MV8

I've seen some early cars where the nose actually covered part of the valve cover. Further back is usually better but the tunnel width can conflict with the bell width and fork/slave. Too bad they never built a cat that was only wider down the center by a couple inches. It would make it easier to fit common radiators, add cooling capacity, and allow more engine/trans/shifter set back.

Tim, you have a PM.

AN is definitely overkill and you'd need to ensure the mech pump was compatible with alcohol / ethanol just in case. I'd use an electric inline pump with pre-filter at the tank (I prefer carter) with metal lines (steel brake or nickel copper brake line coil with the ends slightly flared) and adel clamps with short sections of R9 efi hose and a standard filter at the carbs. The carter P90091 (previously P60504) is ideal for a quiet, reliable, inline pump with pressure compatible with webers. I use this fuel pump for all carb applications. Unfortunately, carter no longer lists actual specs on their pumps but here is the application list and you could always call Carter Tech Support: (888) 565-9632 for rated psi, gph. If memory serves, 2.5psi, 30gph. Plenty for carbs that have a bowl/accumulator to draw from with intermittent WOT versus fuel injectors which are more critical of gph when the regulator closes under WOT pressure drop in the fuel rail. Some of the more relevant applications for P90091/P60504: 1969-1971 Rover 3500S (In-Line); 1968-1973 Triumph GT6 (In-Line); 1971-1973 Triumph Stag (In-Line); 1968 Triumph TR250 (In-Line); 1960-1961 Triumph TR3A (In-Line); 1962 Triumph TR3B (In-Line); 1962-1964 Triumph TR4 (In-Line); 1965-1967 Triumph TR4A (In-Line); 1963-1980 Triumph Spitfire (In-Line); 1969-1976 Triumph TR6 (In-Line); 1975-1980 Triumph TR7 (In-Line); 1980 Triumph TR8 (In-Line); 1961-1974 Jaguar XKE (In-Line); 1973-1974 Jaguar XJ12 (In-Line); 1972-1978 Jaguar XJ6 (In-Line); 1965-1971 Porsche 911 (In-Line); 1965-1967 Porsche 912 (In-Line); 1970-1971 Porsche 914 (In-Line); 1971-1974 Opel 1900 (In-Line); 1973-1974 Opel Manta (In-Line); 1969-1973 Opel Opel (In-Line); 1968-1972 Opel Kadett (In-Line); 1968-1970 Opel Rallye (In-Line); 1977-1984 Renault LeCar (In-Line); 1972-1977 Renault R12 (In-Line); 1972-1976 Renault R15 (In-Line); 1974-1977 Renault R17 (In-Line); 1976 Renault R5 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Renault R10 (In-Line); 1969-1972 Renault R16 (In-Line); 1962-1968 Volvo 122 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Volvo 142 (In-Line); 1967-1971 Volvo 144 (In-Line); 1968-1971 Volvo 145 (In-Line); 1969-1971 Volvo 164 (In-Line); 1974-1978 Peugeot 504 (In-Line); 1981 Peugeot 604 (In-Line); 1966-1976 BMW 2002 (In-Line); 1966-1968 BMW 1600ti (In-Line); 1971 BMW 1802 (In-Line); 1971 BMW 2.8 Bavaria (In-Line);... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p90091#overview https://carterengineered.com/electric-fuel-pump-p90091

The rule of thumb is that stickers on stock parts add 5hp. Some port work would be nice though!

To spread the load across the hub adapter to help prevent damage, 1/8x2x4 inch steel strips can be drilled to pickup 3-4 wheel mounting holes and provide an edges for a two jaw puller or holes for a harmonic balancer puller. The wheel can be used to mark the strips for drilling the holes. A pencil torch moving around the base and wd40 help too.

Pickup a cheap dial caliper and check the shaft od between the dash panel and the wheel hub, then compare that to the shaft forward of the bushing. I think it should be larger and need to pull from the front but that is just a guess. It seems no two cats are the same. Use emory cloth to wrap around the smaller end of shaft and a shoe lace/paracord/twine looped a couple times around then pull the ends back and forth to clean/polish the shaft.

Sounds like the throttle linkage cannot return the butterfly to the idle stop on that carb.

In queue now for my carport. Lowes had wayne dalton 16x7 garage doors listed for $212. Cheapo, 1 inch thick but good enough to close up a carport imho. Now, lowes or wayne dalton have dropped the line for the much more expensive 2 inch thick versions, so a 16x7 is now $1100 and they only ship to your house now, no pickup at the store. The part number for the $212 door is now shown as costing over $5000: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wayne-Dalton/5014028859 I decided to go with a one piece, tilting panel door that I build myself to whatever size I need. All the hardware and four springs was under $300. A vid on the setup and adjustments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qcbuJdfbs1Q

100ll is still a lot more lead per gallon than leaded auto gas had. Just not worth the trouble you could get into. I suggest additives instead or have hardened valve seats installed if or when the valves sink/no longer seal to make normal compression. The hardened seats will replace the worn area.

The pans can be ordered but you can see how it is done for different models: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/136-floorpans Rivet to the inside of the outer rails, from below on the tunnel rails, lap the front over the existing pan, and a reinforcement strip if using bolt in seats versus squabs is a good idea, though squabs make more sense as the pan drop need not be as much. I suggest 3003-h14 from aircraft spruce, .050" thick.

Pulling is probably best considering the trans and engine are vented and have been partially submerged/protected by oil. As for the clutch stiffness, I'd remove the clutch cable, soak in solvent, then clean and use wheel bearing grease or dry graphite and a motorbike aerosol lubrication adapter. Off the shelf aerosol lubes for bikes work well but go tacky after a month or so, requiring reapplication. Grease pivots, and try again. The alternator and starter should also be taken apart, cleaned and lubed also with wheel bearing grease. Oil the heater blower bushings too. Look for slots in the face of the cam pulley gears, used to set the basic belt timing.

As much as you want but if you have speed bumps and railroad tracks to traverse, maybe not. You could make a new wheel that is smaller in od by a couple inches that bolts on to the existing hub. Fabbed steel with a wire hoop covered in rubber and leather or milled plate with epoxied wood rim.

I've used a spintech many years ago before I had a better understanding of muffler design. Not a fan. If you must use 3 inch, make a baffle insert the length of the straight section of 3 inch tube (essentially a tuneable glasspack and/or baffle that can be much more effective than a supertrap). Make the opening in the center 2 inch. Small holes can be drilled around the edge if it isn't loud enough to suit. The insert is retained with a screw through the wall of the 3 inch tube to keep it in place. If you want it quiet (for a rotary), transition to 2 inch at the engine in order to route out the back without losing too much ground clearance and allow tighter radius mandrel bends. Fit an oem type muffler transversely at the rear where it is not on display so much (because they are not pretty). I like Walkers. It is so tight you probably will need to cut off most of the muffler tubes for connecting the mandrel bends and butt weld. If the side pipe uses a slip fit, the rear muffler and a baffle/glasspack insert could be used or tweaked for preference.

Nice! Amazing unrestored condition.

Larger bore will provider a firmer pedal as well, but higher effort to stop. I'd try 3/4" but keep the old one.

Looks like I was passed over, since I've not heard from Chuck since Thursday...

pm sent

With the existing belt, to collect info, bring Crank to tdc twice, looking for marks and taking pics of the cam pulley positions each time (maybe post those pics for more opinions?). Hand rotate slowly with a 3/8" ratchet and stop immediately if there is any "lock". The valves can be hand levered open to check valve to piston clearance at tdc for each cylinder, with a tool that hooks around the cam (next to the lobe on the un-machined area) about a foot long (probably must be fabricated). Without references/specifications, basics are verified TDC on the crank by checking through the #1 plug hole (don't trust the crank pulley marks), if adjustable cam pulleys are installed, set mid-travel (+/- ) range, both cams on the base circle, with the exhaust cam about to start up the lobe, intake cam just closed, no belt slack on the side pulling. Again, hand rotate slowly to ensure no valve to piston contact. EDIT: this book will probably help: https://www.amazon.com/Ford-pinto-sierra-cosworth-engines/dp/1903706785

PM sent.

Yes, except it needs to be significantly higher (so it won't open) unless the relief ports are tee'd into the catch can/overflow, in which case the caps can be the same or similar psi rating. An alternative is to eliminate the pressure relief capability of the cap that does not have the relief port connected. Just plugging the port next to the cap may not be adequate to prevent leaks and may blow the plug off. 13-14 psi is reasonable. Higher system pressures can damage typical wide tube radiators by ovaling the tubes and blocking airflow. Good time to consider panels to block airflow through the nose from going around the rad. When picking a fan, the size specs are usually smaller in one dimension than advertised, allowing a bigger fan that expected. Most amps/watts you can find for the size that will fit.

Good to know what you actually have first. You can take an existing wheel nut to a parts store, mechanic, or machinist to check the thread size and pitch. Better yet, pop out a stud to check the dimensions with a dial caliper. Hopefully the oversize is no bigger than 7/16-20.

For very low rad mounts, you could use 1/8 x 2 x 3-1/2 strips, welded to the bottom face of the front crossmember and drilled for grommets or split rubber hose "edging" to line the circle, leaving a hole a little bigger than the radiator bottom stud so it doesn't fit so tight as to pull the grommet out with the radiator. The plates can be bent if the radiator clearance to the nose requires tilting. You can probably shim the civic rad cap so it can't open or dribble on shutdown, leaving system pressure up to the expansion tank cap pressure. If not, the rad cap needs to be at least 20psi to keep it from dribbling or tee the overflow hoses so it is collected if it does dribble. Instead of a welded tow loop, consider an accessible threaded hole and keep an eye-bolt in the glovebox.

Often with wheel studs, the knurled shank is much larger than the threaded stud. Measure to compare the original stud knurl to the larger stud to determine if you can go back without modification of the original hubs. Are you sure the larger studs and nuts won't work with the original wheels?

Looks good. An alternative to the threaded rod alignment on the lower control arm pivots (LCAPs) would be passing the tube uncut through both chassis tubes, fully weld in place, then just cut out the middle. Might also add tow loops while you are in there and double shear the control arm pivots. Have you picked a radiator yet?

It would be cleaner and more compact just to use as-is without pulleys. A typical handbrake doesn't need tabs welded on. If you are referring to Ian's handbrake, it is mirrored and could be reassembled with the handle at the top (pivot pin ground out and welded to the other side), cable housing/sheath arm on the bottom, gear flipped on the base, gear stop pin pressed to protrude on the other side, pawl mounted on the opposite side of the arm with the pushrod in the handle rotated 180deg, adapter plate to pickup the four handbrake fasteners and two chassis fasteners, with the fork/tab for the cable end as part of that plate. The plate can have "guide rails" that hug the chassis tube to provide more support than just the two fasteners on the chassis. The handbrake would be offset an inch or so toward the driver to clear the handle and eliminate the need for a bend unless it is the tunnel that is in the way. The whole assembly can be offset left or right as needed if the owner doesn't mind having to drill a hole or two in the tube.