Nick OTeen

Good source! Thanks for sharing that.

A few years ago I wanted to match up the factory headlight and running light/turn signal light connectors (that were similar in appearance the one in your photo). While I eventually did track down the company that produced them it ultimately ended up being easier to buy the needed bits from Caterham.

Mounting an exterior electrical cutoff switch is typically a requirement for racing applications. If you are more interested in just being able to isolate your battery (and perhaps for security concerns) then mounting it under the dash on the firewall as coffee break mentioned above is a great way to go. Besides, if you mount it on the outside of the car there's the chance some light-fingered ne'er do well (see photo) will come along and take it.

Same here. I've been using Crow for many years now to custom-make the six-point harnesses for my open wheel race cars. I'm lucky because I live in Orange County and can drive there, walk in and hand them an out-of-date harness which they use as the pattern for the replacement. They usually have the new one finished within a day and there have even been a few times when they turned the job around in one day and their attention to detail and specific requests is fantastic.

When it comes to the cost of all things automotive, honesty is overrated.

I've had a PC680 in my Caterham for eight years and it's still going strong.

I've long been a fan of the look of the taillights on various Donkervoort cars. They look better and more integrated than do the box of lights on my Caterham's rear fenders.

All the time or just while cornering?

Power steering is optional. I'm not sure I understand your question. A difficult comparison no matter how you slice it, but having never seen all, or nearly all, the members of this forum I'll have to take your word that it is about as attractive as nearly all of the USA7s forum members.

I would classify that massive rear diffuser as being real.

Nankang AR-1 tires.

Only a very few of the early ones that looked like your typical Lotus, or Catherhm, 7, but that was many years ago. As they are (albeit limited) production cars, rather than kits, Donkervoorts cannot be imported into the US; at least for use on public roads.

The "Super 7" destination originated in 1961 with the introduction of the S2 chassis which featured a bigger engine. Then there is this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Seven

Given that LOW price I just checked out that part number on line and it looks like it is not for a set of scales, but for a set of ramps used to roll a car up on to the scales. http://www.longacreracing.com/products.aspx?prodid=8008

Agreed on the notion of having some local upholstery shop make up a soft top vs buying one from a vendor with proven experience. I bought my half-hood from Thundersport and couldn't be happier with the fit and quality of workmanship. For example, there is a specially-shaped seal integrated into the leading edam of the hood that seals up to the top of the windshield frame. I doubt a local upholstery guy would/could duplicate that.

My Caterham (with cycle fenders, pictured below) is a 2005 chassis that was assembled in 2007. It does not have side marker lights on the fenders and I had no trouble registering it in California. You didn't say what state you're in, but given that your car is registered as a 1967 Lotus 7 (and depending upon your state's regulations and inspection requirements) you may well not have any issue.

I didn't say anything about sloshing.

With any shock absorber you typically want to mount it such that the "spring end" is mounted to the suspension arm (or rocker, as shown in the first photo in post #1). This keeps the (heavier, fluid-filled) body of the shock relatively still while the lighter spring and shaft of the shock do all the rapid movement. That way the oil in the shock is agitated less which can reduce foaming of the oil. This also reduces unsprung weight in conventional, direct (no rocker) mounting to a suspension arm such as that shown in the photo of the rear suspension (second photo) in post #1.

Yep, Caterham can provide stops (aluminum bushings held in place by set screws) for use on the steering racks of cars with cycle fenders. You could also easily source an appropriately sized shaft collar such as one of these: https://www.grainger.com/category/power-transmission/shaft-couplings-collars-and-universal-joints/shaft-collars?cm_sp=Product_Details-_-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT

It's not built on a Caterham chassis. I don't understand your question there at the end but this is a true mid-engined car. The engine is fairly compact and sits between the rear axle and the centrally-located cockpit. It looks to be a very balanced layout.

The link worked for me. The article was mentioned earlier here in the forum in the thread linked below: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?12650-USA-total-owners-count

For what car?

Bossard North America, Inc. 6521 Production Drive 50613 Cedar Falls, IA Phone: +1 319 277 5520 Fax: +1 319 277 2964 https://www.bossard.com/en/product-solutions/brands/threaded-inserts/bighead/

Remember that in a car with a generator or alternator the battery is only involved when starting the car. Once the engine is running the generator or alternator (if working properly) provides all the electrical current the car needs (and also recharges the battery for that next start). So, as mentioned in post #3 the low voltage reading you're seeing tells you something else is amiss as it is not an indication of a bad battery.

If there's any left, you might think about throwing in some in to "sweeten" the deal. I love that stuff.