SENC

🤣🤣🤣

@chuet - that is an S3 body style, not an S4 body style. No, the unit number on the chassis plate and frame number would not be the same - they were individually numbered (at least during the Lotus run). If the chassis/unit number is later than 2649, it would likely be an S3 made by Caterham or a replica that got fitted with Lotus badges (not unusual). Someone else here may recognize some of the bits in the picture and be able to help - but the rear lights, dashboard, and position of the gas filler all suggest to me it was either not built by Lotus or was changed later. To your S4 question, there were few than 700 built I think - so the Lotus numbering would end in the 3300s, I think.

Chris - are you going to LOG in West Virginia this Fall?

Later S2s and S3s were built at Hethel/Norwich. I would expect the frame number to be stamped on the frame near the master cylinder mount (assuming right hand drive). Post some pictures of the car and we may be able to help with ID, but the best way to be certain is to reach out to John Watson with the details of the car that you know. You can find his contact information at the Lotus Seven Registry website.

And here I've been thinking traction control and launch control was a function of the right foot! Cool stuff, thanks for sharing!

If it won't fit, it won't work for you - but don't let the wheels off bit turn you off... that just requires a bit of blocking. I use my floor jack, sometimes with an extra block if I need more height, to lift then block across the span.

https://www.shoppok.com/sanmarcos/a,43,199518,Kwik-Lift----600--San-Marcos-.htm

Will try to grab some better pictures. but here are 2 I have on this computer that will give you an idea...

I have the kwik-lift and am very happy with it - my Seven lives on it. Just drive up then lift the ramp with my jack.

Rob - if you're thinking the odds are you'll have to replace, you have nothing to lose and a great learning opportunity. Part of the beauty of these cars is their relative simplicity, and what a great chance to learn how to fully disassemble without any real risk of breaking anything or not getting it back together. It seems the worst case scenario is you learn all the bits and parts - best case is you learn how to rebuild yourself and save the cost of a new engine! I pulled my first engine myself (69 Elan) 5 years ago for the purpose of rebuilding my gearbox - also a first. That gave me the confidence to pull my Seven engine and gearbox to investigate and ultimately rebuild both. Since I'd never done a leakdown test much less rebuilt an engine, I found a local mechanic with experience in vintage race cars and hired him to come over a few evenings to help me test and with disassembly and for guidance on reassembly. It may have cost me a few hundred bucks for 5-6 hours of time over a few months - and the education I got was worth much more. I'm a lo g way from having any real expertise, but now comfortable enough to do a lot more on my Seven and Elan than I'd have ever guessed I'd be. What do you have to lose?

in the UK... https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1961-lotus-super-seven

@bugman - I'm in Wilmington - will have to connect when you find one! I don't know of any right now, but will keep my ears open. You might check @SevenAmerica as he often hears through his simplesevens site or the old lotusseven listserve.

Mick at XtraSpecialSevens can make seats for you - he does a great job. He may have the grille, too.

I like seeing the gallery getting populated. I don't know what our system here will support, but I've liked that the lotuselan.net forum I frequent places all thread photos into a common gallery. I enjoy paging through, but the real value is being able to filter... so if I'm looking for pictures of gearboxes, for example, that is pretty easy to do and quite useful.

lots of fun debate on the grease v oil in the trunnion debate on lotuselan.net... I find myself in the grease camp, but don't think you can really go wrong if you're checking/maintaining regularly

@SevenAmerica is likely to know the answer if anyone does

As John said, it appears to be a finer thread pitch than the 1/2-20. You should be able to calculate tpi with measurements - and if you can measure the angle of the thread event better as there are several resources for identifying fittings with this information. www.britishfasteners.com is one I use. British Standard Brass is 1/2-26, so that is a possibility if this is an original Serck fuel tank.

Beautiful pictures, thank you for sharing!

No relation, but if you've been looking for one... https://www.ebay.com/itm/334282307330?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l3160&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=a5b2a2d88edf4e51b516ca5841a05e95&bu=44278349486&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20220108015309&segname=11021&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cut%3Dut%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid This is the same manual available in the download section.

Welcome, and looking forward to following this project along - I'm a fan of the S4s. The last one I looked at had the inset areas of the dash in black as Croc described, and it looked great.

Finished 2021 with a beautiful day for a drive - hope this is a good omen for a better 2022! Tha ks to all here for a great forum, and Happy New Year wishes to all!

Blessed with spectacular 70° weather allowed a couple drives this weekend, after changing the 79°-30' butterflies for 78° butterflies, on Keith Franck's advice. This effectively moved the 1st progression holes downstream by .5mm, which made all the difference in the world in the transition, eliminating the popping on decel while maintaining a nice idle. I have a little more tweaking to do, but think I'm getting very close to finding the right balance now. My 20 y-o daughter, home from college, got her first ride in it - all smiles and giggles as we accelerated through curves! I'm not embarrassed to admit to giggling every time I drive it, too!

Congratulations, and excellent choice (I'm a bit biased towards 65 7s :).