Austin David

Not threadjacking (that S-1 is pretty neat) but will I get in trouble if I put an elan shift knob in my Caterham?

I still want one (an umbrella). I have experimentally determined that the half-hood is about as good as "keep moving" in terms of rain protection. The proper hood is significantly better. Half-hood is more a bimini for sun coverage, but it makes buffeting worse and obviously requires the windshield. The tonneau fits behind seats when not deployed (zero space occupied) and 100% protects the interior from sun while parked.

Does anyone know what this umbrella is? I was chatting with a friend overseas and their photos have a few cars with umbrellas of varying description

update: (some) new coolant hoses My kit was mostly complete, but I was missing much of the coolant hoses. I acquired some stand-ins on short notice to finish the build, but today I finally replaced the modine side with silicone. Also I used heat-shrink clamps for the silicone-silicone joints, I love them so far. I used parts from Pegasus, but there are equivalents in other places. My build is a wet sump duratec, which I think contributed to the confusion -- the missing tubes were for the extra modine. It's extra fun because the heater and water tank are 16mm or 5/8", and the motor side is all 19mm or 3/4". So there are two adapters needed, or some lube and sweet talking. I hunted a LOT for custom (single-piece) elbows with adapter fittings, but it doesn't seem doable in single-part quantity. parts list: 19mm @ 1m tube, 19mm joiner @ qty 3 16-19mm adapter hose (qty 1) 135* 19mm elbows @ qty 2 SB heat shrink clamps (for 19mm, qty 6) 19mm sleeved hose clamps qty 3 16mm sleeved hose clamp qty 1 In order of installation: the inboard fitting routes up to the tee between the motor and the coolant tank. (modine -> tee) is a 135* elbow to ~ 0.5m of hose, with a single 19mm joiner + SB clamps. I've got this one routing around the firewall and tied to the LHS frame support to stay out of the way. view from below, which really illustrates why 135* vs 90*: and above: For the heater -> modine: 16-19mm adapter, about 0.5m of 3/4 silicone, and a 135-degree elbow. Plus a pair of 19mm joiners and gates SB heat-shrink clamps. The radius up from under the block is wide enough that I don't need an elbow there. This line runs right between the accelerator stop bolt and the steering column; I've got a few pieces of rubber or plastic in the areas which look like they might rub. This line connects to the outboard modine port; the elbow is cut on both ends, lower side to fit inside the inboard run, the top side shorter to keep the joint below the steering column. Still plenty of room to make it up to the 19-16mm adapter to fit on the heater side.

$0.02 the heater is AMAZING and even with it off, the tunnel is self-heated.

I'm the wrong person to ask about "if it were my cash." I put $10k into rebuilding an engine on a free car. Fortunately I was able to distract my wife from that by spending far more on the 7. If your long term plan is that 1.6 with 100k miles and possibly forced induction, I would not cheap out now -- performance, or at least "pretty good." Like whatever you'd want to be in there in the motor's final configuration. If you're planning to pull the engine and sell it, maybe go "equivalent." For my cash I prefer to "cry once." That said, I just googled it and the price range is staggering. Oof. Is it worth the extra $250-300 (freedom units, no idea how well that translates) to not pull your head again in the future?

sorry if I missed this from a previous post ... are you doing a vanilla 1.6 rebuild, or are you rebuilding it a little more perky? Sounds like you're sticking with standard valves & springs ... same cam arrangement too? are you able to (do you have space to) re-route the cooling?

Thoughts and prayers...

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/master-cylinder/601-brake-master-cylinder-lhd-csr-no-reservoir.html this one?

Thanks! LMK when you get closer and I can burn you one

we'll definitely post plans and an itinerary. would be great to meet you if we can make it happen. Here's a similar ride the local (to me) Bri'ish car club made last year: https://www.britishcarclubcharleston.com/TailOfTheDragon.php -- basically a day out, 2 days around the mountains, and a day back. Looking at maps, I think that's a fairly sensible route; especially if we include cherohala skyway and highlands (which are about 2-3 hours apart). I was kinda thinking of using one lodging for the trip as a "home base", to leave behind luggage and doors and whatnot, but that might lead to a few round trips and more calendar time. If we did end-to-end (carry your doors): start at highlands, NC; drive 1.5hrs via Franklin to Robbinsville, break / fuel / lunch From there up to Tallassee via Deal's Gap and back (1.5 hrs) to Robbinsville then out Cherohala (~ 2 hrs). Overnight around Tellico Plains. A shorter option: Robbinsville -> Tallassee -> Robbinsville -> Tellico Plains -> Robbinsville ~ 185 mi, <5h. Open to suggestions. It's not lost on me that BRP is striking distance, for those of us to the east (if you wiggle the map and squint and obscure facts when discussing this with one's spouse).

Is that for the tail lights or the front signals? What PN should I look for? I've been thinking about re-rigging the front-facing signal lights for dual running/signal service. I opted for the LED headlamps, they're fantastic

Hm. I'll have to look that up. A neighbor has an old (60s?) Ginetta, but it's a little smaller than that. Jimmy and I are talking bout a ride to TN/NC to look at trees and bendy roads for a day or so. Eyeballing a map, I think you're a ~1/2 day away, same a us (give or take). Drive out one afternoon, overnight #1, ride around for a day, overnight #2, then home on the 3rd day.

It's all magic and voodoo. Sounds like you got a weird config delivered, and once that was sorted you're in a good place. You gonna bring it out to deals' gap to meet me and Jimmy in October?

I had to use a power bleeder and a lot of pressure (like 100#) to get through some sort of bubble in the rear line. Even now, by feel, they seem softer than I'd expect, but they felt better after bedding. And they definitely stop the car, and modulate well once I take up any slack. I'll flush them later this year when I get bored some weekend.

Franklin, NC -> Highlands, NC: ~ 35 mins / 20 mi Cherohala Skyway: Tellico Plains, TN -> Robbinsville, NC: ~ 1.5 hrs / 52 mi Deal's Gap: ? 30 mins / 12 mi Sounds like we could meet up at one end night before, putt around a day, overnight on the other end, head home? I think both endpoints are ~4 hours from either Atlanta or Charleston, fortunately sort of in the middle.

found an indent on the RHS footwell in the engine bay, perfectly-sized for a business card / build plate.

I'm also experimenting with flaps. Some light notes here as things progress. The platform is a newish Caterham, Duratec (360S). I'm using recycled rubber material, about 1/8" thick. I've cut two 8x8" squares, and VHB-taped them to the back inside of the cycle wings. They are pretty flexible. The RHS is long enough that it could hit the primaries, but has not yet been an issue on a few test-rides around town (50mph max, mostly much less). Significant improvement on gravel kick-up. Anecdotally it sounds like less pinging, and empirically I'm picking less up out of the seat (and my shirt / face). If this configuration becomes permanent I may extend the material to fix to the cycle stay, and tap a few screwholes on there for a more permanent mount -- and to offload some pressure from the fiberglass. I'll also round off the corners, of course

The Miata came with two versions, apparently the MSM version is better for lowered suspension. Safe to assume Westfield know what they're doing, I was mostly curious. Thanks for detailing the build, it's interesting to watch in real time. Will be *very* interesting when you select a turbo kit

are you using the MSM lower tie rod ends? I'm not sure how different the 90 knuckles are... I rebuilt the 4 corners of my 99 NB; my dad got it in '04 with 24k, and I took it at 125k in '12. Rebuilt the corners at 150k and ended up replacing 100% of the hardware. Enough of it was suspicious and the rest was relatively cheap. Compared to coilovers and everything rubber, anyway. Some of those parts like to hold mud & water, I'm not surprised that they're in rough shape after 30 years -- even on a car that was relatively well kept (if well loved).

What's your track mileage? 30+? I'm only in my 4th fueling and I think the aeroscreen made it better. If I'm not driving like points are free it's shockingly high. If I drive to match others in Atlanta I'm still north of 30. Mostly I'd want to be sure it's reasonably fueled (like 12-14.7 I assume) and not super rich for no reason. After that I'd hope mileage were largely a function of throttle position...

did you see any power-related benefit, or mostly with response and sound? I saw your other post(s) about fuel economy, so not sure if you have other gremlins in there. Mine is pretty thrifty. Also I can SEE my plenum contracting just by blipping the TB at idle. I'm sure there's a fair restriction in the intake. Still on the stock filter, FWIW

Hi! I have a new 360S, Duratec w/ wet sump. This is a street car and will be mostly toured / grocery runs. Now that it's barely broke in, I'm thinking about the motor. Curious if anyone has direct before/after experience with ITBs and a sub-420 spec? I've poked around a bit, the upgrade path mostly looks race-oriented with cams and injectors as well as the RBTB or ITB, depending on kit. I assume that will mostly push my torque into higher RPM and let it breathe better... but I also believe that will largely trade some low-end torque for top-end performance. And per grocery thing, I'm not sure I want to make that trade. Any direct experience out there? @KnifeySpoonyshared a little of his experience (esp wrt 420R -> RBTB)

Aeroscreen: fitting this is pretty well written up elsewhere, I'll add the things I had to figure out. - removing the windscreen is easy for 2 people, but not hard solo. I loosened both sides, removed one side completely. The screen will stay upright, no problem. Cut the wires (if you ever want to reconnect, cut as close as possible to the spade), then re-attach that side. Repeat on the other side, but leave it loose. Go back to the first side, hold the screen + remove the last 2 bolts, and carefully lift the screen off. I put rags under the loose side "just in case". - mirror placement is sort of a dark art. Having drilled holes I think I got lucky (plus there's some room to adjust). I eyeballed the RHS and made the LHS match. Aesthetically, it may be interesting to have the 3 mirrors all at the same height. To make them symmetric, I measured from the rearview to the center of the sideview mount, and matched on both sides (16" exactly, from opposite edge of rearview -> center of sideview mount). It seems to work, but I'm short half the hardware so only the RHS is mounted until stores opened the next day. - the screen is curved, the mirror mounts are flat. I used VHB tape + thin foam pad (drawer liner) for a sort of makeshift washer, trimmed to fit. This MAY help spread the load a little better, and not deform or crack the screen - there are two open holes on the scuttle, I've used SS washers + two windscreen bolts to fill cover it.

I think I'm at 3.9 in my NB. Stock torsen, which is fantastic. But first gear is mostly for show... I thought I saw a 3.6 option, but I don't recall where. I only have 175k on mine so it might be a whole before I wear it out