MHKflyer52

Ouch that hurts.....But a good point.......

My jaw now hurts from laughing after reading that.

Put some curb feelers on it and it would look like a CATFISH on streiods...... :d :jester: :jester:

Did the samething........

Mazda, The trailing links on my car are 12 inches from center to center and mounte 9inches apart. the important thing to get correct is the mount on the rear end needs to be centered on the axle tube for both top and bottom otherwise your axle will tourque twist more on acceleration also you need to set them for you max upward droup with out having the rear contacting any structure and that includes keeping your shocks from bottoming out to their stops. If you put adjustable rodend in you can adjust them for better control of alignment and wheel hop if you find that you have that problem. Make sure your panhard rod is also level with the centerline of your axle when the car is sitting on the ground to keep the float even when taking bumps and turning. Hope this helps.

Selfish YES when it come to my 7 are you not also...... :d :d :rofl: :rofl: :yesnod: :yesnod:

Franklin 7s not the only V8 on the forum now. Very neat and I like the way you did your rear fenders and tail lights. What is the overall length as it looks to be long and low.

THANK YOU for serving our country and our people. I know that their are many times while serving the United States Armed Forces that only a Uniformed Service Member understands that what they are doing is for the betterment of all people and they will never recive acclamation from the general pubilc or the people of the world for their sacrfices they have and will make. So to all of you that have served our country and the world while others have scoffed or belittled our Armed Forces and what they have done or are doing I give you my THANKS for the freedoms that we all take for granted everyday of our lives.

Great looking car and the wheels look great. Having lived in the Northwest I bet you mowed the grass before the photo also as I knew in grows and grows when ever the sun is even thinking about coming out but that is why that part of the country it is so green and beautiful.

Your not serious are you John.

Today is the first time I have seen fuel at these prices in my local area. (Union 76 just off the 101 freeway in Camarillo CA.) $4.99.99 for low lead :crazy: :shocked: $5.09.98 for regular :crazy: :shocked: $5.21.85 for preium :crazy: :shocked: $5.26.99 for diesel :crazy: :shocked: This just baffels me as most of the filling stations I see are still below what this one stations low lead price even for deisel in the local vicinity that I am in. :shocked::crazy: just :crazy: :shocked:

From the looks of those headlights I would say they came off a snow plow setup. Just my guess but I think they are Meyer Nite Laisers or something to that effect as I had considered something close to those when I built my 7.

I like the grill Badge and I think it is the first one that I have seen used that way. Very nice.

Well I guess MORE POWER is very true for all of us as it just increases the smile factor.

That is one heck of a windshield defroster and very cool to boot.

But your car looks good and you enjoyed the drives, what more can you ask for.

My gas milage in my home built 7 (when the MGB engine is running and not overheating) is limited to seat time which is about 3 hours of constant driving or about 150 miles due to my age.... no just kidding my car averages 28 mpg ( I have a lead foot ) and I have a 6.5 gal. gas tank..... In all truth though I find that after about 1.5 hours of driving I just need a break and that makes for a good time to look for a gas station to fill the car and get something to drink ( H2O, Soda, Cola, Ice Tea, etc... ) and then more driving and more fun.

Very Cool. Thanks

Hi Roll-a-7 and MoPho, I am not fireing or throwing any stones here as I do agree with what you say but also diagree that our 7 polute more than other autos that are on the road. I tend to think that 95% of the 7's that are out their probably would pass the current Calif. Smog test with relative easy as most of them have a proformance tune and run better that most of the new cars on the road due to their owners paying a lot more attention to their operation and proformance, that what 98% of the driving public dose with their rubber stamped autos that are now on the road. A friend of mine that owns a smog test facility has told me that they see a lot of newer cars that fail the test due to lack of maintance (improper tune-ups, bad or dirty air filters, or lose or missing vacume hoses) or improper modifications that people think makes their car run better. An example is the oversize exhaust systems that you see on some cars, yes they reduce back pressure but if that is the only modification to the car it will not retain enough heat in the system to help burn off the gasses that the stock system is designed to due and can also make the computer think it is running to lean so it will richen the fuel air ratio which can also cause it to fail. This is all just my belief and oppion which should be taken with a grain of salt. PS: I have not see a 7 with smoke coming from the tail pipe like this GIF as of yet have you.:7head: I have seen tire smoke though and even provide some of it my self.:rofl:

Hi Skip, First thing I checked after checking to see if the fan belt that drives the water pump was not missing. Thanks for the input. :7frog:

Hi Gert, Good point but with the MG engine the altenator and water pump are small so no relocation is necessary and the one belt drive only goes on one way and the altenator is used to keep tension on the belt. Thanks for the thought though. Everything at this point looks like a crack in the head so later today or tommorow it is going to come off and be inspected. Now I just have to deside on a cross flow head or go with a stock head as they are about the same price for each and the cross flow head means changes, mainly new carbs and a new hood. I am seriously considering looking at a V6 as I can get a low milage engine and trans for what a new head is going to cost at this point but for now it looks like the head is coming off and then I will know better as to what direction I will be going. :7frog:

Hi Lowflyer, Thanks for the tip on the pressure cap. I have actually replaced the old cap thinking that might be the a problem due to it being weakend from time and use. I have had the same result with both the new and the old caps, as for the fan my engine has none as it uses an electric one mounted on the radiator and I have checked it and it is working as it is suspost too. As for air in the system I actualy have though that might be a problem but have eliminated that early in the trouble shooting process. Thanks for the input as it keeps me rethinking what I have tried and provides me with other ideas to try. :7frog:

Hi Gert, I have actualy removed the radiator and presure flushed it to make sure that it is not pluged or gumed up and I have also tried running the motor with out the thermostat and the only differance is it overheats about twice as fast. One friend of mine that is into british car restoration in a big way (Wellwood Auto Restoration, Inc.) has sugested that I most likely have a crack in the head in one of the exhaust ports and as the engine heats up under higher RPM's and greater pressures then lets the exhaust due two things, one is that it can suck the coolant out of the water jacket and vaporize it so that it dose not show up in the short exhaust system that I have on my car. The other thing that he has said it could due is presurize the water jacket and cause the coolant to get superheated and not be able to cool down even with the radiator and the fan and the thermostat and water pump all working correctly. This is a good posability as my head has been ported and that makes the walls a lot thinner and prone to cracks and besides the head on my engine is 30 plus years old and I am the one who rebuilt it and did the porting back when I rebuilt the motor 3 years ago so I am thinking that is most likely the problem a crack in the head in one of the exhaust ports. Thanks for the sugestion of useing some thermal cuple probes to check the inlet an outlet temps as that is about the only thing that I have not done and will due that tommorow as I due have a Fluke Meter and at least one thermal couple that I can tape to the inlet an outlet of the engines water jacket. I due know that I will also be replacing my hoses as I noticed that they were swelling a lot under the presures that they have been seeing even though they are holding for now they sure have been stressed by excesive heat and pressure. I will post what I find as I progress with solving this problem. Just have to get one of the other cars out if I want to go for a ride. Again thanks for the sugestions as they always help in trouble shooting.

Well replaced the old water pump with a brand new water pump. The old pump has a little more gap between the housing and the impeller but other than that they look the same. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OldAndNewWaterPump Put the new pump in and and also replaced the themostat with a new one to be on the safe side (they are cheep and someone told me to try a 165 degree), filled the radiator and engine with coolant and insured that their was no air in the system. Started it up and let it warm up, it seemed to level out at about 190 degrees so I decided to go for a spin. Looks like the head needs to come off and be replaced as the temp stayed at about 190 to 195 around the neighbor hood but as soon as I was able to get up over 55mph the temp started to climb so I headed back to the garage. By the time I was able to get back to my garage the temp had climbed up to just over 220 degrees and was not showing any sign of cooling off. :banghead: :cuss: I guess the head needs to come off and be replaced. :banghead:

MoPho, You should not have any trouble as your car is registered in NJ and you purchased it their. That is were the money transferred so the sale is from NJ and all you should have to due is pay the sales tax and get it smoged and transfer the title and registration into Calif. because the car has already been registered and titled else where in another state. It is like you purchased a 2000 what ever in another state and brought it home with you. If you were to place my Outback that was purchased in Oregon next to an Outback that was sold here in Calif the same year and month that I purchased mine in Oregon the only differance is that their is a sticker on the radiator support that states the car is a Calif Smog Cert Car whish means that the tune is just a little different and it runs a little leaner and hotter. Heck when I had it smoged the smog shop tech told me that my car passed with out any problems and runs cleaner that most of the new cars on the road from what he could see from his equipment and the test he had to run. The DMV is going to ask for a smog cert and check the vin to match the title that you should have and the registration from the other state and then the clerk is going to want to know how much you paid so that they can compute the sales tax for Calif. so make sure you have all of that info when you go into the DMV to register in in Calif. Also make sure you have proof of insurance for the new car so that you can give them a copy at the DMV or you will get a letter from SAC saying that the DMV dose not have any proof that the car is insured and that you registration will be suspended until you provide the necessary paperwork to them in SAC. This is what I had to due with my 7 , Porsche, Ford truck, Sabaru, MG and RV when we moved to SoCal from Oregon. I think it took all of an hour at the local DMV.