7Westfield

https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-an-su-carburettor crude pcv?

Before I dry sumped my 1600, I just had a vent from the valve cover to a catch tank Put the tank as high as possible I plugged the hole in the block where the stock vent was (right above the fuel pump) at high rpm, the cam will throw oil up that system and overload it

what I figured... mine was sheet metal screws, I'm switching to rivnuts

pre-lit Westfields also have the scuttle riveted to the vertical panel, with a lot of rivets. The vert panel is tucked under the back edge of the horizontal shelf and riveted as well. Would be PITA to remove scuttle assy. I'm making a new dash panel, to move things around a bit, and remove unused switches, etc. How is the dash mounted in a S2/3?

I was actually considering polished aluminum,either embossed or diamond plate

thanks kinda confirms my suspicions I'll just make a new metal set after they get painted this winter

Anyone ever use the rattle can bedliner spray? I'm considering it for the front of rear wings, instead of the present metal guards.

I run the 888's hard to beat them for all around use

and, you used to be able to buy the kit to install it !!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153048650510?_skw=sprite+starter+switch&itmmeta=01K5Y348HK413BMFMM4X4EZQ32&hash=item23a269130e:g:a08AAOSwSatbFMkR&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eSgjrQhLqXR%2FaUJneLxZ2Ij0VC this is the correct starter switch for a bugeye sprite It mounts beside the battery, operated by a "choke" cable on the dash designed to work with Lucas inertia starters If using a starter with a solenoid, you just wire the solenoid terminal to the main on the starter, so that they both get power together

Since there are virtually no shops with experience on our cars, your labor estimate will probably be.... "as long as it takes" times x $/hour they'll be figuring it out as they go thankfully, 7's are -for the most part- fairly simple machines

just to be clear, I suggested the washers as a test then make a proper spacer if needed

Pull the starter and check for marks on pinion or face of ring gear. Put a washer on each bolt, between starter and bellhousing and try it If the noise goes away, you have your answer

Tom If you decide to do it, I'll give you our builder's number in CO he can fix you up with one and the proper coil Ed he says he's never seen a side entry cap. and he used to rebuild a lot of them, until parts dried up

caution...don't order a dist cap for a Fiesta they are different from a Pinto

hopefully you mean just without the vacuum parts---don't eliminate the mech advance that's what mine is---mech only I think there was a side entry cap I will ask our builder a good set of stock points should be fine Accel is prob overkill for most of us I occasionally think of changing mine to electronic, just putting in a Ford pickup, and using either a Ford box or GM HEI OTOH it ain't broke, so.....

First of all, FF does not require "points only" the rule is--no amplifier units, so the (crappy) Pertronix and similar are fine, as long as they are a trigger only The 123 units are not scca legal because they store 2 maps, which can be swapped electronically. That said, RMVR has allowed them, as long as the trigger wire is exposed and not connected they are wonderful I have a Ford unit in the westy, with a set of the Accel HD points and mech only advance Don't put a pertronix on a xflow--they WILL fail not if, just when our engine guy has had at least 2 fail on the dyno, right out of the box Ford parts are Motorcraft--not Mopar LOL DO NOT eliminate the advance for a street car you will have starting and drivability issues We keep it in FF for starting and good idle, but we set the timing at 3500-4000 rpm most seem to end up at 37-38 degrees @ that rpm Bosch dist with points in the FF for us I've not had issues switching between points and electronic units--I think most tachs are smart enough I spent the weekend at RA helping a friend with his Elva. They were chasing a misfire when I got there, and we swapped everything multiple times --finally traced it to an intermittent coil-- no tach issues just be sure you have the correct impedance coil for your trigger unit

My Westy has a dongle from a BT under the hood, attached to the fuse box. This winter, I'll probably move it under the dash. I also run the BT, or whatever it is, thru a timer, so it only runs a couple of hours a day too many reports of those things cooking a bat, or starting fires

the glass shop should have your answer I wouldn;t be surprised if it's just a good silicon caulk

given straightcut's hint--try minimania.com they don't show a pos ground unit on the website, but maybe they can find one

Just to be sure.....you are NOT using DOT 5 fluid?

it won't be a problem as long as the engine/trans is still level issue is when you tilt the front of the assembly up to clear at the front that yoke is probably about 4" long if you have a drain plug in the trans, just drain it before you lift no drain plug? have a pan ready amazing how far a quart of oil can spread on the floor

yes drain trans first, or you will have a big puddle when you tip the front up

If I was going to make a tubular arm, I'd look at making the tube full length, with a tie rod end as the outer joint. Put a loop above or below the tube to accept the sway bar bushings Would need to replace as a pair to avoid twist in the sway bar Not a visual match, but should work fine

Aren't the shock bodies threaded?