Mondo

I recently bought a Pyrotect helment in that price range. I wanted the aero-ductbill but it doesn't come in black http://www.pyrotect.com/product.php?productid=46&cat=14&page=1

I'm sure Loren will chime in soon. He told me the rear needs to be pretty soft and squat down a bit. He recommended 250-275lb springs He likes it a little stiff and has 525lbs up front (probably best for track). I had a similar problem with it being tail happy after getting it corner-weighted (mine came in at 1450lbs with 3/4 tank). Plus I had 350lbs springs on all four corners (probably same QA1 shocks too). I thought it might be that the rear was so low, it didn't seem to have much travel and felt like it bounced around. I raised the spring collar 3/4 on all shocks and now I have understeer. Probably should of took measurements of the chassis and raised it the same on all corners. Anyway, I think I like a little understeer at the limit. Now I've put 450/250 and it's a lot more neutral (with worn out Falkens). I'm going to go with some NTs but I think I'm going to reduce the rear tire size from 275 to 255s (225s up front). I need to get it corner-weighted, with me in it, again.. Bottom line- go with softer rear springs http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/drag-and-street/springs/1-875-in-i-d-coil-springs.html

On a track, I'd be scared to wreck it as the car insurance company wouldn't pay for it. Now if your paying cash... I think doing one of those "fastest mile" type events would be cool with 650HP.

Congrats! Keep us up to date on the progress (everyone loves pics).

I think I had the easiest brake/light inspection from what I hear. The guy stood in front; headlights=check, blinkers=check, horn=check... to the rear; brake lights=check, blinkers=check. Here's your paperwork. Ten minutes total.

Went to the DMV in the nearby small town of Shafter. They were great. Bakersfield's big DMV didn't seem to want to be bothered, told me things that weren't correct... even after showing them what others had done (internet). Everyone has a bad day, but it's definately worth shopping around DMVs, especially if referenced by another peer.

"Don't trust Snopes.." now that's funny. I assume your joker emoticon means you jest. It's sad how many people will believe emails sent from strangers over sites that try to find the truth like 'urban legends, factcheck" etc... It's a new way of polarizing the country even more. Whatever you believe in, there's BS to support your view. Some even believe it's fun to drive little/light cars with cycle fenders;)

Thanks John! Boy you have a lot of stuff under that "hump". You have given me an idea of adding a buldge, similar to the bottom half of a litre bottle at the front of mine to handle the electric peddle assembly rod. Still have to figure something out for my brake & clutch hoses and throttle cable that come into the right side of hump. I think your radiator is at a different angle and position than mine. I have a lot more room between radiator and bonnet. Since I don't have an overheating problem, more air moving around in there is probably better for now. Thanks again for the pics

Emailed you Loren... after looking at the registration, don't think it will help much (don't have pink slip handy)

Don't mean to hijack thread (though we are talking about footwells too); John, you have floor mounted pedals so it looks like your footwell black box just needs sealing around the bottom of it. What did you do for the throttle cable and are there any other wires/tubes penetrating the black box? I do have a vent similar to yours on the driver's side but it's not nearly enough. Perhaps you can start another thread for S2K heat abatement... I'd like to see pics around the radiator. I still don't see how it seals between the radiator and the hood itself. Plus the other side of the black footwell box. Thanks

Loren, When do you expect your motor to be done.. and driving?

Hey John, I checked your pics but didnt see one in regards to sealing the front so air came thru the radiator. Maybe you can post some pics. My car doesn't overheat, even in the hot Central Valley. But I do. I haven't figured out a way to seal the driver's footwell box... especially since I have an electrical pedal assembly that moves a rod forward/backward thru the front of the box. I was thinking of an opening at the rear of the hood bulge... or a couple vents on the flat portions of the hood (to the sides/rear of bulge) to let the hot air out. The pressure coming into the footwell leads me to believe the air would be forced out of these types of vents. Or do you think they have to be closer to the front, like Westfield's one piece hood.

I need more of it

Too be honest, I can't afford anything that is close to the 7 in performance. What's "visceral" to some is "wind in the ears/face, hot/cold, loud, clunky etc.." I'd love to have a Noble, Ultima, RCR Superlite Coupe... with A/C, but no cupholders;)

When he goes down that straight it reminds me of my ride with 7evin... never gone that quick/fast in my life! The accelleration in the upper gears was unbelievable. That guy in video (and 7evin) must have a hard time walking with those sets of balls.

Got it... you should have a reply

Went to the gas station & then for ice cream this evening.... kept thinking about this accident as it was kind of crowded out there.

GT40 with the Gulf Racing flares is probably my all time favorite car... I would need the "Gurney Bubble" though

Might be something to it....

That was great!

Man, I asked about this a while back... didn't think it was that bad;(

I take it the larger size helps with the back... now you'll just have to worry about your neck when you mash the throttle.

Sometimes I have to pull the rubber vapor recovery ring up to activate the pump while having the fuel nozzle in only a bit... hope the air pollution police don't catch me;)