Croc

I guess this was an oops at an autocross when hitting a cone? Your instincts for fixing are pretty spot on. The experienced repairers compress the extrusions with a bolt and large washers. The method I liked best has two washers - a plastic one against the panel metal (to protect it) and then the plastic washer is backed by a metal washer for strength - 4 washers in total. Bolt and nut with a rachet spanner on the nut. Then a light beat for finishing. Fortunately it is in a place where it is not that visible once repaired. For reattaching wing, I am a fan of the nylon bolts instead of metal rivnuts. If you have doubts about the strength of the metal around the hole you can also do a nylon washer. The nylon bolts shear quicker than the panel does so you don't damage the metal if you do it again. I suspect I am preaching to the converted but once you have done this one you want to avoid the sheet metal damage in the future!!! What is the back story with your car? Clearly an interesting project you have picked up.

Having witnessed a se7ens only track event for 10+ years, I can assure you they spear off in all directions - forwards, backwards, and sideways. Some more frequently than most....

Caterham 2000 Caterham Super Seven for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 15 (Lot #65,845) | Bring a Trailer

@Bruce K he kept the car as he loved it so much. Is having it refurb'ed. Then went on vacation on some remote island in Florida drinking tequila. I like his style!

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I am laughing at this comment. Its just so true. Just wait until you find out what is missing from your kit in terms of parts! Scorpion key? Thats the immobilizer thingy? You could do what everyone else does and just tie the fob to the steering column and forget about it. Have not seen mine since 2010 but I think it is still there. Pace dry sumps are good - you should not have any issues there. Enjoy your build!

Hi Des - If you want to send me that 80s Caterham build manual, I can add it to our USA7s website technical library for others who come along later.

Not sure if this was their original intended usage but I have seen people mount oil coolers vertically off those mounts. Only on older cars where the radiator was smaller and offset.

Yes thats right on the VIN decipher. I can take the night off now!

All of these solutions are using shielding. Also consider adding a vent that - once you are moving - pushes air through the engine bay and transmission tunnel reducing temps. While I have shielding, I was still burning my elbow on chassis tubes as the hot air was stagnating inside the transmission tunnel even when driving at speed. The forced air venting was the solution that finally worked for me. I used a carbon fiber snorkel in front of the under-bonnet sausage filter to get a cold air intake, reduce my under bonnet temps, reduce my intake temps (by 20degF) plus make air consistently flow front to back. In the photo, its the black bulge on the side of the bonnet.

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Westfield No Reserve: Westfield Seven for sale on BaT Auctions - ending February 5 (Lot #65,057) | Bring a Trailer

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Dyno results are always controversial. The 420 has a claimed 210hp at the flywheel. Caterham claims are sometimes "flexible" so that may be a factor here. Allow for 20-30% drive train loss is my usual consideration. Fuel octane used does influence the result. There is ALWAYS considerable variance based on the type of dyno, technician using it, etc. While yours is on the low end of what I would expect, it is within a range I would expect. Cylinder reading is where I would expect - I dont think your issue there. If you want to unlock hp the best way is to get it properly dyno tuned. The Caterham locked ECU tunes are very conservative and overly rich. That is expensive since you have to do a remote tune with SBD UK or buy a new unlocked ECU to have someone in the US do the tune but it works everytime - probably at least 20 more hp, better torque curve and a smoother engine response feel. @simon450 @sf4018 @SK400 Random ping as you are the only 3 I know who may have dyno'ed your 420's (before upgrades) so may have a dyno plot to answer this question.

Calling @Astro Bob to the forum

It is horrifically bumpy. Also hard to find reference points for Turns 1 and 17 - its this vast expanse of asphalt and there is a better (i.e. slightly smoother) line through there that you have to pick out. I have only driven there in a 1965 Mustang and it was fairly lively. Great video - one of the best I have seen for driving Sebring as you can see clearly what car and driver are doing at each point.

I am disappointed. If you are going to make the comments then have the courage to stand behind them rather than point fingers elsewhere the moment you are challenged. For the record I was traveling all day and have not been in front of the computer since 4am Eastern today. One thing this specific thread of for sale posts has personally taught me over the 10 years it has been running, is that there is huge diversity of owners and their cars. I recognize se7en ownership is a broad church - it attracts a lot of different people with very personal likes and dislikes. Just because one person does not like something, another person most definitely will. Personally, I think the replica subject to discussion looks a lot better than say a Diva 7 or a Dutton 7 but thats me. I also respect the owner creating it has a lot more skill at building a car than I do. @w650gb500 - well said!

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I think it is lots of track time that makes the A frame a risk. My A frame on the 420R broke at roughly 10,000 track miles. All high G loading tracks. I don't run with slicks but rather the Avon ZZS (it always rains in the UK so why bother with slicks). I do use the curbs which would not help. I also have the benefit of storing my car with a group of Caterhams which are even more heavily tracked than mine so I get to see and hear about more regular failure points on these cars under heavy track usage. This is a non-issue on road cars with mild track usage unless they were quite aged. Carl's car was extensively tracked by its previous owner so it is worth him checking for peace of mind.

I know that but I thought it relevant that we identified a source for the photos being used pre-their current manipulation.

Hi Carl - Yes - @sf4018did a replacement just recently. It did not break like mine but had bent out of true. He did a post somewhere on here.