Anker

Where do you get the fan switches. Mine is also 190 degrees, and that's too high. I don't mind purchasing both a 180 and a 160 degree. I suspect 180 is fine. Anker

I don't believe the sensor is the problem. The real problem is the piddly fan that I had on my crossflow before replacing it with a modern one. It was behind the radiator, small diameter and a huge gap between the fan and the radiator. It was pretty useless at pulling air through the radiator with the car sitting still. My new fan sits in front of the radiator, has a shroud that prevents the air from leaking sideways around the radiator, had a bigger diameter, but uses the same relay to turn on and off. It turns on a little under 200 degrees and turns off when the temperature falls to about 185. Works like a charm.

It definitely sounds like the master cylinder seal is gone and that fluid is squirting past the piston when you press the clutch pedal.

Of course he will say that they were vandalizing our cars to protect us!

What a ridiculous explanation. In every case where someone has run into a protest crowd they didn't park the car first and later jump into it and drive it into the crowd! Those attacks are done in blind rage by idiots who are mad because the crowd inconveniences them and promote a viewpoint they don't agree with.

With most of the mechanical work out of the way, time to start polishing. It will take several session to get a good shine, but it will get there. A lot of the metal is quite sandblasted. Later in thwe afternoon I replaced the windshield washer. The pump was dead.

:hurray:

No, I haven't. I'll post when I have driven them at the next autocross. Anker

I finished most of the service of SUPER7 today. Yesterday I bled the clutch slave cylinder and the brakes, and today I injected gear oil into the trunions. There was a small blob of grease on the nipple, so someone has put grease to it - shame on whoever did it. Another item added to the winter list: clean out the grease and oil the trunions properly. Next I changed the oil. Got the wheels back on, checked the pressures and took off for Harbor freight. Car ran great. My Harbor Freight run was to get a discounted tool creeper. I have been putting tools on the floor and keep misplacing them. The tool creeper will be where tools go from now on. At HF I ended up buying a ton of other stuff. A polisher and supplies to get the aluminum and paint up to a shine, a set of SAE sockets and spanners (all of our other cars that I maintain are metric), plus sundry other items. A run to pick up a $13 item ended up costing me close to $250. Why does that happen all the time? I really enjoy the attention the Caterham gets from other drivers. Drivers blow their horns and wave, kids stare, and pedestrians stop and look when it is parked. My two Boxsters also get attention, but nothing like this/ Yesterday I also ordered a set of Toyo R888Rs from Tire Rack for the 13" minilites that I will be autocrossing on. They should come in in a few days, and by then I'll almost be ready to do some autocrossing. Two things I have to work on first first. There is not a lot of clutch pedal travel and it sits much lower than the brake pedal. It also grabs almost immediately. The other is to build a rollbar-mounted carrier for the minilites. I can't drive to the course with them mounted, the car sits so low that I am afraid it will bottom out if I hit a bump or a pothole. I also hate the way the loose ends of the harness straps flap around. I'll fashion something to hold them.

I agree, the fitting looks like it is made for a connector with tabs that lock into the holes.

Also, check that all connectors on the alternator are plugged fully in and tight!

They don't leak on mine! I do religiously out the dust caps on every time I disconnect them.

Works like a champ. I can roll everywhere under the car. Checked the clutch slave cylinder. A ton of play. I bet it hasn't been adjusted in years. I am also going to drill a hole in the foot well so I can get at the transmission fill plug.

It went for $16K

The most interesting is the later post where he says that this car was built after he left and they screwed up the design. I would have thought bidding come to a grinding halt, but that didn't happen. The lack of response is probably because his accusations are true.

Great to hear from you, James! Stay safe, from the virus and on the road and track!

Even on the track you have to consider the time lost shifting vs time lost staying in a lower gear!

Looks to me like a Helicoil that was inserted by some dum-dum who didn't know that you have to put it into a threaded hole. He just shoved it up a drilled hole.

Yes, it is the Lucas with the Lucas electronic ignition module. I can get about 10 degrees and it still spits out the carbs. Before I worked on the carbs and distributor I had it at 12 degrees and it was happy there with no spitting and a smooth idle.

That's the one I have. The exact same! Anker

Solved! It turned out not to be a grounding problem. By tracing all connections to and from the horn and the indicators/emergency flasher I found that the only common point on the power side was a connector on the alternator. Cheking that I found that it was loose and needed to be pushed fully in. Another connector was also loose and needs a pinch to have it go on tight. The previous owner had lived with this problem for a long time and no one had been able to fix it. On to the next issue. I have to get the distributor out and move it a tooth so I have the full range of advancement. Is it possible to get it out without removing the carbs? If not, it looks like I have to drain some coolant because the heater return hose goes to the intake manifold and I am not at all excited to take the carbs off the manifold again. It was hard work to get them on and the manifold nuts tightened just the right amount. So if I have to I'll remove them with the manifold. Electrical problems are the worst! Phew/Anker

I'll have to remove the air filters to get a better view of how it is fastened to the carbs. The bracket is a tube on my car.

I'll check that, thanks. The one in the engine compartment was on the oil cooler bracket. Really hard to see! Jonathan from Lotus7.club has been helping out. Still haven't isolated the problem and suspect that it isn't a grounding problem, but something else.

I have a really crazy electrical problem. When I turn the key to the run position and test the horn, emergency blinker and turn signals they work like a charm. If I start the car they will stop working after a while. Since the horn is on a different relay than the blink relay used by the emergency blinker and turn indicator it must be either an electrical supply problem or a grounding problem. When it is close to failure the horn and flashers will work intermittently and I can hear the relays buzzing instead of clicking. When they fail there is no sound from the relays. Strangely the head light switch works fine all the time and I can switch between high and low beams with no problem. My problem is that I can't find the chassis grounding point for the instrument panel. Will appreciate if someone can tell me where it is. The car is a 1987 1700 Supersprint. It is a mix of a pre-1988 and post-1988 1700. Thanks/Anker

You will also need the adapter that connects the two butterfly valves and also have an adjustment screw for balancing the carbs. It allows you to control the two carbs with a single throttle cable. I am sure you can manufacture a bracket yourself if you have reasonable metal working skills. You may already have that.