JohnCh

When it's ready, please attach it to a PM to the two of us and we can sort it. I opted to point you to that page for instructions, given it's not clear when you will have a final copy ready, and that process may change -- in fact, it did on Saturday

Just follow the submission process at the top of the Library page once the doc is final.

The PCD should be 4x108 but not sure about offset given this is a live axle car (SE not SEi). I seem to recall it differs, and might even differ front to rear, so definitely worth measuring. @Paul summers are you looking for a matching spare or just a spare that fits?

Folks, please remember this is a member's advertisement. We should keep the conversation focused on his car and refrain from muddying the waters with pictures of other cars or links to other auctions. Thanks, John

It's in the library under WCM Ultralite > Build & User Guides:

Change made:

I made a few changes to the navigation menu today. The Support ticketing system is being deprecated in the upcoming software release. Therefore, I have removed Support from the top-level menu. Most people simply PM me directly or use the Contact Us link at the bottom of the page when they need help, so that is the new process. Downloads is now called Library which is more intuitive, and it has been moved to the top-level menu thanks to the extra space from removing Support. -John

Downloads is the default name in the forum software for that section. We didn't' know how it would evolve over time so didn't change it, but given the current state, it probably makes sense to rename it to something more intuitive like Library. Stay tuned.

In my defense, in 23 years of continuous se7en ownership, I've never had a heater Hopefully that helps 11budlite locate it this weekend.

@11Budlite checked and it's not next to the fuel tank on the Sigma. Looking at the photos on PistonHeads, it appears it may be behind the engine. Note what looks like the red 12v+ battery cable. Anyone recognize that location? BTW although the PH thread calls it a MFRU, Ford lists it as a fuel pump control module (AU5A-9D370-FC). It doesn't control any other circuits.

That category of shoe is called Barefoot, and quite a few have a normal toe box rather than the individual toe set up. I use Merrell's from their Glove line but do a search on Barefoot shoes to find plenty of other options.

Info here: https://ppihc.org/competitors/duncan-cowper/ Below is an interview with Duncan conducted last year that includes in car video going up the hill.

I noticed the same thing, but it is possible that the ECU controls the main FP relay instead. The MBE simply switches that programmable output to ground when the engine is over a specified rpm to ensure the pump won't continue to run if the engine stalls. It doesn't send any signals to adjust the pump speed based on a table or a fuel pressure reading like more sophisticated systems. As @11Budlite states, it's likely not the issue but interesting to understand nonetheless. The fact that one fuel pump assembly is over 85% more expensive than the other tells me something is significantly different. Or it's just another example of head scratching pricing from Caterham

This part of the article is no surprise, but it still makes me shake my head in disbelief: "Ask Laishley how long it takes to build a Caterham and he answers candidly, “I don’t know.” That’s because each builder has his or her own methods and each car is unique." How can you drive towards consistent quality, efficiency, and profitability in a production environment when everyone does it their own way? The new space is pretty though.

With a single fuel line, you should have the PWM controller I mentioned earlier. Here is a picture of mine. It's a Ford item so I bet the version used on the Sigma looks very similar or is even the same part.

If the relay wiring on the Sigma is the same as the Duratec, the relays are grouped in sets of three that are then connected to create the six-relay string you see in the fuse box. Unfortunately, sometimes Caterham switches which group of three starts the string, but the FP relay should be in either position 2 or position 5. Group 1: Starter > Fuel Pump > Cooling Fan Group 2: Reverse Light > Flasher > Ignition I just took a look at the back of my fuse box and I do see the Y/G wire snaking its way towards that relay. It might be worth pulling the suspected relays and checking continuity to the inertia switch. BTW Assuming the Sigma operates like the Duratec, there is a module on the left of the fuel tank that functions as the PWM control for the fuel pump. That could be another area to check for a problem.

I hear weeds are a great absorbent.

It's about time! Hopefully this is part of a long-term trend.

This seemed an appropriate post to try out the new shocked reaction Amazing they could get it that wrong.

If you are comfortable with simple fabrication, you can build a small glovebox to fit over the transmission tunnel ahead of the gear lever. I've done this for both the Westfield (sheet aluminum) and Caterham (3D printed). It makes it very convenient to store paperwork, ear plugs, and other small items and is relatively hidden so not a magnet for casual thieves. As for batteries, I like Lithium, but understand not everyone is a fan. Antigravity offers a built-in jump-starting feature, that shuts down the battery while there is still enough juice to start the car and allows you to access this with a push of a button. No need for jumper cables. Speaking of which, when I have carried those, I've carried a set designed for a motorcycle which are far smaller and lighter and have done the job when I've jumped other se7ens on tours. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UKD6II -John

If you haven't already gone through these two recent threads, they might be a good starting point. Some of your questions may be addressed, or they will trigger new questions to ask the group.

No apologies necessary. Unfortunately, you can't embed videos from dropbox as they don't allow direct linking to the video, just the page where it's displayed. You would need to upload the video to YouTube or Vimeo, then paste that sharable link in the post. Car sounds good

In case anyone was wondering if it's okay to post on someone's for sale ad that you recently sold the same item for less than their asking price, the answer is it's not. As per the guidelines, if you don't like the price, send a PM. In this case, someone already agreed to buy the belts this morning at the $300 asking price, but now I feel like an ass taking that amount after this post. Given it' a small community and I was trying to price these for friendly deal to a member, I've told him to send $250 instead.

Have you explained to her that as the webbing ages, the material becomes less effective, and these new belts are much safer? That's why the FIA requires a date tag and requires new belts every 5 years. Hmm...given the safety aspect, perhaps I should increase the price?

To save me the effort of replying to any more scammers who join the forum just to contact me about the belts, these are available only to forum members in good standing.