the boot cover and show the top tube and inside of that area. put a straight edge across the rear top basket tube and side to find bends. Is the fender (wing) damaged?

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make voltage reading records with a multi meter on the battery battery after running, charging, starting and failing. this data should tell you if you have a drain down problem and possibly a charging problem. All connections to alternator, battery, starter, etc. need cleanup as a maintenance item.

Ive seen very good work done by metal fab guys. Im going to say the work is possible but the problem might be the insurance agreeing to it. "Body shops" don't typically work on tubular space frame structures. The shop that will might either be too expensive or they may not be considered a credible automotive repair shop, like more of a craft shop or artisan. Vintage aircraft restoration might be too much but worth asking. If a shop has a skilled metal man, annealing and shaping will not be anything new to him. He could pull off the damaged skin, flatten it out, make a template, cut a new piece, form it and rivet it the same holes, then weld the seams, etc. That would be the easy part, it goes down hill from there as far as what you will be satisfied with.. We tend to be a perfectionist group. As for the "arch", not sure what you're referring to. Any fiberglass repair would most likely be unsatisfactory, only a replacement will do. Fame work, they better do the same welding techniques. Its unrealistic to find a welding shop that can do the body AND set up the rest of the car properly. That's the difficult thing to explain to an adjuster. I would be calling all the dealers of seven type cars and asking who does this work and be willing to send the car to them. remove the fuel tank first. Try Supraformance. Call TM Technologies info@tinmantech.com for some recommendations.. Theyre located in N. San Juan. Some pictures will be helpful.

Force= wrong. sorry.

where?

I like! https://www.carlingtech.com/combination-switches-csw-series I would use this in combination with a Blink Stop if necessary. https://blinkstop.co.uk/shop/blinkstop

I've been shopping for my next bat.

do compression checks. #3 might show something.

The only discomfort I've had in 100 deg F days (Texas) is knee burning on the tunnel wall wearing shorts. Nothing further back bothered me. I would install only back to the seat, but not further unless its warranted. It was so hot, I worried the carpet adhesive would ignite.

Insulating at least the L foot well front pedal box and sides is something I must do as well. Im still on the fence about pipe wrapping. I don't care for using adhesives for this purpose. I glued my tunnel carpet and regret it now. Are metal snaps something the heat barrier sheets will accept?

I count 15 coils on your springs. I have two sets that are 7-8 coils. I think your springs are an older standard. there are better options now. You need to know your front end weight and go spring shopping. The pic of my car is loaded.

I ask because my wet sump pan has a bottom even with the BH and has a upward taper to the front. it is a pretty good skid. It came on the engine as I bought it. I don't know if it was supplied by Caterham or if it was a custom fabrication, but its a great middle option. Im sure some oil slapping is going on in there. If you could find one...

'71-'73 Pinto 1600. If you have to look up by car. Its the only one in the states that ran the Xflow like we run it. Local parts will likely be ACCEL 4014 & 4015 MSD 31159 AC Delco 9044J NGK 52408 Denso 6714060 These are cut to fit the 1600. none of these include a long enough Primary HT wire.

dont neglect to loosen all the A arm suspension bushes any time you raise off the ground, especially for damper service. If your car hasn't had them refreshed since new, they may be a factor in not maintaining the proper stance.

I get about 4" with taller tyres. using 185/ 70 R13. Is your sump even with the bell housing? or lower? you might have a need for dampers with more adjustment. can you put up pictures of the dampers?

Seat, "BDR" pre-S type, Cloth with Sliding Rails and Headrest, 22.2 lbs. Roll Bar, FIA, Caterham Live Axle, 1996, sans Petty Strut, 21.2 lbs. Rocker Cover, Caterham, Kent Xflow, Cast Alloy, 2 lbs 14.3 oz. Battery, Lead Acid, Group U1 Garden Tractor, 19 lbs. Bell Housing, Iron, Ford, PN: 71BB7505AC, 23.5 lbs. Silencer, Cheesman, PN: 3GX085A, 1-3/4", 5" x 23.5", 7.10 lbs. Wheel, Alloy, 13"x7", 3.75" PCD, Panasport/ Minilite type (unmarked), 11.56 lbs. Head, Kent XFlow, Iron, with valves and dual springs, no rocker assembly or studs, 35 lbs. Steering Rack, Caterham, with tie rod ends, 9.46 Lbs Tie rod ends, Triumph, x2, 1.37 Lbs Wing, Rear Left with cut-out, No stone shield, with Lights, 4.75Lbs Wing, Rear Right, with stone shield, with lights, 6.96 Lbs