TheDingo8MyBaby

Possibly Here: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4603 http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4338 http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3929

Your front tires are on backwards... Congrats and Enjoy!

Is that the way the megabusa kit comes? Hope you used lots of nylocks and safety wire and do lots of nut and bolt checks...

Griffin makes very nice radiators that have worked very well on my cars.

4x114.3 wheels in that size/offset are easy to come by as they were used on a lot of older Toyotas and Datuns/Nissans. Probably the best resource for them is club4ag.com

It was Morgan's old car. I asked the 'gent driving it.

15x7, 0 offset using a 4x114.3 bolt circle. The only other 15" size is 15x7 40mm offset with a 4x100 bolt circle and I can tell it's not 40mm offest.

I'll take some pictures and measurements - but it'll be about a week or so as I'm not near the car.

I just recognized the color. Not many elans are dark blue.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/DSC_0479.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/DSC_0478.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/DSC_0477.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/DSC_0360.jpg It'll take me a while to sort through all of them...but here's a few. Morgan's old elan is there next to the yellow elan.

Take a look at Part 6 of kiyoshi's write up. http://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/7-hamai-restore/projseve.htm EDIT: Just noticed you're in MA. I'd take a look at this thread too. http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4854&highlight=corrosion&page=2

If you're just doing track days, you may as well use tire treatment. Take the proper precautions...that stuff is nasty. Also check with your local track as some of them do not allow it. Sometimes people just use WD40,saran wrap in a air tight black bag when storing tires.

One thing to consider is the value of a numbers matching twincam caterham. That may make you think twice about selling the motor...

+1 for the lipstick. I really love the way Kitcat's car looks. For cars with exposed aluminum the lipstick or yellow nose, green fenders are really the only multi colored schemes that looks good. It's too busy otherwise. Back to the original discussion- the racing stripes really make your ar look agressive Oyagi's. Nice work.

This all depends... Couple weak points off the top of my dead: cast front pulley, cast piston ring lands, valve seats (if they haven't been converted to unleaded). A whole lot of other things come into play when you start increasing compression and spinning the thing higher - especially the crank. With stock 1700 super sprint power, the cortina box should be fine as long as you keep up with the oil level. The release bearing does tend to go bad quickly if the left leg rests on the clutch constantly. The diff is also strong enough for stock 1700 SS power. It does tend to leak - so watch out for the A frame bushings as they go bad after being soaked in oil. Although they're not a weak link, for piece of mind it makes sense to watch your U joints as the driveshaft is spinning right next to you.

Caterham pattern is 4x108mm (4x4.25).

The yellow car is a 1915 Ford Model T. As far as the silver one - I only remember that it had streamliner in the name.

Odd...the 4age exhaust exits the left side of the motor.

If you only knew what it is like to own a crossflow... My guess would be oil leaks. For some reason the kent just doesn't like to stay sealed...

Or your sump may just be overfilled. Some crossflows have oil surge problems. Most people take the easy way out and simply add more oil..

Mike, Dave bean has a spring kit for $8. I know because I just ordered one this week. You can also shim the spring to get more pressure, but I'd rather pay $8 so I don't have to take it apart again if it's wrong. I figure I'll put it in if I ever decide to sell it - so the prospective buyer isn't concerned with the oil pressure. The spring is accessed from the block side of the pump. If you buy bean's spring, they'll send you a catalog that has exploded views. Keep in mind, there's nothing wrong with 5psi idle/ 25psi 3000 rpm. The crossflow likes good flow, not necessarily pressure. Formula Fords run these pressures all day (and the ones running the lower pressures make more power). Another thing to consider is more pressure may mean more oil leaks...

http://www.formula1unitedstates.com/ Red McCombs... I'm starting to see some legitimacy to this after all...

Not bad! At least considering my OEM caterham gauge goes to 8 bar.. ;-)

As a general rule of thumb - anything over 220deg F for dyno oil and 250 deg F for synethic are my cut-off points. It depends on the oil, the amount of anti-oxidants, and the time it's at that temperature. So, lets say I touch 220 on a dyno oil... probably no big deal if it's a high quality oil and it's only instantaneously. If I'm sustaining 210 for more than a minute, I'm definitely going to put in a cooler. I reccomend a cooler on the 4ag because they're prone to rod knock. Furthermore, the blacktop has lightened internals and the conrods are notoriously weak. Without a cooler, 3 laps at 110deg F ambient was enough to run the oil temp up to 250 deg F on my 4age.

Another brooklands mirror option is racetech. They seem to be a little more reasonably priced than the spa mirrors.