Boxologist

a small bubble level on that and ur set.

If u ddin't have the car re-alligned since the initial one, its probably still the same. There really no room for the allignment to change less u go wild w/ fabrication like Norm B. I think Loren has hit the nail on the head. U not seeing the violen inputs of autoX on these tyres since they've only been to a trackdate so ur not onto the outside edge. I suspect as a track novice 8" up front and 9" in the rear is probably better suited for the inpts that are needed. IIRC ur r888s are closer to those sizes. And if u feel it neccessary. i will wera the outside edges of the r25b for u next season. I should be recieving a set of well used A6s that i will use for a Evo school that u can have afterwards.:drool:

shifter kart. course, u have illegal aero for f125.

should be moved to the autoX forum. You were in B Mod because of the motorcycle engine and 7 style body. If u build to the D/E Mod ruleset and substitute a motorcycle drivetrain, u are a B Mod car. wings/spoiliers outside the silouette from above would bump u into A mod.

finally got in the car after 3 weeks. took into work this weekend. seem more comfortable than my tin top

the benefit of the miata drivetrain is also the availibility of wheels and brake items if u use the entire driveline. one of the local hotshoes here when he first wanted to codrive with me showed up with a set of wheels and R comps from his me-otter. I had to explain that mine was a ford variant and he should be hunting for a Westfield unit. If u are set for a honda drivetrain, get in touch w/ Del Long out of Iowa who built his own, plus an extra one or two under the name of Sprinto. He may still be able to be contacted thru this site, or better off thru the yahoo D/E mod autoX group. he is away in lincoln this week so be patient. Del skipped the s2000 drivetrain in favor of teh k20 (RSX) because the s2000 was too peaky of a lump. U should

Definite out. Absolutely sucks as my back was feeling better yesterday and today has the suck again. If there's a 2010 W.Va blat i'll be on that fer sure! hopefully i'll be OK in a few weeks and schedule some local drives.

i was still on a drive w/ a bunch of others on the way back from Franklin at the time.

nice

i'm looking doubtful because of pinched nerve in my lower back.

seafoam green thunderbird convertible.:auto: slushbox

oh, do spread unfounded rumors!

i would actually mount it high on the roll bar an duse the remote display from that point.

damn, I know people who would kill for an apartment that looked like that. Very impressive!

Glad John was able to help you. Get the car and drive it before looking for Upgraditis cures. those tyres are definitely at the end of their life time find some nice twisty roads and drive the piss out of them to wear the tyres out. get a good baseline of how the car heaves with the dead tyres. then try it again w/ real tyres. the bad behavior u didn't expect or like will change. try the seats out. head rests are available for the s-type seats. if u have plans to plenty of track events then definitely get the FIA roll bar and a seat ready for a 6point harness. otherwise, what u have can last u quite a while and be comfortable. if ur looking for track tyres and wheels get a new set, the prisoner wheels will still be good for blats. as for cycle fenders, try out the clamshells. if ur afraid of lift, and u can feel it, consider cutting an opening in the wings the way Norm Beaver has done. U'd have to look for pictures back in '07 to see his car. Its a good solution. The color combination is too unique and to quick to bring a smile to start leaving marks on the body just yet. give it another year or 2

got over to Lowe's and Home Depot. Lowe's has Well Nuts. the 10-24 size was corect for the holes i have caused from the autoX 2 weeks ago and re-opened yesterday on my last run. They are a bi larger than what u have created when u pull the OEM rivnut thru. U will need to drill or grind them a smidge larger. i went to Home Depot after i tried initial press fitting and lubing the rubber, but HD has some knockoff that does not have the small lip on the rubber to catch the Al skin. the WellNut is a MUCH better design. I do need to get longer bolts than i intially bought, maybe 1.25" wil be long enough, but 1.5" will be safe. the original bolts were an M5. Tom's use of plastic bolts is good too. i did not see them at the stores, but will order them. And a bumper bar for the off side is definitely desired

http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=4021

stylin'!

Penske yellow? Koni Yellow old yeller http://blog.al.com/scene/2007/11/large_Old%20Yeller.JPG

yellow from a Honda S2000? and yeah, the polish job on aluminium sure is a looker

the "cone" bars that some of the stalker (a few others too) have made for in front of the rear fenders is the best solution. it knocks them sideways. teh cone that caused the damage was hit so hard/fast that it stayed planted in its box.

awesome. an expanding anchor is what i was hoping for. The metal bolts in the back of the wing arch just spin the metal factory rivnut in place. the neoprene layer should solve all the issues with this occurance. It should hold together as is well enough this weekend's autocross double header if 5 point holds together for Tom. Its best for the event chair to show up in his own car. Dave, saounds as if I would have to take off the interior piece to use the reinforcing washers or other metal.

ran over a cone hard at saturday's autoX and it pulled out the front 5 rivnuts from the body. the aluminium is puckered around the exit wounds. http://inlinethumb26.webshots.com/42201/2195272430099946657S600x600Q85.jpg best course of action to reattach? only 2 of teh 5 rivnuts went back in and stayed in place, the front lowermost and top one in front of the axle. those should hold the fender well enough for now. I take it i have to drill out the panel next to ther rear bulkhead to get to the exterior skin?

he's gone now, everyone spam his email!

congrats. don't be a stranger. take lots of pics. drive even more!