Lotus 7 Project Arrived

[IamScotticus]

If anybody's interested (nobody's interested), the spacing on my 95 Xflow is 11" from square (master cylinder mount) crossmember to rear head face.  I think my engine placement is about as far forward as possible. I can't even fit a toothed belt pulley kit.  I can't get a socket and bar between the crank nut and the chassis tubes. 

With only two inches between the bell housing starter bulge and the footwell corner, not enough space available to attempt a push back.  Unless I shortened the footwell.  nah. Il'l just keep wrench nicking my chassis tubes.

[ianashdown]

Like this?

 

Still confused, but I’ll be building it back to as near to as delivered in ‘61 as possible.

 

Ian

[7Westfield]

Now you have another puzzle

 

What gearboxes fit those propshafts?

 

hopefully, you can get a new yoke for whichever one you use, those are nasty

[Joe Petty]

My 7 uses a driveshaft with a straight collar like that black one.

My transmission is the "Internal Remote" which is slightly different from yours, but I suspect it is the same overall length.

 

Thing with these old cars is that the owners pickup parts at swap meets or wherever so they have them for the rebuild.  Unfortunately, many "English Ford Line" cars use very similar parts and it takes a sharp eye or a good reference book to know what interchanges!

I got 3-4 disassembled pre-crossflow and crossflow engines with my car.  I sorted out 3 complete sets of different length pushrods, multiple valve rockers, oil pumps,...

 

Looks like you have a good engine/transmission pair, be careful adding anything or swapping stuff.

That one rear axle looks to have the proper emergency brake ball crank and rods, don't lose track of that!

 

As always - Good Luck! 

Joe

[ianashdown]

Does anyone know of a number and letter stamp set that matches the early ‘60’s Series 2 Lotus chassis plate style of lettering?  Failing that, what is the height of the letters?

 

Thanks,

 

Ian

[ianashdown]

Here’s another question for the collective wisdom. 

 

My 7 was shipped from the factory in 1961 with an ‘A’ series engine.  Sometime around ‘64 & ‘65 the engine was changed to a Ford 105 E.  The car was disassembled in 1969 and stored until I bought it in 2023.  The engine as I received it had been fitted with a different crank and rods to give 1340cc, ported, had aluminum spacers on the rocker shaft, maybe an cam, and had twin 40 DCOE 2’s fitted, so sometime between ‘64 and ‘69 these various mods had been done.  
 

Does anyone know if the 40 DCOE 2 was a ‘64-‘69 period carb?

 

I have a set of 151’s in addition to the 2’s and I’m trying to figure out which are more period correct and which might be good choice for a 120E (1500cc) with an A2 or A3 cam, mild porting on standard valves.  I’m thinking 151’s, but I’ll be interested to hear other thoughts.

 

Thanks,

 

Ian

[MV8]

The 105E was only for 1961 and had twin SU H2. Twin DCOE40 started in mid-1961-on in the Super on the 109E. Ref: Coulter's Seven "Collector's Guide".

[Christopher smith]

For even more info , If you have not already, you might want to check with Bean Engineering about sourcing all sorts of info and parts. The catalogs are great.

[Joe Petty]

My original Weber carbs for my 1962 1340cc were long gone before I ever found the car.

 

The CoP shows: Weber 40DCOE2  12059 & 11795

 

Good Luck!

[SENC]

The "2"s would be of that time.  My 7 has "2"s with numbers matching the Lotus logbook.

[wdb]

I'm not a Weber wizard by any stretch but I believe the 151's are an updated design to help cope with emissions regulations.

 

Here's an article on the Elan forum discussing Weber carb numbers.

 

https://forums.lotuselan.net/t/weber-dcoe-40-18-or-31/30408

Edited February 12 by wdb

[ianashdown]

Ho about these two?  I haven’t seen any reference to these.

 

 

[IamScotticus]

I would invest in a sonic tank cleaner and use the recommended solution, whatever it is for aluminum.  It may be your best cleaning method without a full tear down, which I would try to avoid.  If you do tear down,  leave the spindles and plates alone.  But those DCOEs look like they should be fairly easy to clean as long as an emulsion tube or jet isn't seized inside. 

Just DON'T soak it in any solutions longer than necessary.  I ruined a carb soaking it in simple green too long.  All the surfaces went from smooth to pumice stone.

[pethier]

On 9/17/2025 at 10:25 PM, IamScotticus said:

Just DON'T soak it in any solutions longer than necessary.  I ruined a carb soaking it in simple green too long.  All the surfaces went from smooth to pumice stone.

Many moons ago on the ShopTalk email list, members warned not to use Simple Green on aluminum at all.

[Christopher smith]

With a pH of 9.3 ( 7.0 is neutral) simple green or any alkaline compound should not be used on aluminum. Also, never put aluminum in dish washers as they employ high pH compounds many times. I would think a carefully used petroleum solvent like naptha with a brush would clean well and safely if done outdoors and away from any fire source.

[theDreamer]

Don't laugh but my wife used Avon bubble bath to detail our motorcycles. Well diluted for seats, tanks, fenders and the like. Stronger for heavy soiled areas and a soft bristled brush to scrub the fins & carbs. Some heat marks, fuel and oil stains simply disappeared. Don't knock it until you try it.

Edited September 20 by theDreamer
Spellcheck

[IamScotticus]

Well, I've heard the best thing to clean carbs in is....

 

Wait for it.....

 

Gasoline!  Of course. 

I'm glad I have an extra CPAP for the ventilation I will need.

I still like the idea of a sonic tank  but not with gasoline in it.

Edited September 20 by IamScotticus

[Christopher smith]

almost everyone used gasoline to clean parts long ago back when it was cheap. Still no cheap solution and I started worrying about toxicity when lead was phased out and premium lead free needed an octane boost. Sure aromatics can boost octane but depending on the refining process might have some benzene rather than just the toluene, xylenes and ethylbenzene. Sorry for Organic chem 101 here.While benzene seems like a great octane booster, the strong possibility of leukemia later in life is a terrible trade. Not that leaded gas was trouble free of course so please be careful whatever you use and avoid respiratory and skin contact. Long term health is very well established on benzene but others are not as clear and maybe not worth risking. Chlorinated solvents for brake cleaning also mean toxicity risks.

[theDreamer]

Well back in the day my father used Varsol, turpentine or Xylene depending on what he was cleaning. Yes, gasoline too. In those dark days we didn’t wear gloves or think about fumes. Although, if any of us had our hands in it for any length of time Dad would make us stop and lather up with Mom’s hand lotion and then give us something else to do.

[toldfield]

Years ago the aviation industry had issues with using Simple Green on aircraft parts.  Since then Simple Green has modified the formula and markets a version that is okay with aluminum.  I think it is Simple Green Aircraft and Precision Cleaner.

 

Tom