IamScotticus

Very appreciated. I have an S2 for this. As well as filling in a data point to feed the AI knowledge mass aggregation.

Henry, did you happen to record any part numbers or OEM car source for this fan and motor?

I have one as well to putnon my build. Just wondering if I need to be concerned..

Please be careful on Thief Book. More interested if Motorsport Composites was a good reference? I try to send them business but I don't hear much feedback on the experience.

Ok. I guess it's not any of our business. Happy to help.

Are you referring to the cog pulley or the reduced steel V belt? Or both? I can see underdrive being a charging problem.

Thackeray. We wouldn't want you to get any of those counterfeit Thackerys. Not as good a Thackerays.

Put in the 55F8s and see what you get. You got a WBAFR so you would catch an over lean before any damage is done

Any luck?

Henry, which muffler is that?

Without knowing what engine you are running, The S2s if Ford, were a pre- Crossflow variety, with dual DCOE above the exhaust manifold and incorporting a swirl pot and not running a thermostat but a restrictor. To assist in cooling, you could change to the smaller diameter steel billet lower crankshaft pulley available from Burton, maybe from Pegasus. This will slow down the coolant flow which gets more dwell time heat conduction, give a small gain in performance, and not grenade. I have heard good things about RedLine Watter Wetter. With carbs, heat soak and vapor lock is often a problem. If they ate above the exhaust, a heat shield under the carbs is popular. If using a mechanical peel pump, use an insulating spacer. If you want to go through the trouble, having a non-passive pump on a timer that draws fuel through the carb supply and into the tank for a few minutes after shutdown will help with heat soak. Realize today's fuels made for injection evaporate more easily than the fuel these carbs were designed to run with. A good quality of today's fuel is it doesn't varnish as badly.

I recently emailed them for clarification on that. No reply yet.

Europa, Elan, are like 7s with a roof. Still in the company of the best handling cars, ever.

You polishd the he'll out of that car!

From Wava Jan 2025: Hi Scott, We have three different versions of a Lotus nose -- The 7 Series LS-II, DSK7 and the Caterham CS3. We have two versions of the front fenders -- The LS-II and 7/CS3. They are quite similar to each other, with only subtle differences. For rear fenders, we have either 9.5" wide or 11" wide. The 9.5" are universal. We have two different 11", which are very similar to each other. One is designated as CS3, the other as 7/DSK. I am told that the CS3 parts were for a special version developed by Carroll Shelby. If you would like to see the slight differences between the different fenders, let me know and I will dig out some pics. Noses are $*** in fiberglass, $*** in kevlar. Front or rear fenders are $*** each in fiberglass, $*** in kevlar. Carbon parts are also available upon request. Thanks, Wava Utt Motorsport Composites 2133 County Road W Grafton, WI 53024 262-375-1930 You could get these from USA caterham dealers and specialists. Cost for a OEM with shipping is comparable to MC's, If a dealer is getting a crate from Cat you could ride along.

Howdies from Houston. It's horrible here. Too hot. Too many trucks. Dont drive a 7 here. Just keep one in the garage as an eternal project and dream of cool windy perfect roads somewhere else.

Nice paint job

Those are nice. Have a manufacturer?

Not mine. I thought I was the first. S4s are growing on me...I'll go stand in the corner now

Sweet green S4 on BAT https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-lotus-super-seven/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Model_Update

Its got $10k of fresh Ivey engine in there....

Back plate photo please... All adjustments will be there if any. Normally an adjuster will be on the place of one of those cylinders. But fronts have different requirements than rears.

My notes on LA alternatives contributed by posters over the years: 1985 Corolla GTS "AE86"(4.25) Rear Wheel Drive Corolla GTI, which is known as the "AE86" by all of the Toyota buffs. RX-7 GSL (4.25) If you looking to keep originality I understand, but if you want a good light strong axle look to the early RX-7. If you get the GSL-SE model they come with disk brakes and a LSD. * a caution on LSD, just because there is a plate LSD is not a reason to pursue it. The ramp angles are tuned for the original application which is a much heavier car. I was advised by Arnie Webb that 7s like 0° exit ramp because we come off the the throttle si quickly. In most cases, an open diff is adequate. I could be wrong. MV8: You might consider an axle conversion to an equivalent that came with a 4.30 ratio (maximium), like the Toyota 10 bolt 6.7" ring gear axle used in dwarf cars, just not severely shortened on the right side. For a used axle, look at 82 and older corona, 84-87 corolla GTS, 74-79 SR5, 71-85 celica ST and GT. I expect there are parts available for these for racing. They came with either two or four spider gears and an open or limited slip. A Ford 8 inch is a common axle here that is built like the famous ford 9 inch only smaller and lighter. I think it was used in the H&S Seven. Birkin factory in South Africa that the rear axle was a newly manufactured unit as used in a Toyota Hilux minivan manufactured and sold in South Africa. The only ratios I have ever known of for those rear ends were the two that came in solid axle Birkins. 4.11:1 until early/mid 2000, then 3.89:1. My kit landed in the US in September of 2000, and it has a 3.89 I have heard some mentions of Datsun B series axles, but good luck finding those. I may update this post later wirh more info.

We don't actually know what brakes you have?? Front or rear. Girling Type 14LF up front? Uprated? Sierra rear? I couldn't lock my T14s either. I attributed to possibly being stock Triumph Spit pads, which would be horrible.

Hey, guess what I did when I put a U-lock through the rear wheel of my motorcycle???