7Westfield

If looking for a 5 speed, AFAIK the only one that fits without a LOT of work is the Ford type 9. And, it's a fair bit of work. I did it to my Westfield several years ago. The newer stuff, like a Miata or Mustang/Ranger are too fat. There are kits to put a Datsun unit in Sprites or Triumphs, but pricey, and you'd be looking for someone to make you a one off. What it took for mine type 9 box--only ever sent to this country in Merkur xr4ti, and those have the wrong input shaft for pre-xflow or xflow, it's too long. You can get the correct one from England, but $$$. I shortened mine. Some folks complain about the first gear ratio being too low--there again $ to England. Burton sells a spacer plate to go between trans + bellhousing if you don't want to shorten it BH3 bellhousing from Burton Power--put starter on right side, and cut away most of the left side mount to clear footwell Titan concentric slave from Burton--no room for external slave new clutch disc to match T-9 splines use transmission mount from old box, tunnel was not wide enough for the T9 piece new driveshaft, splines and length different I got mine from NW Propshafts in England nobody in this country has the right ends and I got it in about 5 days I was able to use the frame mount in the Westy, with a bit of trimming, but don't be surprised at having to weld in a new one, the T9 mount bolts are about 6" farther back Charlie

what engine do you have? Is the clutch cable or hydraulic? cables can get very stiff, as can the pedal pivot

If you go the way the 2nd engine is, you have to figure a way to seal that bolt hole... I'm assuming that it's the "flat" style of plug, just a slight dome to it By the picture of the plug on Moss, there should be a step in the hole for it to sit against. It just taps down to that , and then you use a blunt punch in the center to push the dome in a bit. I don't see a mark from that being done last time. It will push the rim out a bit tighter in the hole. I haven't done one in YEARS, but our go to sealant was always Permatex #2 If the bore is straight all the way (no step) it's a cup style. They just drive in, dome to the inside. Use a big socket to drive them

there's always Aerovault

While the weather holds, I'd drive the Cat to a trailer lot, and ask to drive it into a 6x12 It will be tight both length and width, but doable V nose a def help in this case, it will give you a bit more room up front for tie downs Inside will be bare unless you spec a wall covering Tie downs will be extra You'll want them as far fore and aft as possible. You don't want the straps to go straight down to the tie point, as that will not control shifting back and forth, like a flatter angle will. You don't want the car to kiss the front under braking. Tires....a real can of worms On another (racing) forum I'm on, a lot of them replace tires every 3--4 years, regardless of mileage. UV is a killer. OTOH ours are prob 5 years old and lookin good. We put about 6-7000 miles a year on them, and I pull them and store them in the shed over winter. Also a pretty good theft deterrent. I wouldn't run anything smaller than a 14"--we are on 205/15s More tire spreads the load, and 15 keeps the rpm down The OE tires will probably be some no-names from some backwater, good for a couple of years at most. We currently run Carlisle, and they seem good. Goodyear Marathons are pretty good, too. Trailer tires lead a rough life, low mileage aside. They get a lot of neglect, rubbed on curbs (they do have a heavier sidewall) and so forth A spare will cost extra Brakes I don't know the numbers, but I think you are under the radar on that. But, they are sure nice, esp with a lighter weight tow vehicle. If you get a dual axle, consider putting on both axles, and get the self adjusting ones. Trailer brakes are a PITA to adjust. Ask if your proposed tow vehicle has a built in brake controller--if not, you'll have to install one, and run another wire to the back. The bigger stuff, like pickups and SUV's have come with wiring in place for years, not sure about the smaller vehicles.

Well, it sure stops the quick snatch plan....LOL I use a lock during race season, then pull all 4 for the winter

If you want to spend some bucks, a friend uses a Porsche Cayenne to tow his vintage racer 912 in (i think) a 20 foot enclosed. I tow a friend's vintage formula ford in a 14 footer with my Suburban 2500. Overkill for your app. Sometimes use it for the Westfield as well, but I do have a small open trailer as well Many 7s would go in a 6x12, but very difficult to get around to the tiedowns, etc, and your anchors would need to be right out in the corners. A 7x14 is just easier, if you can deal with it when not in use. I don't recall seeing a 12 with dual axles, might have to be special order, but be sure to get decent size wheels and tires. If you go open, darn near anything should pull it. As we are winding down the FF deal, I keep thinking of putting a hitch on my 20 year old accord.....

https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-an-su-carburettor crude pcv?

Before I dry sumped my 1600, I just had a vent from the valve cover to a catch tank Put the tank as high as possible I plugged the hole in the block where the stock vent was (right above the fuel pump) at high rpm, the cam will throw oil up that system and overload it

what I figured... mine was sheet metal screws, I'm switching to rivnuts

pre-lit Westfields also have the scuttle riveted to the vertical panel, with a lot of rivets. The vert panel is tucked under the back edge of the horizontal shelf and riveted as well. Would be PITA to remove scuttle assy. I'm making a new dash panel, to move things around a bit, and remove unused switches, etc. How is the dash mounted in a S2/3?

I was actually considering polished aluminum,either embossed or diamond plate

thanks kinda confirms my suspicions I'll just make a new metal set after they get painted this winter

Anyone ever use the rattle can bedliner spray? I'm considering it for the front of rear wings, instead of the present metal guards.

I run the 888's hard to beat them for all around use

and, you used to be able to buy the kit to install it !!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153048650510?_skw=sprite+starter+switch&itmmeta=01K5Y348HK413BMFMM4X4EZQ32&hash=item23a269130e:g:a08AAOSwSatbFMkR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eSgjrQhLqXR%2FaUJneLxZ2Ij0VC this is the correct starter switch for a bugeye sprite It mounts beside the battery, operated by a "choke" cable on the dash designed to work with Lucas inertia starters If using a starter with a solenoid, you just wire the solenoid terminal to the main on the starter, so that they both get power together

Since there are virtually no shops with experience on our cars, your labor estimate will probably be.... "as long as it takes" times x $/hour they'll be figuring it out as they go thankfully, 7's are -for the most part- fairly simple machines

just to be clear, I suggested the washers as a test then make a proper spacer if needed

Pull the starter and check for marks on pinion or face of ring gear. Put a washer on each bolt, between starter and bellhousing and try it If the noise goes away, you have your answer

Tom If you decide to do it, I'll give you our builder's number in CO he can fix you up with one and the proper coil Ed he says he's never seen a side entry cap. and he used to rebuild a lot of them, until parts dried up

caution...don't order a dist cap for a Fiesta they are different from a Pinto

hopefully you mean just without the vacuum parts---don't eliminate the mech advance that's what mine is---mech only I think there was a side entry cap I will ask our builder a good set of stock points should be fine Accel is prob overkill for most of us I occasionally think of changing mine to electronic, just putting in a Ford pickup, and using either a Ford box or GM HEI OTOH it ain't broke, so.....

First of all, FF does not require "points only" the rule is--no amplifier units, so the (crappy) Pertronix and similar are fine, as long as they are a trigger only The 123 units are not scca legal because they store 2 maps, which can be swapped electronically. That said, RMVR has allowed them, as long as the trigger wire is exposed and not connected they are wonderful I have a Ford unit in the westy, with a set of the Accel HD points and mech only advance Don't put a pertronix on a xflow--they WILL fail not if, just when our engine guy has had at least 2 fail on the dyno, right out of the box Ford parts are Motorcraft--not Mopar LOL DO NOT eliminate the advance for a street car you will have starting and drivability issues We keep it in FF for starting and good idle, but we set the timing at 3500-4000 rpm most seem to end up at 37-38 degrees @ that rpm Bosch dist with points in the FF for us I've not had issues switching between points and electronic units--I think most tachs are smart enough I spent the weekend at RA helping a friend with his Elva. They were chasing a misfire when I got there, and we swapped everything multiple times --finally traced it to an intermittent coil-- no tach issues just be sure you have the correct impedance coil for your trigger unit

My Westy has a dongle from a BT under the hood, attached to the fuse box. This winter, I'll probably move it under the dash. I also run the BT, or whatever it is, thru a timer, so it only runs a couple of hours a day too many reports of those things cooking a bat, or starting fires