JohnCh

Dave has been banned for scamming someone. I've added a new sticky post on the Parts for Sale/Wanted forum in an effort to bring more attention to this issue. If you are contacted by a new member who offers to buy your part or sell you one that you are seeking, please proceed with caution.

It sounds like I should have included a smiley face. My comment was intended as sarcasm, not a correction. Regardless, calling them has always proven far more effective for me over the years.

I believe @GLBaxter has already found a car, but I'll look to him to confirm Give you are a paid club member, posting the photos here is fine, but if you were not a paid member, this would be viewed as an end-around to avoid paying the $20 membership fee and your photos would be removed. We need to be fair to those who do specifically pay the so they can sell their car. When you are ready, simply create a thread in the Cars for Sale forum.

That's your mistake. Chris (sales) and Peter (technical) are incredibly helpful, but they are challenged with email correspondence. Sometimes it's fine, sometimes it's a downright painful blackhole of silence. The best way to work with them -- and I've been buying parts from them since 2003 and as recently as last year -- is to pick up the phone and call. It might take a few tries, but once you get a hold of them, they should get you sorted, or at least help you understand your options.

There seems to be a lot of interest in this setup on BlatChat, so thought I'd give this a bump. If you don't have a high-level brake light, you should. And if you want something plug and play, this seems a worthwhile option to consider.

Just remember the rule for dealers: you must do you utmost to convince the buyers to join the forum and post photos We'd love to see an MK build thread.

Calling @MK Sportscars USA In case he misses it, their website is https://mksportscarsusa.com/

If you would like the final parts list uploaded to the Library, please send it via PM to @Croc and me.

Go to advanced search (do a search with an empty field), then click the Member Search tab, and enter Rotus in the Se7en field. However, for that to work well, people need to put that data in their profile. As seen in these search results, only three people with a Rotus have done that. I'd love to see everyone fill out that field as well as their location, as both bring a lot of benefits, but people have a right to decide what they choose to share publicly. BTW for those of us with two different brands of se7ens, you can enter them both in your profile and search will figure it out if someone only searches for one of them.

I don't want to break the forum up like this. You do it for one make, and you have to do it for all of them. Then we suddenly have sections for Rotus, Caterham, Burkin, Westfield, WCM Ultralite, Stalker, etc. Some people will naturally ignore a make-specific forum even though they may have insight that's helpful. The goal of this forum is to bring people together given our shared passion for se7ens, not segment us into small user groups. It's not necessary given the effectiveness of search. If you have something that is very Rotus specific, put Rotus in the title to aid future discoverability. A quick search just now for Rotus in content titles returns quite a few posts. https://usa7s.net/ips/search/?&q=rotus&quick=1&search_and_or=or&search_in=titles&sortby=relevancy

Most likely Bob Yarwood in OR. He built a few in CA but I believe those were much earlier than this car which looks like it's from the mid 90's.

I used the Ford factory water pumps for my last two engine builds, and both arrived fitted with metal impellers. I'm not sure how much the material matters, but I don't think the price between budget water pumps and factory water pumps is that significant.

I guess this would be a bad time to mention I'm changing the forum's color theme from shades of blue to shades of yellow. But I digress. The Simpson looks like an option: -John

That is the belt tensioner which is self-tensioning. Put a box end wrench on the nut then use the wrench as a lever to push the pulley towards the block and release the tension. The bolt won't rotate. There should be some videos on youtube showing this if you're unclear (search for water pump removal in Ford Focus with Duratec.) One tip is to attempt to loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley before you remove the belt. The tension should keep the pulley from rotating as you break the bolts loose.

Just to be clear, you hate yellow so much that you wouldn't consider Shroth's like CBuff's even if they are only in the car a few days per year? I believe Simpson and RaceQuip both offer yellow-free versions.

A few updates. Now that the low-level fuel feed issues have been resolved with a proper positive displacement pump, I swapped out V2 of the in-tank fuel assembly setup for my original version. Those keeping track at home may recall there were initial concerns that those fuel feed issues were due to additional plumbing restrictions in V1 which used a remotely mounted Hydramat attached to the tank floor. In contrast, V2 used a smaller Hydramat attached directly to the bottom of the pump but that placed it slightly above the tank floor. Unfortunately, I don't have good photos of either setup but these will give an idea of the difference. The top photo is the outgoing V2 with the positive displacement pump alongside, and the bottom photo is V1 but without the fuel sensor installed (the long silver tube in the V2 picture). While doing that job, I decided to map the Centroid fuel level sensor's output by slowly adding fuel to the nearly empty tank and taking voltage measurements after every gallon. I could then update the 0-5V sensor map used by the AiM to ensure accuracy throughout the range. What I didn't realize at the time is the sensor has a built-in empty to full detection capability triggered when certain conditions are met. I appear to have unintentionally met those conditions, creating all kinds of accuracy issues such as reading full with less than 3 gallons in the tank. After redoing it a couple of times with troubleshooting assistance from Centroid – whose support was excellent – things seem to be sorted but they did advise to watch for future anomalies as there remains the possibility the sensor has a random issue. During the mapping, I was also able to confirm the SV tank really does hold 41 liters. With the Hydramat, I should be able to access nearly all of it, rather than just ~35 liters as with the factory setup. This weekend I had my first opportunity to drive the car in hot weather. I'm happy to report the factory heat insulation works just fine. After one hour of driving in 90F weather with a very strong sun, temps were similar to the Westfield which has never had an issue in this regard. The unused fastener holes for the 3-point seat belts have been bugging me; they look unnecessarily unfinished. To rectify, I printed some plugs (don't worry, they add under 1.9 grams each) and popped them in place. -John

It's best to connect via PM and share email addresses there. Bots scrape the internet for email and phone numbers. Publishing them on the forum is just asking to be added to even more spam lists. If you aren't familiar with how to PM on this platform, please see this help guide:

You weren't kidding when you said you're willing to transport. Congratulations! Looking forward to reading more about it.

Very well done video! Did Ned's phone survive?

I know you had a long drive home, but 1300 miles in less than a month is impressive! Glad to see you're able to enjoy the car after such a long wait. Great photos!

In case you missed it, the 260 CSR in the for sale section is that size, and Croc posts a list of all known available cars listed elsewhere to his thread updated every Sunday. Latest post is below. Most Westfields (SEiW) have bigger interiors than the S3, as do WCM Ultralites, Brunton Stalkers, and the wide-body Birkins. If you are looking for people to contact you with cars not yet listed, it might be helpful to provide a bit more information like preferred age, condition, engines, and price range.

The Library is simply a repository of published information, some dating back to the 1950's. It's not intended to be a vetted list of historically accurate and verified information. I'm certain many of those books, manuals, and articles contain errors, particularly when it pertains to Lotus. Heck, even the Caterham build manuals have inaccuracies that are highlighted in various build threads and blogs. Pointing them out in a thread for discussion as done here can be worthwhile, but we can't be in the business of tracking those inaccuracies and highlighting them for each download or pulling the article simply because it contains errors. I'm not saying that is the ask here, but I want to make sure to we're setting correct expectations. Thanks, John

Duncan Cowper was a few seconds slower than last year when he turned a 9:57.072, but he still made the top 10: