bball7754

I’m not so sure it’s a Weber part. Didn’t find it after a quick look on Pierce Manifold, although they do have lots of linkage parts and kits. https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/223.htm Maybe contact Redline Components in the UK? http://www.redlinecomponents.co.uk/

The owner of the Elkhart Collection vintage raced with the organization I race the Mallock with, the VSCDA. I met him briefly about 6 years ago, and last remember seeing him at a party at Gingerman in 2018. He would have a tractor trailer with 6-8 cars with him, and all sorts of support crew. Believe his daughter and maybe son-in-law also raced. I was told he had lots of cars, and he clearly had money. But no idea his collection was that large.

Looking for confirmation (I guess) that what I've found is indeed the dreaded "cottage cheese". First, a confession. The Seven has not been exercised since last summer's NJMP event. Life has been complicated, and the Mallock has been absorbing all my attention. That's my excuse, and I'm sticking with it. But, one of the reasons it's not been driven has been how the engine has been running since the end of the track event. Basically, running on what seems like 3 cylinders, and unable or unwilling to clear it's throat. I pulled the plugs, and they looked oily. So, threw in new plugs, but no change. As I pondered my next analytical step, for some reason I opened the thermostat housing - and found what you see below. So, I believe this is "cottage cheese", formed by the combo of oil and coolant. And yes, my coolant is green. Assuming it is, pulling the head seems like the appropriate next step? And hopefully just a head gasket replacement. Thoughts and opinions welcome. Thanks.

You know what they say. A watched battery never charges.

So, pretty much like a Seven.

I added a rear ARB to my '98 probably 10 years ago, so much of the install is a bit hazy. But....I thought I remembered that there was a circlip on the droplink that you could remove and the droplink would come away from the mount (either to the ARB or the rear axle). It was a fast way to remove the ARB when it rained at a trackday. I just found photos from when I installed it, and it shows the circlip. I think if you remove the drop link that way, you may find you can get a wrench on it. You can also see the flats on the bodies of the droplink.

From the write up, it sounds like the clam shells were made for the wide track front suspension, which I don’t think the originals (like I have) support/fit. Wonder what 14” Avon tires they are using? In general, tire selection in 14” is not the best.

Removed duplicate entry to post above.

Yes, you should be able to access the tunnel by removing the center arm rest. I removed mine to repair the covering, which had come unglued. As I remember it just pulled off (I don’t have carpet on my tunnel walls), and I only had to remove the gearshift knob.

Came across this today. Enjoyable read. Don’t think the author is a member of USA7s? http://www.lotuscorps.org/wp/how-to-build-a-caterham-seven-in-38496-easy-steps/ Steve

Mike - We were in Peru 4 weeks ago. Great dinner (and Pisco Sours) at Maido. And Chicharron sandwiches (pork and sweet potato) at La Lucha Sangucheria. And ceviche pretty much anywhere. Staying in Lima, or plans to get around a bit? Machu Picchu? Nazca lines? Steve

Rocky Mountain used to have Caterham add individually ordered items to the crates for the car delivery to save shipping costs for their customers. Basically, it meant shipping from the UK was free, then you would pay for shipping from Denver. Worked well when you weren't in a hurry to get the item. Maybe something similar might be worked out with one of the dealers? Steve

Hmmm... according to this listing on Pegasus, the cork ends are better for dry sump engines. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=3576 As usual, I guess it depends on who you ask, and what their experience has been. Steve

And FWIW, the wet sump Crossflow in my Seven also leaked like crazy when I purchased the car. Since I had the engine rebuilt, it's been dry as a bone. So, I think you can get these sealed up. Steve

The dry sump crossflow in my Mallock leaks like a sieve. I pulled the engine to replace the sump gasket, but it didn't really help. I think it was a combination of my skill (or lack thereof) and using a cork gasket. It has a steel pan, and I've purchased a competition sump gasket set from Burton, which I'm hoping will help. https://www.burtonpower.com/competition-sump-gasket-set-ford-x-flow-ohv-kent-711m-bda-fp713kc.html I've also had an issue with the sump pan bolts loosening up, so I check/tighten them up between sessions. I think for some or all of the aluminum sumps, it's suggested that you only use silicone gasket, like "The Right Stuff". The distributor is also a potential leak spot. Steve

This was likely posted previously, but was new to me so thought I’d share. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a19436721/analog-cars-are-more-meaningful-in-the-digital-era/

Vlad- it actually was an XC60, but also had a tow capacity of 3300. My trailer is a Montrose, and weighs 1700. My Seven is 1200, so I was under. The Volvo had no issues towing it, and usually averaged around 12-13 mp. And that was averaging 75+mph. I used (still do) a Tekonsha wireless brake controller. The Volvo wasn’t set up to connect a brake controller, and I’d read horror stories of owners who had their wiring systems hacked into causing all kinds of issues with the car’s computer systems. I now have a Grand Cherokee with a 5000 lb. tow rating. In some ways, though, I think the Volvo did a better job towing. Although I love my Jeep. If I find a pic with the Volvo and trailer I’ll post it. Steve

Andy- it sure looks to me like you have both a front and rear ARB. My ‘98 did not have a rear ARB, and I installed what I see in your picture. The bar in front of your upper wishbone is the front ARB. Steve

I’m set for accommodations (staying at the track again), but that’s about it. Plan is to take care of mechanicals this week. Try the new cooling arrangement again, new brake fluid, check brake pads (have an extra set front and back), figure out why Mike’s Brooklands don’t fit, install new 6 point harness. Easy, right? The following week is for polishing. Steve

You were probably planning on this anyway, but bringing a Lotus 7 book, or something similar, to the registration to prove they never had bumpers might be a good idea. Steve

Tom - you can also add me to the list. One last chance to solve my coolant issue! Steve

My Caterham has these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=756 Steve

Thought some might find these helpful: https://www.windingroad.com/articles/blogs/speed-secrets-free-track-maps/?utm_source=Winding+Road+Weekly+Email+List&utm_campaign=0619abed03-WR_Racing_News_10_10_2018_COPY_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_f40212f51a-0619abed03-58079997&mc_cid=0619abed03&mc_eid=f194e8c735 Steve

Have my 65th next year, and combining a track day or two with a trip to Europe was near the top of my list. Seems like BaT would be the easiest, as you're only dealing with one company. Steve

Maybe contact Stewart and find out where he got the tank? Then you can be sure what size fitting to get, and eliminate the guess work. I have a number of "spare" fittings from trying to guess the correct size. Steve