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It's ready for Dyno


Bartman

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Ordered back in June my new Raceline Zetec is finished and going on the dyno tomorrow, the Sadev box arrived from France today too. Here is the new beating here is the soon to be beating heart of my 7  IMG_2182.thumb.JPG.b1a8bbf038b0bb240b9b0bdf268952c6.JPGIMG_2180.thumb.JPG.559d6a95e6e4541e57b5d2f10a12f976.JPG

 

Cant wait to get it up and running.

 

Bart.

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Yes It’s still in the UK. Peter and Chris have been amazing and patient. I’ll post the dyno when I get it. I’m pretty interested to see how the numbers come out. I hope this will be stateside by November. 
 

 

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Got word from Chris at Raceline that the first Dyno yielded close to 260 HP using the Dyno Exhaust, they are going to run it again with my exhaust tomorrow and smooth out the mapping a bit then it's on its way. I don't have the trace yet but will post that when I get it.

 

Bart

 

 

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The spec is the "standard" 250 HP Raceline spec, the head is reworked to allow larger valves and higher lift cam, 85mm forged pistons, Carillo rods etc. with 48mm ITB's

 

This is the complete spec:-

 

2000cc Ford Zetec FOCUS Engine - New 1  
RetroFord BDA Zetec Cam cover    -     RetroFord p/# Z057 1  
RetroFord filler cap   -     RetroFord p/# Z062 1  
Crankshaft trigger housing - manual 1  
Flywheel - FOCUS - Lightweight 1  
Clutch - plate heavy /duty - cerametallic  1  
Clutch - cover heavy /duty 1  
Inlet manifold gasket 1  
Inlet manifold - standard Omex 1  
Inlet manifold - match to cylinder head  1  
Inlet manifold fitting kit  1  
Block to bellhousing dowels  2  
Raceline water rail  1  
Raceline water rail fitting kit 1  
Thermostat housing kit - Billet Elbow 1  
Water rail 'Focus' mounting strap 1  
Blanking plug - heater - water rail 1  
(if running heater please add £1.55 for 90 degree elbow)    
Tensioner upgrade 1  
Spigot bearing 1  
Wet sump pan kit  1  
Focus windage tray kit  1  
Sump gasket 1  
Dipstick  1  
Dipstick tube 1  
Oil filter  1  
Heavy Duty Oil Pump (Steel Gears) 1  
Raceline modified cylinder head - 250 1  
CNC upgrade to Phase 3 spec.    
Includes oversize inlet seats, std guides    
Assemble and set tappets 1  
85mm forged piston set - 19mm pin / 12.5CR - Omega  1  
Bore cylinder block to suit 85mm forged pistons  1  
Steel connecting rod set - Carrillo 1  
std big end 141.9 ctrs, 19mm pin    
Valve Set - 34.5 / 29.5mm 1  
Collet Set - single groove 1  
Heavy duty spring set -27mm 1  
30mm cam follower set - solid 1  
Top hat shim set 7mm 1  
Camshaft RL250M 1  
Cams UL39/40 12.5/12.0mm 30mm BCD    
Main bearing set  1  
Big end bearing set 1  
Ford cylinder head gasket 1  
Ford cylinder head bolt (set) 1  
Alternator mounting kit 1  
Injection mounting studs and nyloc set 1  
48mm Throttle body set 1  
Fuel rail kit - push-on type    (-6 also available) 1  
Throttle linkage inc bracket 1  
Fuel pressure regulator      (-6 also available) 1  
Ram pipe 48mmx90mm 1  
Air temperature sender 1  
Water temperatuere sender 1  
Lambda probe 1  
Throttle potentiometer  1  
ECU module  1  
Wiring loom 1  
Spark Plug - Denso ITV24 (set) 1

 

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They told me redline at 8200 but I will scale that back, not sure what I'll limit it to yet, I need to see the actual dyno trace using my exhaust to see what makes sense. It was run up using UK 98 RON (US 93 POM), I also had them fit a knock sensor and upgraded to wide band Lambda (from SBD) so should be good and work out well using the MBE9A9  - (not that I know enough about this to be sure :) )

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Really impressive results.  I'm curious to see how the exhaust change affects the shape and height of the torque curve.  Did they share the specs of the dyno exhaust so you know how it differs from the one you will use?

 

-John

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Chris did not share the spec of the Dyno exhaust, but, they are going to re-run the Dyno with my actual exhaust on it as they are supplying the complete end to end exhaust as part of their package. So in the end, I should have both traces and be able to make that comparison. Chris believes we will see a slight drop in the figures from the initial run but still be making mid 250's I'll post both when I have them for anyone that is interested.

 

I am curious myself, and to understand what sort of parasitic loss I will get from crank to wheels, I read somewhere its +/-18% but have no clue. Not that it matters as it is what it is, but still curious.

 

 

 

Bart. 

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BlueBDA,

 

I would have "preferred" to go the Duratec route (lighter and more choices  available 2.3 2.5 etc.) but the induction and exhaust on the Duratec is opposite to the Zetec and the car already has a Zetec in it, I did not want to go though the hassle of changing panels, engine mounts and all the other routing of pipes etc that would have been needed to go to a Duratec so decided to stick with the older Zetec design.

 

Bart

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51 minutes ago, Bartman said:

I am curious myself, and to understand what sort of parasitic loss I will get from crank to wheels, I read somewhere its +/-18% but have no clue. Not that it matters as it is what it is, but still curious.

15-20% is the range bandied about on the Internet, but there are simply too many variables to have an accurate, universal number.  Different dyno types and brands, different correction factors on the same dyno model, different rolling resistance of tires based on rubber compound, carcass construction, and air pressure, how tightly the straps are pulling the tires down against the rollers, the car itself (longitudinal vs transverse engine, transaxle vs. transmission + diff) etc.  My primary dyno facility has a lot of experience running the same engine on an engine dyno followed by installing it in the car then running on their old Dynojet.  They typically see a 15-18% loss depending on variables, and said a car like ours is generally at the top end of that range.  But again, that number is specific to their dyno and is subject to error.

 

Interestingly, dyno shops in the UK generally perform a coast down measurement to account for most of the systemic losses above and produce a corrected, at the flywheel number specific to that dyno session.  However, in the US that methodology is generally considered flawed and is rarely used.  Apparently the preferred temperature of our beer isn't the only head scratching difference between our two cultures.

 

As for Duratec vs. Zetec, I agree with you 100%.  Yes, a Duratec has more power potential and is lighter, but the Zetec can clearly produce a lot of reliable horsepower and isn't exactly a boat anchor.  If you already have a Zetec, I'm not sure the conversion hassles outweigh the gains.

 

-John

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Interesting about the Dyno I had no idea there was a difference. Even after nearly 20 years gone from the UK I still hanker for a warm pint of Theakstons Old Peculiar but I am heading to London tomorrow so that's on my agenda for sure :

 

I did look long and hard at the Raceline Duratec 300hp spec, it was in the same order of cost but then I also figured I'd have enough horsepower to scare myself silly with 250, so the hassle factor won out. 

 

With luck I will have all the pieces and parts here in the US around thanksgiving and have the whole thing back on the ground in a month or two thereafter. The list of things to do is rather long but will be a lot of fun to work on, the last pieces of the puzzle are getting the roll cage which is on order and coming over in a container during November and finalizing what to do about the brakes, it currently has the out of the box standard Caterham circa 2005 setup, I am still trying to figure that part out. 

Cheers!

 

Bart

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks great, that's a big torque spike between 4800-5500, should be fun. I owned a DYNOmite morotcycle dyno, in fact I still have the absorber and control unit. Thinking about building an engine dyno one day. 

 

Graham 

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