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I see you're also in the bay area. I also see you're running aeroscreen. I'm much more often too hot than too cold in the car. The car roasts you pretty well in anything above 60deg temps. I also don't have carpeting so the metal tunnel conducts heat really well to my right leg. In cold weather, more heat coming underneath the dash doesn't seem all that helpful to me if you're running an aeroscreen. There's so much turbulence at speed that warm air will not stay in the cockpit. On cold AM drives to fall trackdays it is wicked cold. I have heated seats but the cold turbulent air really sucks the heat out of you. However I can't imagine the heater would help all that much unless you are running a hood/sidescreens. Would be more useful to wear a heated jacket/gloves (which I am considering trying after a 36deg drive to Laguna one morning that just about killed me).

I really should have specced the car without a heater, looks so clean! I think I'll not drill the heater valve control for now and drive around a bit to see if the heater core is really needed in addition to the heated seats and then decide.

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Look for SFI "dual durometer" padding. It has inner and outer sections where the outer is less dense. Pegasus lists it as, "Dual Durometer SFI 45.1 Roll Bar Padding"

To the top... New ad..

I'm no expert but doesn't seem right. My $0.01

Just got the 7 back after a long story you don't want to know about. Transmission has been rebuilt but it's super hard to shift and the shifter is all the way to the left under the 1st gear. It moves freely to the right but if I move it slightly to the right it's going immediately back to the left. Finding 3rd or downshifting is almost impossible. Check the video and let me know what you think is wrong.

No, it's not...it is made for padding and oblong so the thick portion faces the driver/passenger.... oh, I see Caterham's flip every day here abouts .... but that's not my worry...a small shunt where you are launched into your straps and then rebound.

Lol, I'm in Arizona in a small town about 70 miles from Phoenix.... nothing rusts here...nothing. One of my favorite things actually....

Anyone Know about de-pining the Body side of the Engine harness? I've got a no start and it appears the culprit is in this connecter. Pin numbers are for reference and probably not the actual connector because I'm not sure of the numbering on this connector. But It goes Red-5 White-6 black-7 on the engine side and then on the body harness it goes to White-5 Red-6 Black-7 (Red and White have switched positions). Leading to Crank Signal being at ECU pin 7 instead of 12 (which is supposed to be a power ground), and Crank Return is at Pin 11 (correct) and Power Ground is at pin 11 instead of 7.

Diff Day 3: It's done. I honestly still didn't think it was going to happen today - spent another 2 hours moving, jiggling, hammering, with no change. Another hour passed with my wife maneuvering the crobar been the diff and the jack. At some point, she got it just right and a few knocks with the 5lb hammer, the bolt started to go in and it just kept going. Lathered it up with more copper grease and sent it home. We promptly went out for a deserved beer 😆 I'm glad that's done with. Thanks for the words of encouragement! PS. If anyone sees this who hasn't installed their diff, remove the plywood boot floor and it makes getting access to the top washers very easy. You can get a full view of them and easily use a flat head to push on them 👍

What is the pipe diameter?

I'll have these in hand hopefully by the time I return to the US and will report back here with pics!

Here are the final designs I ended up with, being fabricated now. Anyone can order these themselves with the CAD files provided. Sendcutsend.com can turn these around in about a week. The material to specify is 5000 series aluminum, 0.08" thick. Antigravity ATX-12 HD Caterham Base Plate v11.step Antigravity ATX-12-HD Hold Down v9.step

@KnifeySpoony thanks!

Sticky posts can quickly get out of control if they aren't held to a very high bar. However, we can turn this into an article and post it in the Owner Resources section. I will make some other changes to aid discoverability. @CBuff shoot me a PM if you want to make any tweaks to that post for the article. To the rest of you, if you have a how-to that you wish to publish in that location, please let me know.

I got it from Summit Racing. It's 1 in thick high density SFI approved.

Indeed it does. I have been hemming and hawing about getting a seat reupholstery kit for the Elan from an English company. Trump announced tariffs and so I thought okay, let's get in under the wire, and placed an order. They took my money. Then they told me there is a 7-9 week backlog... ...I'm going to stay the course anyway. I'll try to remember to update y'all as to whether I pay a tariff.

Well new news throws even more wild cards into the mix

Flipping or getting otherwise launched isn't that uncommon with Caterham racing because of the exposed front wheels. I personally have made contact with another car on track (a tin top however) and was not launched thankfully. I should 100% have the full cage but I live dangerously.

It appears to me that what is on your roll bar is pipe insulation. SCCA requires SFI padding. There is a post with a web site above. I wouldn’t bother unless there was a place your helmet or head would hit it. Someone said belts stretch and that is true. How often have you seen a Caterham flip and land on its bar?

@JohnCh is it possible to sticky this or put it into the knowledge zone? Lot of great info here.

I've been down this rabbit hole for a little bit now; I'm looking to grab ITB's for my car. Note, it is a separate engine, however the mechanic's are the same. For the Jenvey, you will need to adapt it to your car. The engine builder of my car, who has a PhD in something smart, recommends doing some changes to these out of the box. DVAPower website If you scroll to the Throttle Bodies section, you will see what I mean, some bending, drilling etc. There is also the aspect of tuning. I am lucky that my ECU plugs directly into my harness, without requiring any cutting and uses all caterham wiring loom sensors etc. I am lucky in that there is an adaptor to the S3 harness that I have, and the TPS is reusable. Having done it a few times with my ECU, I'll need to reset my TPS, in addition to adjusting injector dwell / pulse width, you'll also need to double check your ignition advance. There are small tweaks which you can do but it requires an understanding of the software. i'm admittedly not great at this, but it helps to understand it. Jenvey should have an adaptor to your harness where you plug it in, you can ask for it.

Ive got the FIA bar with a half hood on an S3. I can confirm it fits a little loose/long. I'm with @Vovchandr, the padding is more of a mental support than an actual safety tool. Speaking of safety, I'd thinl the foam cover is worse (could retain water) and encourage rust. I'd ditch it, order the S3 half hood and call it a day. Your wife's height may require a cross bar pad or some sort of generic head support from jegs, if so desired.

@Reiver my car is all original as ordered form the factory. The custom two-tone grey “S” leather interior was 2064.29. The special leather boot cover was 150.00. The roll over bar’s custom padded leather cover was 85.00 and the spare tire cover was 75.00. This is taken from the 1993 Caterham invoice. I can’t see where it specifies the currency so these values may be in Pounds Sterling. I shudder to think how much a good leather man would charge to replicate this interior at today’s prices. Good luck with the half hood. Looking forward to seeing it on your car.