mrmustang
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Everything posted by mrmustang
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Battery pulled, ETX20L (agm) and tested, bad cell., 9 years old Now waiting for replacement to get here tomorrow morning.
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And the survey says, DOA battery, even after a trickle charge to full charge last night Kept meaning to pull and check it, my fault and nobody else to blame but myself. Once I'm back at the car, I'll have to check what the part number is for sizing/fitting purposes and replace it as I'm not going to reinvent the wheel at this point. Hopefully later this morning or early afternoon.
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So, tell us a little about yourselves
mrmustang replied to slngsht's topic in General Sevens Discussion
First welcome to the madness of "7" ownership. While you are doing your "baseline" of the car, I highly suggest fuel lines be replaced. My 2003 is on the tail end of my baseline, hoses, wires, belts, coil, plugs, etc, stumbled across some dry rot cracking in a small piece of fuel line that did not show up till the system was pressurized, now being swapped out for braided (personal choice) PTFE line and AN fittings. 20,000+ miles worth of fuel on at least three or four continents have passed through the original in my case, so better to be safe, than sorry. Looking forward to watching your upgrades and updates. Bill -
I debated on the blue (socketless) Aeroquip line vs their braided steel line and decided that the braided line would give me that extra 10-20% of safety, at least in my mind. Sure a little extra work for the hose ends, but I've been working with this type of line and fittings for close to 40 years as a hobbyist, so what is just a few more hose ends to build. Once they are finished and mounted with the rubber coated adel clamps, I suspect I'll not have to worry about them again. Form and function, along with peace of mind is always a plus in my book, whether it is on the street, or on the track. Although, I find myself less on the track these days with any of my cars, and more on the street. Bill
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Yes, replaced the entire line, although mine is (was) a combination of rubber/copper, not hard plastic. Just waiting on a M16x1.5 to -6 AN adapter for the outlet of the fuel filter, a final fit up with the addel clamps, and leak testing. After that, a quick going through to double check the throttle body balance one more time, and we are back on the road, safe for another 20,000 or so miles. I hope. Bill
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With the debugging winding down, induction now balanced, brake and clutch fluids now purged/flushed, front end aligned, I'm down to the replacement of the original fuel filter to TWM fuel lines. Done due to severe cracking (dry rot or ethanol induced) of the rubber portion of the fuel line, we decided to replace with a modern fuel stable braided line. Both the main and return lines are loosely run, just awaiting the last fitting (thought I had one) for the fuel filter. Then 8-10 addel clamps, and we will be safely back on the road. Not pretty, did not show up till we put pressure to the system, scary to think what could have happened on the open road if we did not catch it ahead of time. Old line out of the car, I'll keep it in storage The start of the new lines and fittings going in, sorry I did not get a better shot. Hopefully my next set of pictures will be the car back on the road. Bill
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I'm drawn more towards the 1962 Elva Mark IV
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For those of us who drive our cars year round, a heater is a must for defrosting/demisting the windshield. Heat to the footboxes are like any other British designed convertible, 7, MG, Triumph, Alpine, Jag, etc.....Either you have heat from the engine, and a little circulation from the heater box fan, or you don't. Bill
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Cars and Coffee this month is at Michelin, then back to Bridgeway Station next month. Uncertain what I'll bring at this time, maybe the Caterham if I get it safely back on the road by then. Bill
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Sadly, saw him pull up and park, never got a chance to walk the 200 feet over to say hello before he walked away to socialize on the other side of the field. I rarely spent time by our car the whole day, so I get it. Sure we will all catch up later in the season. Bill
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UglyFast was there with the Purple people eater (#1), was a nice 67 "7" parked next to him. I was at the top of the hill directly in front of the VIP tent with our 65 Sunbeam Tiger (as requested by the organizers). Most likely, at least for me, this was a one and done type of event. Strange setup, even stranger show classes, I was paired up with Iso Griffo, which was the sexiest car there in my humble opinion, a few Chrysler Crossfires, a 57 Nash, a 68 Zimmer, a custom built Alpha based roadster race car, a 91 Lamborghini, one F40, one yellow Testarossa and two 308 Ferrari's. Again, a strange setup, the BMW and Porsche groups got the prime show field, 90% late model, a few 70's, 60's, 50's for the Porsche group, 3 Morgans (two 60's, one 2008 Aero coupe), 3 vintage XKE's (two convertibles, one coupe), 4 Panteras, a bunch of Triumph motorcycles, a few Fiats, new and old. A Unimog (black and lifted, looked sinister), and a bunch of vendors.
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Is it me or does every SUV driver think he has a race car?
mrmustang replied to Reiver's topic in General Sevens Discussion
You drive on RT422 a lot, don't you -
I'll be at Eurofest (behind Hartness Hotel) with the 65 Tiger tomorrow from 8am till 4pm, stop by and we can hash out the details. Bill
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What stymies me is the issue changing from one cylinder to another. Almost as if the coil was going bad, or the earlier mentioned dirt in the fuel line or fuel barrel leading to the injectors themselves. Has the drop in exhaust temp ever occurred in more then one cylinder at a time, or always just one? The typical way one cylinder runs cold is due to a misfire, bad plug, bad wire, bad coil, but again, with this being a rolling issue makes me believe a bad coil pack vs a bad injector.
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I'm going to throw another one out there for you to ponder on, a potential leak in your fuel line when under pressure. My friend who is balancing the TWM throttle bodies finished the front end alignment and was taking the car out earlier today and smelled fuel. Drove it on the alignment lift and found a small leak starting in the -6 braided line. Now awaiting the new -6 line to be delivered and between the two of us will get it buttoned up. Hopefully back at the house before the end of the week.
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Sounds like a fuel issue, especially if it moves from cylinder to cylinder. Dirt or air in the fuel system can do this, when is the last time you bled the system and changed the fuel filter? Then again, how old are the injectors, are they high impedance or low impedance units? The injector system you linked to seems like just the ticket for a home mechanic. Let us know how that goes. Bill
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Not that specific machine, but back in the early to mid 2K's, I worked for a race shop that had one. Beautiful, stainless steel, think they paid $4,500 for it. It allowed for balancing, testing, cleaning, when you needed to wring every last portion of performance out of the engine they were being installed on.
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I had a similar conversation with a fellow purchasing a TR5 from the UK this week, his concern was the same. I advised that no clarification has been made in regards to new vs used car tariffs, or if there would be specific exceptions based on physical age. To the best of my knowledge, the tariffs are based on new vehicle imports at this time, and no additional "import fees" have been levied on cars such as the TR5 at this time. Will this hold, time will tell. Bill
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The Regular Summary of Classified Ads of Se7ens Found For Sale
mrmustang replied to Croc's topic in Cars For Sale
This is what happens when a 7 builder takes psychotropic medication -
Roll bar padding for the street and Half Hood quandary
mrmustang replied to Reiver's topic in General Sevens Discussion
For my race cars, when the bar to structure was tight, I used the following type (roll bar diameter needs to be checked for each application, they are made in different sizes) https://www.a1racing.com/quickcar-racing-products-58-212-sfi-mini-roll-bar-padding.aspx Strong self adhesive, so if you buy it and plan to install, make certain you fit first, then have an extra set of hands/eyes during install, as this is a one and done situation. Bill -
They don't have a full english version of their web site, but google can assist in translation by using cut and paste if need be https://www.teikokukikaku.com/en Dash mounted rear view mirror is the same one used for Cobra (real or replica), I have one I may install on mine once it's running better and on the street Bill
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But sitting in traffic and getting it started are of concern at the moment
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Not all of the Tail of the Dragon is open yet Same goes for the Blue Ridge Parkway. Just so you know that crews are still cleaning, patching, trimming back No matter what you may be reading online, check with the NC DOT sites for your desired routes. Bill
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Next Cars & Coffee at the Michelin Corporate office off RT85 will be on April 26th Maybe by then I'll have the 4-50mm throttle bodies balanced Bill
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Thanks, once they are balanced, we will see how they behave. I was told they were 50mm, whether they are or not means little at the moment. Once they are balanced, we will see how they react to the street driving I am planning for now. I don't suspect we will be anywhere near redline or wide open throttle, but you never know, I might get bitten by the track bug again, maybe a little autocrossing instead of road racing, only time will tell. Bill
