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JohnCh

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Everything posted by JohnCh

  1. I'm not sure how this is wired, but if the relay is upstream of the the inertia switch, have you confirmed it is getting power and switching correctly? -John
  2. Hopefully this weekend won't be the last nice one in the area before winter fully kicks in. Assuming weather cooperates, do you have an eta for when you can take your first proper drive? -John
  3. Wow, +80hp from 4400rpm to 5400rpm. That should make it entertaining. -John
  4. Quite a different aero setup than before! Is there a noticeable difference between the two? -John
  5. According to the estimate, the dyno tuning charge is only $1200 so just a couple hundred above your high number. Given they are starting from scratch, $1200 is reasonable in the Seattle area, particularly if they are tuning for drivability. Why do they have a line item for a MAP sensor but not a TPS? Aren't you still running the ITBs? -John
  6. I checked the route book from that leg of the USA2005 tour to confirm my deja vu feeling from the photo. It's the same hotel. -John
  7. I'm looking forward to reading the rest of this adventure (and hopefully seeing more photos of the Giulia Super). It sounds like a great trip. BTW the photo of the hotel in Cambria looked really familiar; it turns out it's the same hotel we used for the USA2005 tour. Small world! -John
  8. They are often referred to as exploding rivets. If you do a search on that term a number of sources come up. Here is one: https://bryke.com/rivets/exploding-rivets/ -John
  9. Hi JT, make sure you follow this thread. It's updated each weekend with cars for sale in Canada and the US: -John
  10. That is definitely @Alaskossie. I have a photo of him standing next to his car wearing that same hat taken on our Monterey tour in 2010. Thanks for sharing! -John
  11. Great idea, and although I have no knowledge to share, I want to plant a seed that this thread could form the basis for an addition to the Articles section of the forum. -John
  12. The drain/fill plug can be a PITA to access depending on the car. It's located on the driver's side of the transmission case (LHD car)with very little clearance to the transmission tunnel and chassis tubes. Check out the Transmission downloads section of the forum here. Lots of good articles on the Type-9 that should help. One suggestion is to thoroughly clean the trans/bellhousing/block area to remove all traces of the leaks, then identify the point(s) of origin. Oil has a tendency to wick away from the leak point, or be blown around while driving, so just looking at it as-is can give false positives to the actual source(s). -John
  13. I'll take the bait. I'm far from an artisan. More like not-egregiously-incompetent. I went with Emerald because, at the time, a lot of Westfield and Caterham owners in the UK had gone that route. This meant a large pool for community support to back up Emerald's great direct support. Emerald also has a dyno on site and tunes engines, resulting in a large library of maps they make available to their customers as starter maps which really speeds up the process. From a functionality perspective, the Emerald has a self learning function that allows you to create a target AFR map based on load and rpms and it will adjust fueling to meet those targets as you drive the car. That is not something unique to Emerald, but it's a great feature to consider if you plan to do the map yourself. If @Croc does go for the Emtron, that may be your best option since he or his minions could provide in-person support. -John
  14. I've updated the thread title. Congrats on the sale! Where did it end up? Thanks, John
  15. 15-20% is the range bandied about on the Internet, but there are simply too many variables to have an accurate, universal number. Different dyno types and brands, different correction factors on the same dyno model, different rolling resistance of tires based on rubber compound, carcass construction, and air pressure, how tightly the straps are pulling the tires down against the rollers, the car itself (longitudinal vs transverse engine, transaxle vs. transmission + diff) etc. My primary dyno facility has a lot of experience running the same engine on an engine dyno followed by installing it in the car then running on their old Dynojet. They typically see a 15-18% loss depending on variables, and said a car like ours is generally at the top end of that range. But again, that number is specific to their dyno and is subject to error. Interestingly, dyno shops in the UK generally perform a coast down measurement to account for most of the systemic losses above and produce a corrected, at the flywheel number specific to that dyno session. However, in the US that methodology is generally considered flawed and is rarely used. Apparently the preferred temperature of our beer isn't the only head scratching difference between our two cultures. As for Duratec vs. Zetec, I agree with you 100%. Yes, a Duratec has more power potential and is lighter, but the Zetec can clearly produce a lot of reliable horsepower and isn't exactly a boat anchor. If you already have a Zetec, I'm not sure the conversion hassles outweigh the gains. -John
  16. Really impressive results. I'm curious to see how the exhaust change affects the shape and height of the torque curve. Did they share the specs of the dyno exhaust so you know how it differs from the one you will use? -John
  17. If you like the older style round tail lights, the Land Rover units are another easy to find option. -John
  18. If no one here has a source for the ones used by Caterham, measure the head diameter (might be metric) then check out the sizes available at McMaster Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/ Lots to choose from so you should be able to get exactly what you need or at least very, very close. -John
  19. Some of this may be identified in the various books available on the model, but no idea which one(s) is best from this perspective. Others may know. BTW If you haven't seen it, @Croc posted a reading list article that is a great reference of published materials: -John
  20. Word choice is important in marketing. They state it's "our lightest production seven of all time." i.e. it's Caterham's lightest seven, not the lightest seven made by Lotus. Although Caterham bought the design rights from Lotus, they have no claims on the sevens produced by that company. -John
  21. Thanks for following back up with this information. I'll keep it in mind when it's time to register my new build next summer. As for missing out on the Stalker, don't give up and make sure to follow @Croc's thread which is updated each weekend. It's the best place to find a se7en listed for sale in the US or Canada. -John
  22. Hi Dave, I just checked and it looks like you've exceeded your PM storage limit of 50 messages (you have 54) so you will need to delete some to reenable the PM function for your account. And to avoid confusion for others who read this, Paid Club Members have a limit of 500. -John
  23. Exactly what I needed, thank you! -John
  24. Does anyone know the footprint dimensions of the SV fuel tank? For my build I'm investigating using the Holley HydraMat as part of the upgraded fuel delivery system and need to figure out which model is the best fit given the size of the tank's floor. Thanks, John
  25. This is one of those items where Caterham may still be able to get it but don't add it to the online store. Might be worth a call to ask. Regarding other sources, I know both SVC and Car Builder Solutions in the UK carry that style in that size, but they might differ slightly from the Caterham version. -John
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