7Westfield

on a street app, the 5 port makes more sense that's how I did mine

not staked, because it's covering a low pressure passage, but still a real PITA if you can put it in a mill, a cobalt drill at low speed with lots of pressure should work most people just go at it with a dremel, then drill to 7/16 and tap 1/4 NPT the one on the front marked X is where a lot of FF builders put the oil back in with dry sump systems. eliminates a couple of corners in the flow path

How did they plug that port? epoxy? FF engine builders used to just sandwich a piece of beer can with the gasket, now we have gaskets without the hole sometimes fill the bottom af manifold with epoxy, but I never saw one filled on the head side I don't think anybody uses hot tank anymore--you can't get the nasty chemicals A lot have gone to baking the blocks, then shot blasting it they look like new almost any good cleaning process will trash the cam bearings don't forget to take out all the end plugs in the oil passages, including the ball bearing at the back

start with Dave Bean

feed it thru a relay?

this is how you get mech tach drive I assume this will fit the older blocks as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/392053020391?hash=item5b482e56e7:g:QJ8AAOSwwAdbC4KP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4K%2FPGbMC3slYrLjD7zi717xXSgtb5nh02Z%2FUToc5JeQacLiu5%2FFZko7%2BfEqxeaNXLD9jgMC1VfnYpEv4cfswTxZXL%2Fc702xrptOSap2wdSo17PBpFOzVHIviuYfaVbir3iL70RuJCYD20P4czj3l6pvBSxrv2OfX1Q7qxogypl0SbbVnG8tz1mO59nsMZCXy9Uw%2FIwS4raSkVCslAU2B8eqZkZEsblF46g3jQ9T7pVSM6XwHu7YT4MbgIJi3q5DQBJW4du8owlaxJUq95gp%2B2UzMXTWfXUiWX%2BX%2FCalpN5zg|tkp%3ABk9SR-yuo6uVYg same seller has the gearbox as well I probably have one I'd sell too, but can't get to those boxes right now best have your Smith's unit tested first I think they are very expensive to rebuild, so you might not want to use it I don't even know who to send it to, now that Nisonger has quit the repair biz

Halon is no longer available Dupont FE-36 and 3M Novec are the replacements there are also some AFFF -foam- systems, but they aren't SFI rated, so racers don't use them

I'd call that overkill we don't run one that big on a Formula Ford As for mounting it there, remember any heat it dissipates is going to go right into the water, so I question if there's any net gain

thanks I ordered a set wish they were convex, but still prob better than what I have

I just used 1/4' Lexan for my Westfield. Any good auto glass shop should be able to cut you a piece of flat laminated glass, or tell you who can. Where did that mirror come from? I want a set. Charlie

HO LEE CHIT

anybody wants Jake's book, I have a very nice spare copy $30 posted US Charlie

Facet pumps large variety of pressure ranges American made

well, let's just say that I don't HAVE anything I'm running a mid 80's RX-7 master cylinder, and it is ok for street + autocross

don't know what the lower plug is, but the round bulge between them is the main feed along that side lost your number, call me if you still have mine Charlie Schmidt

Russ That plug toward the rear is the water drain....... However, about an inch below it there is a rounded bulge that runs the length of the block. That's the main oil gallery. At the front end, facing forward, there is a 1/4 NPT plug you can use. It's actually where a lot of formula fords put the oil feed.

no idea about the Ital units, but for reference, the cylinders on my Ford axle are .70

You might check with Advanced Racing Suspensions in Indy 917-271-7100 they look like the Carreras on the Titan FF in my garage if so, they can rebuild/revalve them Charlie

look for a tag on head---right front corner IIRC, next to valve cover

Dave bean probably has them in aluminum

I can't see a $35 mech tach being worth the time to install it, plus needing to figure out a drive for it. If you do it, probably need a generator from a Bugeye Sprite, they drove tach from rear of generator. Being a 1962, I would have expected it to be mech originally. Can't recall the name, but there is a repair place in Albequerque that I used years ago, might check with them

No particular knowledge, but I always thought the manufacturer determined that---whatever they put on the original paperwork

someone running Pikes Peak? LOL

Hylomar removes easily with a rag and lacquer thinner or acetone