fastg

A couple from the Locost list S2K based, http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=20624 Miata Turbo based, http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=20621 Graham

Don't forget the actual temperature at the sensor will depend where the sensor is located. On my engine the ECU temp sensor is in the back of the cylinder head. The fan sensor is in the return line to the top of the radiator, there is often a 15 degree difference. Graham

I have posted this to the Locost list, the more eyes the better. Graham

Never seen a 160, pegasus racing dot CV k thg hff e high quality Setrab brand https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=SETRABSWITCH

I found the reason for my creeping water temp, nothing to do with the mods I had done over the winter. I had re-installed a panel that runs from the front lower frame rail, it was blocking the air from exiting the radiator. I guess I had not run the plate for years, just found it and decided to re-install. Oops.

Yep on the parade laps. I could only find one of the cars in the paddock. Graham

MVP Track Time has made it as far east as Mid-Ohio. Mark run it as the benevolent dictator, he will have a "talk" with you:) Graham

I was reviewing the RaceChrono data last night from VIR. I downloaded it to my tablet as it's much easier to see than a phone. The Garmin GLO GPS bluetooth receiver is amazing. It really improved the detail on the data, I think you could see every steering input. The Chin group run a sighting session for the first session of the day, all drivers allowed, waving yellow, no passing, after about 4 laps they black flag the session. It perfect if you have never been to the track before, so out I went. I think 3rd lap after the blind left at the top of the upper S's. Three wrecked car, 2 Porsche's and a Mustang. I am not talking about a fender bender the front wheel was hanging of the Mustang a rear wheel was twisted and one car in the armco!!!!!! I have never seen car on car contact at a track day, one group I run with MVP Track Time are proud that in 14 years they have never had car on car contact. There was one other serious wreck in the expert group that need the helicopter. It was a well run event but they do 3x30 minute sessions and 1x40 minute session, then a 1 hour open track all car at the end of the day. I think 30 minutes is to long let alone 40 minutes, I much prefer the 6x20 minute sessions. The open track session is not for the faint hearted. Graham

Sun screen is your friend. Normally this time of year we would all have a natural tan, well I have sun burn on the back of my hands from just driving, so beware. Graham

Just came back from 2 days at VIR with the Chin group. VIR is a great track, not very 7 friendly, a 3/4mile back straight does not help. But there are some very tricky technical areas. The Chin group run a very well organized event, lots of high end cars, more GT3RS's that you could count, a couple of race teams were using it as a practice day, so the expert group was crazy fast. Randy Probst was there with a old ex-factory Volvo 740, it was fun to watch him mussel it around. A Pikes Peak Tesla was testing it was crazy fast. Most of my winter upgrade appeared to work, cage, the new fuel tank setup, new belts, Garmin GLO GPS, the cell phone mount will be good after I Locktite the bolt:) The only issue was the new cooling setup led to a slow upwards water temp during a session, I was having to soft peddle the last lap or 2. Tried to upload a couple of pictures but uploads failed. Graham

I worked in the car trade, so this is my opinion. Tatty interiors always hurt sales, it show lack of interest, lack of respect, abuse. The rest of the car needs to be clean, very clean. A nice interior and clean can is you best return on your pre-sale investment. There are some detail shops that work on exactly this, there used to be a shop in Chicago called Carnica, I guess that were taken over by Dent Wizard. Every Monday morning we would inspect and clean all the cars we had taken in trade over the weekend. The ones we were going to keep we would line up, a small van would arrive and he would work most of the day. He would fix paint chips and scuffs, small dents faded seats and carpet. The difference me made to a car was nothing short of staggering. So try and contact you local detail/dent repair shops and see what you can find. Make the seats look good/better the cheapest way you can and clean the rest of the car, detailed cleaning. That will give you the best resale value for the lowest cost. Graham

Not quite $20 each but close, I know people that are using these. https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Weigh-Shipping-Stainless-Readability/dp/B0153I0418/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=QzOBjSpmu92UCka1d.DN-g&hsa_cr_id=5507623510701&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_asin_0 Graham

Squirt a couple of cc's of oil down each cylinder before you test it, if it goes up it's rings. You could try a leak down test and listen for the noise, you can tell if it's the head for cylinder. Graham

I love options https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Hylomar-Blue

Yes, Dan uses the same user name on both sites w650gb500 I think. He built my roll cage, amazing workmanship. Graham

I have just returned from seat belt hell, I must thank http://www.pegasusautoracing.com for there help as I had to return some belts. I went for the Sabelt pull-up style originally, but the pull-up buckle was crushed behind the seat, pull-up looked like a good idea but was not practical. I did like the Sabelts well made, smooth operating, nice buckle. I swapped to a RaceQuip pull-down, I had not liked the pull-down belts I had in the past because once buckled the adjuster was to low to be practical to use, you has to unbuckle the belt to have adjustments. The RaceQuip have the adjuster directly attached to the buckle attachment so they can be adjusted once buckled. The Problem with the RaceQuip is they have quick adjusters on the crotch straps. The Sabelt had a simple adjuster down at the belt attachment to the chassis, tougher to setup originally but one set I have never had to adjust the crutch belts. I had to widen the hole thru the bottom of the seat to make room for the RaceQuip adjusters. They are in now and feel conferrable all the adjustments feel smooth and easy to operate. Dates are another issue with belts so make sure you get 2025 belts, of a discount on older belts. Graham

I would take it the other way, there are only a couple of people that know the true story, maybe non left. It's just an open letter maybe with nobody to respond it. Dan on the site has owned/built a couple there was one sitting in his shop the last time I was there. Maybe he know more. He is not a fan on the front suspension design so the original design was not as perfect as the poster thinks. Graham

I used the dyno curve, the gear rations and a simple spreadsheet to work out the best shift point in each gear. I then programmed the shift light to reflect the numbers so all 6 lights on is 1st, 5 lights 2nd, 4...... With all cars the shift point will get lower as the gear ration lowers. But like Croc says the shift points have nothing to do with the rev limit, some people spin the Honda motors like crazy but it's not necessary. Graham

Looks great, we're did you get the ABS sheet from? I men a cover foot the floor sill. Graham

I think you might be relating the bad running with the coolant crystallizing. I am not sure there related, I would follow breezy7 plan first. A compression test, a coolant pressure test. Then drain the oil and coolant and give them a close inspection. You might just have some old coolant and a stuck fuel pressure regulator. Graham

d15b7, I can make you an engine mount, in Laurel MD so not that far away. Do have have any pictures you can post so I can see the design/scale. I guess you have the stock mount and the engine is remaining in the same location, so it should just be a different shape mount but the the locating points in the same place. Graham

FYI, i think what you are calling a bobbin is really called a "Silent Block" Graham

I did a fuel line swap on my Locost when I went to a return based system. I used the hard lines to AN -6 fittings, mounted with P clips along the funnel. It came out nice with 2 AN fitting poking out from either and of the tunnel. I then used the Superflex soft lines for rest of the way. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=PLUMANFLEX Graham

Kitcat is correct, a good shock can be rebuilt and the damping changed. A good shock shop will be able to make changes to the base damping, finding a shop that has experience with our light weight cars might be tough. But the issue is the sophistication of the shock your working with. The engineering inside a Penske or Ohlins shock should not be underestimated. So I can tune my GAZ shocks forever but they will never be a high end shock. Penske is probably the best should you can get full support on in the US. Remote reservoir is a big upgrade as it separates the compression from the rebound damping so they can both do a better job. Do not skimp on shocks they can make a huge difference. Graham

As Caterhams use a lot of Sierra parts you should contact Jeff at Merkur Parts Midwest. He has a Merkur only breakers yard. He also does a lot of restoration parts. A friend has a XR4Ti that we did a full body shell upwards restoration, Now with a hot 302 Ford in it, cool car. A lot of the parts came from Jeff, If he has not got it he knows were to find them. He has T9 transmission a ton, a lot of people swap to the T5 so T9's are unloved in the Merkur world. http://merkurmidwest.com/index.html Graham