fastg

Sometimes it can be real tricky and sometimes they just slip into place. I just had a struggle putting my motor in. Your right to try and align it as best you can by sight, using the gap around the bell housing and the bell housing bolts to try and get it as aligned as you can. Sometime twisting the trans helps, as can putting the trans in gear and turning the output shaft. You might want to check the clutch as the right spline in the middle, I always slide the plate onto the trans input shaft just to make sure they fit. You can probably look at the alignment plug and make sure it looks right and had the right number of splines. Don't be tempted to use force as it will just end in tears:) Graham

Coffee Break is right, your first issue is getting a titles in MI and work backwards. Some states for example require a single donor, and you get the emissions requirements from the donor. Is using a VW 1.8 possible, yes absolutely. But your going to need a custom bell housing, and I guess a custom oil pan, custom motor mounts...... and a T9. Plus your removing the engine from your GTI so lowering it's resale value. The Birkin is designed around the Ford engines. I would bet the a 2.5 motor out of a Focus and the trans out of a NC or latter Miata would work out cheaper. You would also improve the resale value of the Birkin. But sometimes the fun way is not a cheapest way. Graham

Most programmable ECU's have a TPS reset process. You initiate the process it asks you to close the throttle and press YES, then full throttle and press YES, so it know the operating range, or something like that. Electronic throttles can work it out themselves. Graham

Database Management on high performance mainframe database systems. It pays the bills very nicely. I love the complex three dimensional problems that occur frequently, they keep you sharp. People thought I was mad staying on the mainframe world, but as the number of mainframes has gone down so has the number of people that can support them. So it has worked out well, cruising to retirement. Graham

If it's a push-on with a hose clamp your in luck, you just need a flare to stop the hose from sliding off, that should be easy to do. Graham

I don't think so, that looks like the end that clips into a snap on fitting? If I am correct there is no flaring tool that will help. Graham

Because the bolt is getting effectively longer? Is the bolt stretching, or wearing at the head end? Graham

I run ZDDP my Honda engine, It's done a lot of track days and is still running strong. I get an oil analysis done every year and I am showing no bearing wear, it's cheap insurance. Graham

I think you wii find the drain plug does not drain all the oil. There are flanges within the trans that cause oil to pool in various places. I just drained a Mazda trans. But after I got it out of the car it still left a significant pool of oil on the garage floor. So your doing it the correct way. Graham

Ready to go back in. The ATI damper is quite a lot smaller than the stock damper so I am going to have to research a new belt. Graham

You look to be around 14.7:1 AFT, perfect for emissions, not perfect for HP. But I would not call it dangerously lean. I see you found a Dynojet:) Graham

I am confured, are you trying to increase or decrease the rear brake action? Could you not just put a proportioning valve in the brake circuit your trying to reduce the hydraulic pressure to? https://www.summitracing.com/search/department/brake-systems/part-type/brake-proportioning-valves-and-distribution-blocks/product-line/wilwood-brake-proportioning-valves?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&PageRollup=ProductName&GridPageSize=16&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=brake proportioning valve&utm_content=Proportioning Valves&utm_campaign=General Terms M - R Graham

Power Master are nice people, used them for years. They will also repair there alternators, and upgrade if they can. You can get most models from Summit, I got my last one with a 10% discount coupon. Graham

It's peppy for a $700 junk yard motor. My guage shows a little under 12 volts at idle, but goes up to 14 as soon as the throttle picks up. With a 7.5k red line I don't want to over spin the alternator so I have to running a little slow. Graham

K24A2, great motor, but very tall, tough to package. You can see the difference to the stock Honda Alternator. Graham

I like the PowerMaster alternators as there true one wire alternators. Graham

Checkout Powermasters, they do a Denso small alternators, up to 75 amps. I have been running a 55 amp version on my car for years, Page 42 on there catalogue http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/catalog.html Graham

I spend as little time as possible close to the car, park it and walk away if I can. Graham

Nylock nuts loose there strength, the more you use them the less there retention strength. There are many options but I would recommend the distorted thread locknut option. But once again this is a single use item, but as you will have to buy a bag of 25 that is not a problem. https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/locknuts/system-of-measurement~metric/ Graham

Dyno shops don't really care about the car, it the engine and ECU. The only issue with the car is how to strap it down, but one look under the back will answer that question. For a basic dyno run they just need the engine so they know were to pick up the RPM signal. When I talk to a dyno shop I will say I have a Locost with a K24. Graham

I would not start chasing dyno number, it's pointless. A Dynopack Dyno is a good setup, I think it's a hub dyno so it removes the tire drum interface. If the shop is convenient and the staff responsive keep using them. The numbers are for your reference so you can compare changes. Or you can go chase numbers, slip the dyno operator $50, he will pump the tires up good and hard, play with the temp and pressure setting, you will get some good numbers. But guess what the actual HP the engine produces will not change. Graham

"301 RWHP at 14psi boost" is an astronomical number. In a perfect world 14.7 pounds boost will double HP, but the turbo exhaust system is very inefficient so you don't get double the power. So a stock 1.8 Miata on 12 pounds boost would be around 200 rwbhp. Graham

I had a turbo NA Miata before the 7, controlled by a Megaquirt, it was a ton of fun. I like flyinmiata.com parts, super quality. You just need a simple log manifold and a Garret GT2560R eBay clone turbo and your in business. miataturbo.net is always a good resource, lots of Megasquirt information. Don't get sucked into the HP gains, the more HP you make the more difficult it will be to drive on/off boost. So stay at modest power gains and you will have a lot of fun. Graham

I think your going to need a lot more information above "English Axle". But I have used https://chicagodriveline.com/ in the past with success. But I gave them the front and rear drive flanges, they used that information to source new components to build a driveshaft. Graham

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