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Everything posted by JohnCh
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That's a nice feature. Is there a similar bracket on the rear of the chassis, or are you only expected to go off the road backwards? -John
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@VovchandrAll it takes are a few people willing to invest the time necessary to handle the myriad of logistics and a sufficient number of people with se7ens who are willing to commit the time and money to attend; both of which are easier said than done. Speaking from experience, odds and planning difficulty are inversely proportional to the number of cars committing. Biggest tour I planned spanned 5 nights and 4 driving days with 9 cars committing and 2 dropping out at the last minute. I can't imagine the effort required for anything bigger. Something at the USA2005 scale is off the charts difficult.
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Every forum member can share their photos in the Members Album located in the USA7s Gallery. You may do so either directly or by creating an Album associated with your account. Paid Club Members may create up to 3 albums and upload images as large as 6mb. Registered Users thresholds are 1 Album and up to 3mb per image. To add an image to the Members Gallery, click the + Create button at the top right of any page, then select Gallery Image from the drop down. On the next screen, click Select then choose Member Albums and follow the prompts to add images to either a new album, your existing album(s) or directly to the Members Gallery. When creating a new album, you have the option to allow comments and ratings for the images it contains. You can change this at any time by going to the album, clicking Manage album then edit. To view the album of a specific member, or to view your own album(s), visit the user's Profile page, then click the Albums tab. To access all the images within an album, click on either the album title or one of the preview images from that album.
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Have you tried this style of ball joint separator? I used this one from HF on a particularly stubborn set of front ball joints on a 993. I cranked it down really hard on the first one until I feared something would break, then let it sit in place while I prayed to various deities. After about a minute, there was an unholy bang and the ball joint popped out. The tool created enough force on the other ball joint that it actually bent the threaded end which then had to be removed with a cutoff wheel. -John
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The following are taken from the FAQ and answer the most common questions about Private Messaging on the forum (PM). How do I Private Message (PM) someone? This are four ways to initiate a PM: Click the envelope icon at the top right of any page, then Compose New button. From a thread, click their username or avatar to access their profile page, then click the Message button at the bottom middle of their cover photo. If you don't want to leave a thread you are currently reading, rather than click on their username or avatar, simply hover the cursor over either one. This will generate a popup window with summary profile information. Click on Message in lower left corner of popup Go to your inbox and click the Compose New button. How do I reply to a PM when I receive a Notification email for that PM? First, do not reply to that Notification email. It will not go back to the person who PM'd you, rather it will go to default email box that sends these notifications. Instead, click the blue button in the email that states Read full message which will take you directly to the PM. Alternatively, you may go to your Forum inbox and click on the message. How do I access my Inbox for Private Messages (PM)? Click the envelope icon at the top right of any page to open the preview window for your inbox. At the bottom of that preview window click on Go to inbox. Why can’t I send a Private Message (PM)? If you are unable to send a PM, either your inbox or the Inbox of the person you are trying to reach is full. When attempting to send a PM to a user whose Inbox is full, you will see an error message in red text under the To field stating "<user> cannot receive messages." If, however, you click Send and nothing happens, then your Inbox is likely full. To check, look for the fill bar at the upper right corner of your Inbox. If it shows you still have space, then please open a support ticket. If it shows you are at 100% as per the screenshot below, you will need to delete messages from your Inbox. Inbox storage limits are 50 messages for Registered Users, and 500 messages for Paid Club Members.
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The following are taken from the FAQ and answer the most common questions about creating, editing, and deleting your posts. How do I insert an image from my device to my post? You can either drag file to the bottom of the editor box, or click choose files from that same location and find the image on your device. Uploaded images are limited to no more than 20MB. You may upload multiple images per post, but please try to limit this to no more than 5 images to aid readability and keep page length in check. How do I insert an image or embed a video hosted elsewhere? Simply get the URL of the image or video and paste it in the editor box. The software will automatically embed it. Images must be hosted on a secure site (URL starts with https not http.) Special note for users of Microsoft’s Edge browser: The January 2020 release of Edge will by default paste the image or video title rather than the URL address. The workaround to this behavior is to right click > Paste as > Plain text. Why does my photo appear upside down on the forum but right-side up elsewhere? Short answer is because your phone was upside down when you took the picture. Your phone logs meta data in the photo indicating which direction you intended as up. Unfortunately, this information isn't always transferred correctly when a photo is uploaded or emailed, and further, some source systems simply don't know how to read the orientation data. To fix this open your photo in your editing software of choice and rotate the photo at least one full revolution, then save and upload it to the forum. This works most of the time. If your photo is the exception, a quick hack is to use the Snipping tool in Windows to take a screenshot of the photo while it is right side up, then save and upload this new image to the forum. How do I take a photo with my phone right side up? In portrait mode, the lens should be at the top of the phone. In landscape mode, the lens should be at the upper left corner. How do I quote a single post? Simply click on the word Quote below the post you wish to quote (do not click the Plus sign to its left). That post will then appear in a light blue box within the editor box at the bottom of the page. If you only wish to only quote part of a post, you can click inside the blue box and remove the unwanted portion. Next, type your reply in the white section of the editor box. immediately below the quoted blue section. However, do not type in the blue box or your text will appear as if it's part of the post you are quoting. Note: if you are color blind, the light blue box may be a little difficult to differentiate. Fortunately, the blinking text cursor automatically defaults to the area below the blue quote box, so pay attention to where that sits before clicking your mouse and moving the cursor. How do I quote a portion of a post? Click into the post, then drag your mouse to highlight the desired portion. When you release the mouse button, a small "Quote selection" button will appear immediately below. Click that and the highlighted portion of the post will appear in the editor box as described in the instructions above for quoting a single post. How do I quote multiple posts? Click on the Plus symbol next to the word Quote below each of the posts you wish to quote. Once you all the posts are selected, click on the little window that appears in the lower right of the page that shows the number of posts you have quoted. Each quoted post will then appear in their own blue boxes within the editor box at the bottom of the page. Follow the instructions for editing the quotes and posting your response explained in How do I quote a single post? in the FAQ question immediately above this one. How do I preview my post before submitting it? Simply click on the last icon in the editor box (shown circled in red below) How do I edit my post? Click the ellipse in the upper right hand corner of your post (shown circled in red below), then select Edit. Make your changes then click the Edit Topic button. Posts can only be edited within the first 24 hours after submission. If you are past that window and really, really, really need to make an edit, please open a Support Request for assistance. How do I delete my post? Deletion can only be performed by an Administrator, however, you can edit your post within the first 24 hours and remove the content. If there is a reason this is not sufficient, please open a Support Request for further assistance.
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@John B I've looked at your Hasselgren 2.4L thread on more than one occasion From the dyno picture, it looks like you're using shorter air horns with the roller TBs to keep everything under the bonnet. Is that correct? Once the Caterham is done, it will go on a chassis dyno. 270hp should be more achievable based on the spec, but initially the stock 420R exhaust will likely cap the fun below 260hp. My plan is to drive the car in what I'm referring to as restrained-mode for a while and see how it goes. If I'm scaring myself silly, then I'll leave things as-is. If not, then I'll explore longer air horns with a through bonnet filter and/or a custom exhaust manifold and Raceco exhaust. I received the following message last night from the shop doing my head: "I just finished the last of the flow testing tonight after a few days of trying to pull out some reasonable gains without getting carried away, and I am happy to tell you it was worth it! You should easily meet your performance target and everything is coming together well." It sounds like it will arrive here next week. The next hang up is the mechanical timing chain tensioner which is still dragging from Raceline. I spoke to Peter again this morning who promised to get something sorted soon. -John
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There are a few companies that make self-cancelling electronics. I've used one from Cadent for many years (17?) on my car. Works great, but they stopped selling to the public to focus on OEM business. Signal Dynamics make one for motorcycles and BlinkSTOP in the UK makes a unit that's been wildly popular in Westfield circles for well over 10 years. It is configurable to work with either the classic ON-OFF-ON toggle switch or a momentary pushbutton or rocker. I'm going for this one on my new build. However, for a genuine Lotus Seven, there is a cool factor with the mechanical timers that's tough to beat. -John
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The replacement main bolts arrived from Esslinger yesterday and went in this morning. The sump pan now fits correctly and is installed along with the oil pump. After taking care of that, I swung by Beachman Racing to pick up some of the parts I've ordered for my custom dash setup. While there, I had the opportunity to see a Caterham with the new rear LEDs installed. To my eye, they look better in person. The big surprise though was the new reversing light built into the same fixture that houses the license plate light. Insanely bright! It will be hard for someone to miss when backing out of a parking space. -John
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If you really want to upgrade, there are new gearsets available with much better ratios. I have BGH converted Type-9 with a real first gear. Lots of good information on the Type-9 in the Downloads section here: https://usa7s.net/ips/files/category/31-gearbox/ -John
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Excuse to install a 5 speed? -John
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What a great project! The transmission looks like it could be the Ford Type 2 as shown here in the Burton's catalog. Might be a starting point to pursue if no one knows definitively. As for crossflow parts resources, RD enterprises and Dave Bean both carry some parts and are generally extremely helpful. I'm sure there are others who will chime in with more options. -John
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@Bill I just added brief descriptions on how to quote single & multiple posts to the FAQ located here. There is also other information in the Forum Help Guides section that may help you navigate the software. Feel free to send me a PM if you need any assistance. Now back to the thread topic -John
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The Regular Summary of Classified Ads of Se7ens Found For Sale
JohnCh replied to Croc's topic in Cars For Sale
1996 Mitsuoka Zero1 for sale on BaT: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1996-mitsuoka-zero1/ -John -
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The mystery of the main bolts is solved. The OEM items were suddenly hard to get due to supply chain issues. Rather than delay my short block build any further, Esslinger opted to use a different OEM bolt from an Ecoboost that shares the same critical dimensions. The one difference is head height. For the Ecoboost application, Ford uses a taller head that is drilled and tapped to receive a small fastener. Esslinger now has the OEM main bolts on hand which measure under 8mm high and should fit without issue. Once those arrive, I'll swap them out and get on with the build. -John
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Looking to purchase first Seven - advice on Westfield
JohnCh replied to David Hansen's topic in General Sevens Discussion
I can't add much to what Kitcat wrote above. Interior space should be the same as the early Lotus as these were near exact replicas (and hence the reason there was litigation). The only things I'd add is that as with any se7en that age, try to look closely at the frame to make sure there are no surprises. Westfield still uses the A-series engine in the Westfield XI, so there is always a chance that some parts you may need are still produced for that implementation. Of course, Murphy's Law states they will only still produce the parts you don't need, but that's for another thread. BTW a great resource for Westfields is the WSCC forum. Huge knowledge base and likely some good pre-lit information there. -John -
I'd argue the industry standard in the US is pounds/hp, whereas bhp/metric ton seems to be the popular measure in the UK for both manufacturers and publications. I suppose that might not be clear to everyone reading the US Caterham site, but it shouldn't be surprising given that site also uses KG rather than pounds, KPH rather than MPH, and marginally higher PS (aka metric horsepower) rather than HP. Then there is the use of the words hood to describe the soft top and bonnet to describe the hood. It's all so confusing -John
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Caterham's current convention for the model names is to double the claimed bhp and round slightly when desired. It's no longer intended to represent an accurate bhp/ton. 620R = 310bhp 420R = 210bhp 360R = 180bhp 170R = 84 bhp -John
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I'd call the shop and ask what percent loss they normally see on stock engines that come through their shop. If they do any volume, they should have a guestimate based on experience and that will give you an idea if the number is wildly off or in the ballpark. The thing that surprised me is the big torque dip around 5k. Assuming that's not exaggerated by scaling issues, does anyone know if that is normal in the 420 without roller barrels? Looking at the curve for my old engine that has the same cams as the 420 but Jenvey throttle bodies and a different exhaust (4-2-1 with very long secondaries), it's pretty flat with the torque peak much higher in the rpm range. -John
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I just got off the phone with Peter at Raceline. He confirmed the ARP main studs aren't needed and as Andy notes, do require a little fettling to fit the dry sump pan. However, because Ford won't sell the OEM main bolts in the UK, he only has experience with the Mazda equivalents they use instead. While we spoke, he measured the height of the head on a spare bolt sitting on his bench; it's only ~10.5mm high, so much shorter than what I have and fits without any clearance issue. I'll call Esslinger later this morning once they open. -John
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Andy, was that the Raceline dry sump? I'm looking forward to seeing how this works out too -John
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Locking this thread since it is a duplicate of the one located here. If you wish to post a comment, please go to the original thread to avoid splitting the discussion. Thanks, John
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First step after mounting the block on the engine stand was assembling the dry sump. In lieu of instructions, Raceline sent several photos to help me figure out which part goes where and confirmed the torque settings in my wet sump assembly manual still apply. After cleaning the sump, the various parts -- of which there were surprisingly many -- were attached and it was ready to dry fit to the block to ensure there were no issues. Guess what? Yep, issues. Esslinger advised me to save my money and stick with OEM Main bolts as the ARPs aren't needed unless it's a boosted Duratec making more than 500hp. Typically, I prefer to waste money and overbuild things, but this time I decided to be fiscally responsible and take their advice. Bad choice. It turns out the heads of the OEM bolts are really tall (>15mm), and although they would present no issue for a wet sump, they foul the dry sump pan as seen in the photo. I'll call Raceline and Esslinger in the morning to figure out the underlying issue and how to address. My suspicion is ARP main studs are much shorter and I'll need to swap them in. I suppose the other possibility is Raceline sent me the wrong dry sump pan. They do call out a specific version for the 2.5L, but I have no idea if that is for marketing purposes or if there really are design tweaks. -John