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New guy. Here is my Cat


Vovchandr

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What was the issue with the gauge tubing?

Can you post a pic of the bulb? That must not be a part number they use anymore. I would expect to see a ba9s base (9mm/0.355"od, 180 pins), 13-15v rating, short globe top, and around 3w for an incandescent replacement. Part number 57 is typical. Led replacements usually list a lot of bulb part numbers based on the bayonet base shape and bulb size. Different led placements are also available. It depends on where the light needs to shine. Incandescent s are not directional.

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7 minutes ago, MV8 said:

What was the issue with the gauge tubing?

 

Can you post a pic of the bulb? That must not be a part number they use anymore. I would expect to see a ba9s base (9mm/0.355"od, 180 pins), 13-15v rating, short globe top, and around 3w for an incandescent replacement. Part number 57 is typical. Led replacements usually list a lot of bulb part numbers based on the bayonet base shape and bulb size. Different led placements are also available. It depends on where the light needs to shine. Incandescent s are not directional.

 

 

First gauge tubing kinked, when feeding. I realized I needed to straighten it before feeding next round so I used heatgun to get it a lot straighter. Regardless seems like a weak point to have oil running all the way into the cabin, but I need a means to an end to get a true reading so here I am.

 

The light is k5632 but does cross to bulb you mention 

 

PXL_20230521_160325802.jpg

 

 

Screenshot_20230521-144751.png

 

Edited by Vovchandr
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I heat a large pot of water, then hold it above the bottom with a wire and watch it expand to the size of the pot, then hold it straight with clothes pins as it cools to room temp. As long as the tube is well protected, they last for decades. I've never had to replace one but I have replaced the tube because I nicked it. The tubes and hardware were about $10 last I checked.

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On 5/21/2023 at 2:59 PM, MV8 said:

All those part numbers don't actually interchange for brightness and glass size. You can compare on mcmaster.

 

Thanks. I'll look into that. 

 

Prepping all the carbon bits for Sika flex with Sika primer. CSR fenders, wishbones aero, CF headlight buckets rings. 

 

Couldn't figure out any good way to secure headlights in the CF bucket rings so just going to Sika them in there. Should work. 

PXL_20230523_205424375.jpg

Edited by Vovchandr
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Cat 😺 is going bye bye this week. 

 

I think it's clogged worse than I even thought. The engine is struggling to crank over with the exhaust on while I'm trying to troubleshoot it and compression test it. 

 

 

PXL_20230523_205433183.jpg

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It looks like the defective catalyst is only accessible after cutting at the case weld. They are fragile; easily broken up to smaller pieces that can fall out. Dyno tuning can shorten the life and like 02 sensors, they don't last forever in a best case scenario.

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Also Blackstone lab report

 

some of you guys are geeky enough to be interested in this

 

High iron use. Silicon could be from the headgasket change/valve cover silicon on corners of gasket. 

 

image.png.317779190ebb0aa61b043af20d3fbf6f.png

 

image.png.114d8bbafdea920e3f279f714dab583e.png

 

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On 5/24/2023 at 5:12 PM, Vovchandr said:

Also Blackstone lab report

 

some of you guys are geeky enough to be interested in this

 

High iron use. Silicon could be from the headgasket change/valve cover silicon on corners of gasket. 

 

image.png.317779190ebb0aa61b043af20d3fbf6f.png

 

image.png.114d8bbafdea920e3f279f714dab583e.png

 

.

Uhh “ visible ferrous debris”.  Maybe I need to read back farther in the thread…

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"Visible particles" is vague. Manual and automatic transmissions usually have magnets in the bottom/pan. I've seen magnets placed on engine oil filters to help catch and retain as well as magnetic drain plugs. That is one reason to change oil every 3-5k no matter what type it is or at least change the filter. There are smaller particles carried continuously by the oil that pass through the filter media and occasionally, some oil bypasses the filter entirely.

Long ago, the EPA forced mfgs to rewrite the book on normal use, pushing longer intervals between recommended oil changes (with no change it in the oil itself). Don't fall for it.

Synthetic is great but it still carries particles past "normal" oil change intervals if not changed. I'd rather have fresh, clean dinosaur oil and change it and the filter every 3k.

Edited by MV8
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Full disclosure. The particles could very likely be from my Accusump grenadining on the track day or the head gasket change/poking around with metal on cams and/or crack in the cam alignment tab when I left the alignment bar on but kept turning motor... 

 

I don't expect them to be high next round. 

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After years of accumulating parts, some of them are finally getting mounted 

 

Lower headlights (god what a horrible job. It would be easier to buy a newer 7 🙄)

CF pods

CF headlight buckets

New Led blinkers

CF Westermann Aero

CF nosecone aero

CF Westermann CSR fenders 

 

Still figuring out some mounting 

 

Also got to utilize econoseal plugs and tools and learn how to use them and used my aluminum (stupid expensive) anodized headlight through bolt hardware for the buckets.

 

Reused the LED light but now it's semi permanently attached to the CF headlight ring with Sikaflex as I couldn't figure out an alternative good mounting method. The ring is attached to the bucket with double sided tape for now and the headlight cover..

 

 

PXL_20230603_003638675.jpg

PXL_20230603_003628591.jpg

Edited by Vovchandr
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On 5/24/2023 at 4:12 PM, Vovchandr said:

Blackstone lab report

some of you guys are geeky enough to be interested in this

Spectrographical oil analysis is performed by burning the oil and reading the frequency and intensity of the light to determine each element and its concentration.  The metal has to be vaporized in the flame to get a reading, so only metals up to 6 or 7 microns show up.  That is how you can have visible metal and only slightly high readings.  Did you check the oil filter for visible debris?

Silicon is likely from new gaskets or sealant.  If it were from intake air, I would expect iron and chromium to be higher as dirt chews on the cylinders and rings. 

I assume you are using an SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30.  The 1% fuel dilution was enough to drop it into the SAE 20 range; perhaps a mitigating factor in the lead (bearings) reading.

If you have changed the stock cam to one with higher performance, it will create more pressure between the cam and cam bucket.  If so, I would recommend a diesel engine oil or a racing oil; something with more zinc to protect the cam. 

Oh, and who are you calling a geek? 😊

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24 minutes ago, oilteq said:

Spectrographical oil analysis is performed by burning the oil and reading the frequency and intensity of the light to determine each element and its concentration.  The metal has to be vaporized in the flame to get a reading, so only metals up to 6 or 7 microns show up.  That is how you can have visible metal and only slightly high readings.  Did you check the oil filter for visible debris?

 

Silicon is likely from new gaskets or sealant.  If it were from intake air, I would expect iron and chromium to be higher as dirt chews on the cylinders and rings. 

 

I assume you are using an SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30.  The 1% fuel dilution was enough to drop it into the SAE 20 range; perhaps a mitigating factor in the lead (bearings) reading.

 

If you have changed the stock cam to one with higher performance, it will create more pressure between the cam and cam bucket.  If so, I would recommend a diesel engine oil or a racing oil; something with more zinc to protect the cam. 

 

Oh, and who are you calling a geek? 😊

 

 

You're quite a lurker! Thank you for the input. 

 

Cams are unchanged but I figured between using tools on the caps and one of them having a mechanical failure in the alignment tab some metal could have been made there. My Accusump grendaded on the track too with failed threads but I don't think it was steel. Bearings are likely an issue regardless. 

 

Filter is still in place and I can take a look at it. I bypassed the external filter and my front oil cooler for now and just put a regular filter on the motor in meantime. I can take a look at the filter at some point. 

 

Yes 5w30. I assume you're in the industry?

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Started the car yesterday with all new ignition parts and now no catalytic converter.

 

Still hard to start, still sounds like it fumbles around. Big backfire pop a few times upon startup now from intake ITB runners and or exhaust. Scared me a few times.

 

Made progress on datalogging and got my first recorded dummy test log! @catsv7

 

Now have to figure out how to wire in the wideband to be added to logs and I might be in good shape soon for this. Since the battery for ancient laptop is NA, I got a small power inverter from Ridgid that works to power laptop on the move quite well!

 

RIDGID 18V Cordless 175-Watt Power Inverter (Tool Only) AC86097 - The Home  Depot

 

In meantime I'm leaking oil from both ends of the mechanical oil pressure gauge and will have to address that after cleaning up the spill on the driveway... I think the compression fittings have to go a lot tighter than I've tightened them to.

 

On the pressure side of things, my pressure is about at 6 bars cold and about 3.5 warm which I'm happy with seeing as thats close to normal.

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I don't know if this is a factor, but the nylon tube is fully seated in the gauge/engine fitting before bringing the ferrule and nut down the tube to thread snug. The nylon will be protruding from the ferrule if it was seated correctly during installation. If not, the nylon can be re-terminated and the piece stuck inside the ferrule removed with a razor blade. It bites into the nylon when you tighten the nut.

 

You can lightly snug, run the engine, and tighten the nut enough to stop the observed leak. Too tight and the gauge/engine fitting threads will be damaged.

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Back on the road!

 

Used Bosch's Teflon fittings which are slightly better and probably did an automotive nono but used thread seal tape as well on connections to fix leaks. So far dry!

 

Maiden voyage to local car show yesterday and drove it to work today

 

PXL_20230611_170840247.jpg

 

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Edited by Vovchandr
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