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Trying a Caterham on for size


JMK

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Thanks, again, everyone. I want to echo kayentaskier’s point about making seats with two part foam kits. The kits are great for making seats in tight places and, especially when they’re covered beautifully as in his example, they are very comfortable and look great. The hardened foam is the same material used for impact absorption in helmets, so they have a safety benefit, too.  The foam doesn’t have structural integrity, so you have to create a space for the foam to fill with fabricated panels if you aren’t filling in a space in a tub or chassis. It’s a great solution in race cars or for tight spaces in a street car. 

Edited by JMK
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You may want to look for an S1 Superformance if you like them at all,they are a couple inches shorter than an SV but a bit wider.. Also the pedalbox is I believe a bit wider with adjustable pedals fore and aft..

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Edited by spitfun
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It's simple, stretch it to  what ever fits you comfortable. Make it wider too , I don't recall seeing any rules that state this has to be  this and that has to be that , but , this is for building your own 7 , is not a bad project at all , actually very simple 

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Best results will be to either suspend yourself relaxed, an inch off the floor with a strong belt (chastity belt or wedgie option?) and hoist/rafter or add a 1/2 inch of high density foam below the cured poured foam (yoga mat?). I'm not sure what the kits cost but it's just regular density two-part foam and a large HD trash bag. Don't try it without an assistant to hold the bag top and pour. May want to double bag just in case. Don't get liquid foam on your skin and consider how much it will expand when deciding how much to pour.

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5 minutes ago, panamericano said:

Somewhere in the old postings, Croc has a nice series with photos of making one for one of his cars.  If you go that route, it would be worth looking for.

 

I think you're referring to this post:  

 

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I'd not seen the bead version. Beads or foam sheet do the same thing to prevent you from not having any cushion below. If you can be raised a bit, the curvature and pressure will be more even.

Just found a video of the traditional method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTGELArtLVE

Businesses that ship sensitive avionics equipment have foam guns that dispense into shipping containers with a thin layer of plastic (and the equipment bag) isolating the equipment. Nothing special. The fabric is stretchy felt applied with an aerosol adhesive that is safe for foams (3m) and typical of what is used to install headliners, which are often foam backed fabric glued to cardboard. Not very durable material but conforms well.

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This is the product I have used for three of my Caterhams, because it is intended for long term wheel chair seat cushions, it is very comfortable with many choices for firmness. It is likely heavier than the bead seats Croc references. Additional caveat, I don't track my car so it may not be appropriate for 5/6 way harnesses;

https://www.sunmatecushions.com/collections/sunmate-orthopedic-cushions/motorcycle-seat-foam

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/9/2022 at 4:49 PM, MV8 said:

I'd not seen the bead version. Beads or foam sheet do the same thing to prevent you from not having any cushion below. If you can be raised a bit, the curvature and pressure will be more even.

 

Just found a video of the traditional method:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTGELArtLVE

 

Businesses that ship sensitive avionics equipment have foam guns that dispense into shipping containers with a thin layer of plastic (and the equipment bag) isolating the equipment. Nothing special. The fabric is stretchy felt applied with an aerosol adhesive that is safe for foams (3m) and typical of what is used to install headliners, which are often foam backed fabric glued to cardboard. Not very durable material but conforms well.

 

The old cream colored poured foam seats were very fragile and actually shrank over time. Good for two seasons at most.
The material in the above video might be completely different.
All the "rich guys" in Formula mazda used the beaded seats which were more durable.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4525
Remember these poured seats make you one with the car. Ideal for racing.
For the street ? I dont know about that.

 

Also you want to sit somewhat upright, not slouch, when pouring because when seat is finished you rest against it as it gives support.

You dont want to make long drives in a slouch position

Edited by Lightguy
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  • 1 month later...

Greenville, SC here. Have a brand new CSR you might be able to have a sit in in a while (out of state until February). 

 

It's basically the same dimensions as an SV. I also have lowered floors. And the full cage. Makes getting in and out a full hot yoga session lol. 

 

Carbon heated tillets if it matters. Not much "give" in those. 

 

See my posts for pics. 

Edited by UglyFast
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Yes it's a tight squeeze getting in one , I have been giving this a lot of thought .I'm about to start another 7, this time with a 4L60 GM 

Automatic trans , this will make a lot of room in the toe box area , then widen the chassis by 4 inches , that's not even noticable when looking at it head on , then stretch it about 6 inches , from all sides with a cad program it still has all the looks and size as the original.

Just a tad , more. .  keeping the 4.3 V6 and the automatic trans will be enough power the new owner will ever need or want .

  I had to make my seats , did the frame in aluminum, and added slides on the driver side , covered in heavy padded vynol in black they ,, WORK . And feel good , right now my 7 is in a bag for the winter in my shop 

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