sf4018

What happened?

I used the ZZR A64 this last weekend at Road Atlanta, they were very good in the wet. In the dry it takes 4-6 laps to get them to a good working temp but they lasted all weekend without much wear.

If the rears are 450F and the fluid can take up to 300F it could be the combination of solid rotor and high friction pads aren’t going to work together without bubbling up the fluid in the caliper a little. As the rear pads wear there will be more fluid in the caliper to overheat, so it’s possible it gets worse over time.

I use Millers Oils Racing Brake Fluid 300. It hasn’t boiled at all in 4 years. It has a boiling point of 310C.

This thread inspired to get one - it’s really good for the price, it’s weather proof, elastic around the edges and has straps to keep it secure…

This place seems to have a lot of choices for Sevens.... CATERHAM CAR COVERS - Cars Covers

On race weekends after unloading the car I cover the car with a plastic tarp from Home Depot, which has a bunch of grommets which I use to tie down to the car. $14.48 . It is ugly though.

@11Budlitecould you PM the immobilized removal instructions to me too please? Cheers! Simon

Just spent a week in Sonoma driving a Tesla rental, my first experience with an electric car. A few observations: 1. The Tesla is a great car, very well designed and simple. Lots of places to charge, including hotels. I really enjoyed driving it despite being a gear head. 2. There was a threat for rolling blackouts due to the heatwave, so there doesn’t seem to be enough capacity now even. 3. I was expecting CA to be awash with electric cars, but it isn’t any more than any other southern city. Maybe 2-3% were electric on the road. ‘The concept and initial rollout is good, can it be afforded and used by 100% of the population, seems unlikely.

Agree with @KnifeySpoony, I’m 6’5” and have an SV with lowered floors. I can’t imagine a pedal box smaller than the SV for my susquatch feet.

When I built the suspension, it was with the car raised on jack stands, so if I’m reading you right the neutral position of the bushings is the car lifted by the chassis? Or am I supposed to loosen and then retighten the bolts holding the bushings while the car is down?

Question: When storing a car for say the winter is it better for the suspension to be unloaded?

The recovery sounded like a nightmare, but good to hear he’s back to full strength - I hope he’s not racing spec Miatas, those guys are nuts!

This is the closest pic I could find to yours, it's the hairpin at Barber. The gap between tire and fender on my RR is bigger than yours for sure, but I jacked up the rear ride height some after grounding out the lowered floors on some curbing, so I wouldn't say it's necessarily "correct" it's just good for me, just a frame of reference.

That looks like the left hander after roller coaster when the corner begins to load the car on the right side with some compression, so you’d expect to see something going on like that there. Did you find any marks where the rub happened?

The Caterham 4-point harness quick release has 5 ports, and the bottom point is unused as they supply. If the seat has an opening in the crotch area you can install the additional points after the build to make it a 6-point harness (6 points at the car, 5 points at the buckle)...Luke Crutch Strap - Double Red (europaspares.com). If you don't have a hole in the I'm not sure what the options are. I ran on track initially with a 4-point harness, it worked ok but I didn't feel it held my HANS device well as I couldn't pull down on the shoulder straps as hard as needed. So I converted to 6-point on Tillet seats. I guess an alternative is stick with the 4 point and go with a Hybrid Hans.

2.5V for #4 ECU pin would seem ok if the engine was running when you measured it. 12V on #2 ECU pin if the wiring is all good would suggest a bad COP or a short between the 12V wire and ECU signal in the connector, that's the only thing that can be sending 12V back down the signal wire. If you disconnect the COP in this scenario does the 12V go away?

Go to System / Maps and Settings, then you'll see a bunch of folders with the settings in them. There's one folder called "Cam Sensor Setup". Open a setting in that then it will ask you to select a device to view, double click on "Other ChipFile" then find the .ecc file on your PC. That’s just to view the ECC file. Dunno if you can read the settings from the locked ECU or not (I’m assuming you have the OBD2 to USB cable), but if not what’s on the ECC file should be what’s in the locked ECU.

I have an unlocked ECU from SBD motorsports, it's essentially identical to OEM except for the mapping which was tuned for the replacement fuel system I put in. You can dig around the setup by downloading this... 420R ECU Unlocked.ecc ...and reading into Easymap 6 software on your PC. According to this setup it looks like the rising and falling edge of the cam sensor is used.

Related question - online it says the standard plug gap for the Duratec 2.0 is 1.3mm but for race applications some people say reduce it to 1mm. For a CoP setup like this does it even matter as long as it works?

If he doesn't are they A24s 13/6 13/8?

No idea but if you do suspect it to be the ECU I have a spare Caterham 420 ECU (30L279A BOM Code 1.0) sitting on my shelf I can send to you.

A slight dampener might be the 15,000 entry fee.

Jake, No doubt you do but just in case do you have the 2015c build guide? There are a bunch of wiring diagrams in the back. Caterham 7 Assembly Guide - Duratec / 270, 360, 420 and Academy - Edition 02.2015 - Build & User Guides - USA7s I have a 420R but I'm not sure which connector that one is to take a picture of. Simon