7Westfield

You can also use the highway mile markers to set it by mileage, that's how I did mine Use a 10 mile run--at 1 mile they aren't that accurate, but at 10 it averages out

One downside to 100LL is availability. It's illegal for road use, but there's a catch. Contrary to some beliefs, it is NOT illegal for an airport to sell it to you in a jug. Some airports try to tell you they can't sell it for non-aviation uses, but they can if they want to. There are some airports that try to deny sales, but they are uninformed, or just don't want the hassle of small sales. So, buy it in jugs and take it home, If using a self serve pump, do NOT fill the car while you're there, that will be trouble Tell them it's for a race car, or your generator A few years ago, I took a generator in for a carb tune---the guy said the carb was plain worn out, unfixable and unobtainium, but the cleanest one he had ever seen--most of it's life on avgas cuz that's what we had at the track We've run Formula Fords on avgas for years, but next year we will try pump 91 with lead substitute, mainly for convenience just pick it up when heading out for the weekend, and put the leftovers in the driver's 911.

I run 91 octane alcohol free, as I can get it easily here. I add lead substitute sporadically. Next time the head is off, it will get seats. Avgas does not contain alcohol, in general, they aren't going to allow that crap anywhere near an aircraft. But, there is a small group of aircraft rated for MOGAS. However, the FAA, and I assume CAA, are testing lead free fuels. 100LL is on short notice. The reason for keeping lead in avgas comes down to not wanting to mess with the storage and stability qualities. The engines have had hard seats for years. You should replace the rubber lines with something like Gates Barricade. I've not really heard of trouble with injected cars, their components should be new enough. Storage is the main culprit, so running the carbs dry over winter will help. The black goo some have seem is probably from hose breakdown, usually you see a white powder in the carb. Apparently alcohol doesn't play well with aluminum. Also, if you have a fuel cell, the older bladders and foam are not resistant.

already on it they seem a bit slow authorizing an account

If it's just the center electrode moving, I would think the ground electrode would keep it from falling out

don't know I used a Burton BH3 starter about 4 o'clock on intake side just checked pegasus--both have 110 teeth, but 2L ring gear is 10.12" ID 1600 is 10 So, I wonder what this flywheel I have came from...it measures up as a 2L, but has 135 teeth

Scott 2 liter flywheel won't fit a 1600 it bolts up, but just a bit larger ring gear, so you can't get the starter in

no plans at present what I got was a complete Lola T202, in boxes, virtually all new parts problem is, the frame is crap, between the damage and sketchy repair attempts I need to find drawings and specs before I can do anything

better than that, according to some paper with it, it's a fresh Arnie Lyoning FF build

about what I expected thanks

thanks MV any idea what the difference would be, vs a 711? obviously not much, or it couldn't be a FF block

I picked up a trailer full of formula ford parts the other day, and this xflow was in the mix No numbers at the back, where you find 711M, etc But, at the front end.... Is this what it looks like? Seems overkill for a 115hp FF engine

the adapter plates I've used have all been NPT--but check it anyway what thread is on the cooler BSP?

IIRC xflows only take 4 quarts with a stock pan, so you're not horribly under filled I'd look for a used stock pan with pickup tube--if yours is modified, who knows what they did to the tube do you need front or rear sump? what oil are you using? you want ZDDP additive

I think you are right on the "R", but since you have no radio... https://www.ebay.com/itm/166754639181?itmmeta=01J4Q1JP7DMNVRH97TB1D84C4Z&hash=item26d359dd4d:g:8QMAAOSwN3FmPYJo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHEFCD%2BbD8X3zxALyvEqwkP0%2FD9rOUTBupB0xxemnFIBCQrJUtovhVjq4au9oyJ8oz4pV0iOmWL4%2BvGzn9%2BZtwypGJU3wIHSjknnPtcT1qGYXQID7EGm%2B18T2QG%2Br5LS%2BwCdXXobWM4C3TzpaLnvFF%2BjgKfBr5f2vU%2FccHRLGjoe%2BunYGKRVcYOhyznA4nJMklcJEphxsP42X8rE5y5gxh8UJcAXfg6Cke4CVSHUKoFz0Q1LK161p0Bw1h%2F9jtu8kA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-bjyuGlZA or search for them by the stock # 4930

I run NGK BCP6ES in both 1600's In my Westfield and a formula ford they come gapped about .030 and that seems fine 20-25 lbs torque I forget how NGK runs their temp scale if the B8 is colder, and you have higher than stock compression, I'd think it was OK too

Let me know if you do...I have a like new one quart unit with mount clamps and filter block that I no longer need

4 port pump won't fit a 7. Engine mount interferes with filter starting from scratch, best budget at least $2500 if going with new parts I only did mine because I had all the bits laying around, and still spent a bunch on hose and fittings

A friend tows a vintage racing 912 in an enclosed trailer with a cayenne

take a pair of 3/8 bolts--4-5" long and cut the heads off you then put them in the lowest holes in the bellhousing--3+9 o'clock they slide into the holes on the engine, carrying the weight so you can line things up easier put the disc in by eye, and tighten the pp bolts just finger tight should be able to wiggle things enough to get input shaft in, then slide gearbox off and tighten PP bolts dowel and tape also works

I've used bicycle cables on vintage race cars for years you do want brake cables, not shift cables

English axle is from Fords--- Cortina 1/2 Escort 1/2 the gear set comes out the front of the diff-like a Ford 9" 4x4.25"

Are these a "metalastic" bushing? If so, GMT Racing has several sizes on hand Dave Bean also has a few

it looks rusty, just like the trucks

those red lines have been around for years, generally fine, but nothing wrong with changing it what diameter is the cylinder they swapped out?