Nick OTeen

As I recall, I found those pedal overlays on eBay and they were relatively inexpensive. As you surmised, they are held in place by countersunk Allen screws. Reconturing the bends in the brake pedal required removing it and using a hydraulic press (along with using some metal bar stock scraps as dies) in a friend's auto repair shop. In all about a simple thirty minute process.

Regarding pedal setup to facilitate heel and toe work here's what I did. The first picture shows my Caterham's original pedal configuration. First off, the clutch and brake pedals were simply too small. You need more surface area than that provided by the little rubber pads, particularly on the brake pedal, to get a good feel and to be able to provide sufficient force. The other problem was the brake and throttle pedals being too far apart to allow heel and toe work. Additionally, the throttle pedal was a rather oddly-shaped thing. The solution was twofold. First was the addition of pedal "overlays" to address the lack of surface area. Second was to remove the brake pedal and, using a hydraulic press, redo the bends to bring it close to the throttle pedal. I should mention that, at least for me, "heel and toe" is something of a misnomer as I work the brake pedal with the ball of my left foot and the throttle pedal with the (right) side of the foot while my heel remains on the floor. The other, very important, element is to adjust the pedals such that when you are pressing hard on the brake pedal ends up on the same plane as the throttle pedal. This means under hard braking the ball of your foot is firmly on the brake while you blip the throttle with the outer edge of the foot.

You definitely should have a second throttle return spring, both as a safety measure and to give you more tactile feedback than what you are getting now from the single, existing spring.

Good source! Thanks for sharing that.

A few years ago I wanted to match up the factory headlight and running light/turn signal light connectors (that were similar in appearance the one in your photo). While I eventually did track down the company that produced them it ultimately ended up being easier to buy the needed bits from Caterham.

Mounting an exterior electrical cutoff switch is typically a requirement for racing applications. If you are more interested in just being able to isolate your battery (and perhaps for security concerns) then mounting it under the dash on the firewall as coffee break mentioned above is a great way to go. Besides, if you mount it on the outside of the car there's the chance some light-fingered ne'er do well (see photo) will come along and take it.

Same here. I've been using Crow for many years now to custom-make the six-point harnesses for my open wheel race cars. I'm lucky because I live in Orange County and can drive there, walk in and hand them an out-of-date harness which they use as the pattern for the replacement. They usually have the new one finished within a day and there have even been a few times when they turned the job around in one day and their attention to detail and specific requests is fantastic.

When it comes to the cost of all things automotive, honesty is overrated.

I've had a PC680 in my Caterham for eight years and it's still going strong.

I've long been a fan of the look of the taillights on various Donkervoort cars. They look better and more integrated than do the box of lights on my Caterham's rear fenders.

All the time or just while cornering?

Power steering is optional. I'm not sure I understand your question. A difficult comparison no matter how you slice it, but having never seen all, or nearly all, the members of this forum I'll have to take your word that it is about as attractive as nearly all of the USA7s forum members.

I would classify that massive rear diffuser as being real.

Nankang AR-1 tires.

Only a very few of the early ones that looked like your typical Lotus, or Catherhm, 7, but that was many years ago. As they are (albeit limited) production cars, rather than kits, Donkervoorts cannot be imported into the US; at least for use on public roads.

The "Super 7" destination originated in 1961 with the introduction of the S2 chassis which featured a bigger engine. Then there is this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Seven

Given that LOW price I just checked out that part number on line and it looks like it is not for a set of scales, but for a set of ramps used to roll a car up on to the scales. http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?prodid=8008

Agreed on the notion of having some local upholstery shop make up a soft top vs buying one from a vendor with proven experience. I bought my half-hood from Thundersport and couldn't be happier with the fit and quality of workmanship. For example, there is a specially-shaped seal integrated into the leading edam of the hood that seals up to the top of the windshield frame. I doubt a local upholstery guy would/could duplicate that.

My Caterham (with cycle fenders, pictured below) is a 2005 chassis that was assembled in 2007. It does not have side marker lights on the fenders and I had no trouble registering it in California. You didn't say what state you're in, but given that your car is registered as a 1967 Lotus 7 (and depending upon your state's regulations and inspection requirements) you may well not have any issue.

I didn't say anything about sloshing.

With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker, as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.

Yep, Caterham can provide stops (aluminum bushings held in place by set screws) for use on the steering racks of cars with cycle fenders. You could also easily source an appropriately sized shaft collar such as one of these: https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/shaft-couplings-collars-and-universal-joints/shaft-collars?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT

It's not built on a Caterham chassis. I don't understand your question there at the end but this is a true mid-engined car. The engine is fairly compact and sits between the rear axle and the centrally-located cockpit. It looks to be a very balanced layout.

The link worked for me. The article was mentioned earlier here in the forum in the thread linked below: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12650-USA-total-owners-count

For what car?