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New guy. Here is my Cat


Vovchandr

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1 hour ago, Vovchandr said:

Also troubleshoot my troubled map a little more 

 

Still no data log. Barely had time to test the @catsv7 gave me and adjustments @NSXguy suggested I do to the fuel map table.

 

Acting like a blind squirrel looking for nuts I was able to throw some numbers into the tables that seemed to fix that part throttle flat spot/stumble/misfire I had. I only did a quick test

 

@catsv7 car didn't really start well with your profile and map and shot a major fireball upon one of startups. Barely ran. I took screenshots and compared data between our setups. They are different but aren't night and day so not quite sure why it acted so bad. 

I believe adjusting the idle/starup portion of the map can be tricky. We are dealing with small magnitudes on the commanded injector opening time. The actual opening is comprised of a ramp from closed to open, a ramp from open to close with a "flat" in between. The fuel flow passed is also dependent on the injector flow number and the fuel pressure regulator setting. On top of this scheduling are adjustments for sensed air temperature, pressure, battery voltage and if a cold start is detected. These modifiers may be different between our ECUs, further complicating comparisons. I have noticed that "small" injector opening time changes can cause big swings in AFR. I have been tweaking the map at idle beyond the one I provided. This is because I put in a smaller capacity alternator and cold air intake system drawing air in front of radiator. Once the engine is warm it idles at close to 1100 rpm with +/- 50rpm hunting. 

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, catsv7 said:

I believe adjusting the idle/starup portion of the map can be tricky. We are dealing with small magnitudes on the commanded injector opening time. The actual opening is comprised of a ramp from closed to open, a ramp from open to close with a "flat" in between. The fuel flow passed is also dependent on the injector flow number and the fuel pressure regulator setting. On top of this scheduling are adjustments for sensed air temperature, pressure, battery voltage and if a cold start is detected. These modifiers may be different between our ECUs, further complicating comparisons. I have noticed that "small" injector opening time changes can cause big swings in AFR. I have been tweaking the map at idle beyond the one I provided. This is because I put in a smaller capacity alternator and cold air intake system drawing air in front of radiator. Once the engine is warm it idles at close to 1100 rpm with +/- 50rpm hunting. 

 

Im not coming an area of knowledge but it almost felt like the timing was off? The engine really didn't want to be running and I could keep forcing it by restarting it when it died. During one of the startups it backfired very loud that my better half came out of the house to see if I was Ok, so I took pictures of your setup and uploaded mine back. 

 

I can try again at a different date to maybe mess with further tuning you described above. 

 

With that said if my car is happy with my map I can stay on it and just use the differences as a guide as to what values to adjust and in which direction. 

Edited by Vovchandr
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  • 1 month later...

Putting the car away for the season. Doing some numbers.

 

Doing a quick audit looks like it was 587 miles this season.

 

201 of them or so being track miles over 2 days at NJMP according to napkin math.

 

The oil hasn't been changed in probably two or three years now. Will change it and send it to Blackstone to see what the results say.

 

  • 2024 - 587 miles
  • 2023 - 250 miles (no track day)
  • 2022 - 600 miles (no track day)
  • 2021 - 800 miles
  • 2020 - 1700 miles
Edited by Vovchandr
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/25/2024 at 2:48 PM, Vovchandr said:

Looking at the track pictures

 

Looks like some years it was closer than others

 

The one in your screen shot is the fender that's held on by the bolts so it must by the original stay

 

This picture is from 2022 and is another factory stay with a glued fender yet very similar

 

image.png.5f7ef8b06787e72dd0b2d74018531099.png

 

So dove into this today

 

Not any closer to discovering why left fails but also realized I never used Race mounts on left and did switch to race mount on right so I had a mismatched set when not on CSR mounts. 

 

Race sits a bit lower/closer to the tire. 

 

Here are some comparisons 

 

 

PXL_20241120_205749593.jpg

 

PXL_20241120_205926066.jpg

 

The sharpie line is how far the mounts need to move over on the back. 

 

PXL_20241120_211440557.jpg

Edited by Vovchandr
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8 minutes ago, Croc said:

 

 

Yep it was "brace fluid".

 

Glad you did a track event with that brace fluid....

 

 

 

Autocorrect. 

 

Plus we all know I don't go fast enough to need anything besides engine brake. 

 

Either way fair criticism. Not sure what the floaty stuff is. That needs to go. Using your syringe currently so thank you for the long term tool rental. 

 

Will use the little tester to test other cars in the family. 

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1 hour ago, Vovchandr said:

 

Using your syringe currently so thank you for the long term tool rental. 

 

 

 

NOOOOOOO!

 

The lesbian inseminator/turkey baster was used for oil removal.  Don't use it in the brake system as you could inadvertantly cross-contaminate the brake system. 

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