Vovchandr Posted October 2, 2024 Author Posted October 2, 2024 Quick shot from today's Bday quick trip and thank you for @wemtd for stopping by to the humble abode and the gift. It's nice to see friendly faces outside of the stressful track days. 2
catsv7 Posted October 2, 2024 Posted October 2, 2024 1 hour ago, Vovchandr said: Also troubleshoot my troubled map a little more Still no data log. Barely had time to test the @catsv7 gave me and adjustments @NSXguy suggested I do to the fuel map table. Acting like a blind squirrel looking for nuts I was able to throw some numbers into the tables that seemed to fix that part throttle flat spot/stumble/misfire I had. I only did a quick test @catsv7 car didn't really start well with your profile and map and shot a major fireball upon one of startups. Barely ran. I took screenshots and compared data between our setups. They are different but aren't night and day so not quite sure why it acted so bad. I believe adjusting the idle/starup portion of the map can be tricky. We are dealing with small magnitudes on the commanded injector opening time. The actual opening is comprised of a ramp from closed to open, a ramp from open to close with a "flat" in between. The fuel flow passed is also dependent on the injector flow number and the fuel pressure regulator setting. On top of this scheduling are adjustments for sensed air temperature, pressure, battery voltage and if a cold start is detected. These modifiers may be different between our ECUs, further complicating comparisons. I have noticed that "small" injector opening time changes can cause big swings in AFR. I have been tweaking the map at idle beyond the one I provided. This is because I put in a smaller capacity alternator and cold air intake system drawing air in front of radiator. Once the engine is warm it idles at close to 1100 rpm with +/- 50rpm hunting.
Vovchandr Posted October 2, 2024 Author Posted October 2, 2024 (edited) 9 hours ago, catsv7 said: I believe adjusting the idle/starup portion of the map can be tricky. We are dealing with small magnitudes on the commanded injector opening time. The actual opening is comprised of a ramp from closed to open, a ramp from open to close with a "flat" in between. The fuel flow passed is also dependent on the injector flow number and the fuel pressure regulator setting. On top of this scheduling are adjustments for sensed air temperature, pressure, battery voltage and if a cold start is detected. These modifiers may be different between our ECUs, further complicating comparisons. I have noticed that "small" injector opening time changes can cause big swings in AFR. I have been tweaking the map at idle beyond the one I provided. This is because I put in a smaller capacity alternator and cold air intake system drawing air in front of radiator. Once the engine is warm it idles at close to 1100 rpm with +/- 50rpm hunting. Im not coming an area of knowledge but it almost felt like the timing was off? The engine really didn't want to be running and I could keep forcing it by restarting it when it died. During one of the startups it backfired very loud that my better half came out of the house to see if I was Ok, so I took pictures of your setup and uploaded mine back. I can try again at a different date to maybe mess with further tuning you described above. With that said if my car is happy with my map I can stay on it and just use the differences as a guide as to what values to adjust and in which direction. Edited October 2, 2024 by Vovchandr
Vovchandr Posted November 12, 2024 Author Posted November 12, 2024 (edited) Putting the car away for the season. Doing some numbers. Doing a quick audit looks like it was 587 miles this season. 201 of them or so being track miles over 2 days at NJMP according to napkin math. The oil hasn't been changed in probably two or three years now. Will change it and send it to Blackstone to see what the results say. 2024 - 587 miles 2023 - 250 miles (no track day) 2022 - 600 miles (no track day) 2021 - 800 miles 2020 - 1700 miles Edited November 12, 2024 by Vovchandr 1
Vovchandr Posted November 20, 2024 Author Posted November 20, 2024 (edited) On 9/25/2024 at 2:48 PM, Vovchandr said: Looking at the track pictures Looks like some years it was closer than others The one in your screen shot is the fender that's held on by the bolts so it must by the original stay This picture is from 2022 and is another factory stay with a glued fender yet very similar So dove into this today Not any closer to discovering why left fails but also realized I never used Race mounts on left and did switch to race mount on right so I had a mismatched set when not on CSR mounts. Race sits a bit lower/closer to the tire. Here are some comparisons The sharpie line is how far the mounts need to move over on the back. Edited November 20, 2024 by Vovchandr 1
Vovchandr Posted November 22, 2024 Author Posted November 22, 2024 (edited) Doing some deterred maintenance. Checked my brake fluid... Not too good.. Edited November 22, 2024 by Vovchandr
Croc Posted November 22, 2024 Posted November 22, 2024 1 hour ago, Vovchandr said: Doing some deterred maintenance. Checked my brace fluid... Not too good.. Yep it was "brace fluid". Glad you did a track event with that brace fluid.... 2
Vovchandr Posted November 22, 2024 Author Posted November 22, 2024 8 minutes ago, Croc said: Yep it was "brace fluid". Glad you did a track event with that brace fluid.... Autocorrect. Plus we all know I don't go fast enough to need anything besides engine brake. Either way fair criticism. Not sure what the floaty stuff is. That needs to go. Using your syringe currently so thank you for the long term tool rental. Will use the little tester to test other cars in the family.
Croc Posted November 22, 2024 Posted November 22, 2024 1 hour ago, Vovchandr said: Using your syringe currently so thank you for the long term tool rental. NOOOOOOO! The lesbian inseminator/turkey baster was used for oil removal. Don't use it in the brake system as you could inadvertantly cross-contaminate the brake system.
Vovchandr Posted November 22, 2024 Author Posted November 22, 2024 29 minutes ago, Croc said: NOOOOOOO! The lesbian inseminator/turkey baster was used for oil removal. Don't use it in the brake system as you could inadvertantly cross-contaminate the brake system.
Vovchandr Posted December 10, 2024 Author Posted December 10, 2024 New Blackstone oil report is out Even more aluminum and iron, this time on even less miles. Last time I thought it might be high because my Accusump exploded so maybe parts of that were in the oil, but this time I have no Accusump, no oil cooler, regular WIX filter (maybe filter sucks?) and its even higher than before. I even fixed the misfire (very recently but still) 1
Vovchandr Posted Monday at 12:27 PM Author Posted Monday at 12:27 PM Anybody have experience with these types of machines? Amazon.com: Fuel Injector Cleaner Tester CT160 Heated Injection Systems Cleaners 4-Cylinder Petrol Injection Nozzle Cleaner Tester With Atomization Observation,Injection Volume Detection,Tightness Test 110V/220V : Automotive
mrmustang Posted Monday at 01:28 PM Posted Monday at 01:28 PM 58 minutes ago, Vovchandr said: Anybody have experience with these types of machines? Amazon.com: Fuel Injector Cleaner Tester CT160 Heated Injection Systems Cleaners 4-Cylinder Petrol Injection Nozzle Cleaner Tester With Atomization Observation,Injection Volume Detection,Tightness Test 110V/220V : Automotive Not that specific machine, but back in the early to mid 2K's, I worked for a race shop that had one. Beautiful, stainless steel, think they paid $4,500 for it. It allowed for balancing, testing, cleaning, when you needed to wring every last portion of performance out of the engine they were being installed on. 1
Vovchandr Posted Monday at 03:43 PM Author Posted Monday at 03:43 PM 2 hours ago, mrmustang said: Not that specific machine, but back in the early to mid 2K's, I worked for a race shop that had one. Beautiful, stainless steel, think they paid $4,500 for it. It allowed for balancing, testing, cleaning, when you needed to wring every last portion of performance out of the engine they were being installed on. Yeah "real" machines are solid, I certainly don't need for a pro grade for a rare occasional use. Definitely wanted to run the test to help partition out misc issues I have. If one isn't cycling right I'd rather find this out from the getgo than chase a tail around for a while. I know one of my cylinders runs colder than the rest and this has moved from cylinder to cylinder looking back at the thread and the pictures. Hard to pinpoint exactly what has caused it to move with all the changes I've done overtime. Maybe I'm overthinking this. 2021 - cylinder 4 I believe it's on cylinder 2 now. I'll double check next time I run it.
mrmustang Posted Monday at 06:33 PM Posted Monday at 06:33 PM 2 hours ago, Vovchandr said: Yeah "real" machines are solid, I certainly don't need for a pro grade for a rare occasional use. Definitely wanted to run the test to help partition out misc issues I have. If one isn't cycling right I'd rather find this out from the getgo than chase a tail around for a while. I know one of my cylinders runs colder than the rest and this has moved from cylinder to cylinder looking back at the thread and the pictures. Hard to pinpoint exactly what has caused it to move with all the changes I've done overtime. Maybe I'm overthinking this. 2021 - cylinder 4 I believe it's on cylinder 2 now. I'll double check next time I run it. Sounds like a fuel issue, especially if it moves from cylinder to cylinder. Dirt or air in the fuel system can do this, when is the last time you bled the system and changed the fuel filter? Then again, how old are the injectors, are they high impedance or low impedance units? The injector system you linked to seems like just the ticket for a home mechanic. Let us know how that goes. Bill
CarlB Posted Tuesday at 07:03 PM Posted Tuesday at 07:03 PM I have no experience with this machine or any of the other ones, but you can have a lot of injectors cleaned, tested and balanced for what it cost. 1
Vovchandr Posted Tuesday at 07:28 PM Author Posted Tuesday at 07:28 PM On 4/7/2025 at 2:33 PM, mrmustang said: Sounds like a fuel issue, especially if it moves from cylinder to cylinder. Dirt or air in the fuel system can do this, when is the last time you bled the system and changed the fuel filter? Then again, how old are the injectors, are they high impedance or low impedance units? The injector system you linked to seems like just the ticket for a home mechanic. Let us know how that goes. Bill Should be high impedance from looking at my notes from last measurements. Dirt is a possibility
Vovchandr Posted Tuesday at 07:29 PM Author Posted Tuesday at 07:29 PM 24 minutes ago, CarlB said: I have no experience with this machine or any of the other ones, but you can have a lot of injectors cleaned, tested and balanced for what it cost. True, but diagnostic tools are good to own, especially with a number of vehicles between myself and my family. Depending how hard it is to setup might be a good thing to run/test and clean every once in a while.
mrmustang Posted Tuesday at 08:23 PM Posted Tuesday at 08:23 PM 51 minutes ago, Vovchandr said: Should be high impedance from looking at my notes from last measurements. Dirt is a possibility I'm going to throw another one out there for you to ponder on, a potential leak in your fuel line when under pressure. My friend who is balancing the TWM throttle bodies finished the front end alignment and was taking the car out earlier today and smelled fuel. Drove it on the alignment lift and found a small leak starting in the -6 braided line. Now awaiting the new -6 line to be delivered and between the two of us will get it buttoned up. Hopefully back at the house before the end of the week.
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